It is a custom word constructed from the French word for "browning", there's nothing you could literally translate here.Fun fact: The German term for "blueing" is literally translated "browning".
If I remember correctly, browning was a method used to protect steel prior to bluing becoming a common thing. (I just checked, and it is even mentioned on the linked Wikipedia page.) I wonder if that might be related to what you said.Fun fact: The German term for "blueing" is literally translated "browning".
It gets neither blue nor brown but more or less black...
That is a few other things...one of which I accidentally stumbled upon while looking at boots (no, I don't mean merely polishing boots, although that is part of it...)so you'd prefer we call it "blacking" ?
Due to your phrasing I am not really sure I am understanding you correctly. I have quite a few anodized things that are all scraped up. The raw aluminum underneath shines through, and they look bad imo. For some of those I have sanded the rest of the color off. I have one that is anodized but still retains the original aluminum color, and after after several years in my pocket with keys and other things scratching it up it still looks decent. The scratches aren't noticeable unless I am looking for them.If you manage to scratch off the anodization on aluminium, I should think that puts the amount of wear up to the levels the case would withstand anyway?
If the shoulder buttons will be black it might look decent regardless of the main color (like a tuxedo when paired with white, which penguins kinda look like they are wearing, which is the Linux mascot), assuming it isn't all scratched to hell.Black anodization would go well with many colours, especially dark ones. Its about the positive space, white on black just means more contrast.
I still would like a very dark grey instead of black as the conservative color, and I think the plate will look better silvery instead of black. If ED goes with black for the logo plate I hope I am wrong, or my preference changes. I can always make my own plate out of uncolored aluminum (or copper) easier than the average person can anodize their own aluminum black, so if there is no price difference, and ED is willing to go for black, it might be the better option of that is what most people want. I think both are neutral enough that they could work for a wide range of plastic colors (with black possibly looking like it belongs more with the black buttons just below it). Because of that I think we need to see both main colors with the plate...which requires a decision.i think we're still getting a little ahead of ourselves. until we get the black case, and see it with the logo plate, i don't think we can make an informed opinion about it...
I can tell you, from repeated first hand experience, it doesn't. Normal pocket stuff well scrape it up pretty quickly. The only reason this won't happen with the Pyra is that it is unlikely to be put in a pocket with other things, although a stray coin could still do it. If you have it in a cargo pocket with other things, or @matzesu's buttons, it will probably also get scratched up.Anodized aluminium has a really hard surface.
It needs a diamond or carbide tool (or extreme force) to damage the surface.
The anodising needs to be thick enough to be scratch resistant.I can tell you, from repeated first hand experience, it doesn't. Normal pocket stuff well scrape it up pretty quickly. The only reason this won't happen with the Pyra is that it is unlikely to be put in a pocket with other things, although a stray coin could still do it. If you have it in a cargo pocket with other things, or @matzesu's buttons, it will probably also get scratched up.
i think
i don't think
That is probably true. On one of the things I decided to sand of the anodized layer there are a couple spots where I barely did anything to it, so I just left those. If the whole thing had been like that it probably wouldn't have been scratched to begin with. Cheaper consumer level things seem to be the worst. While the thing that isn't colored is far less scratched up than the other things, it its still scratched, but only on a few edges/corners. I don't know what caused them, or how different, or more noticeable, it would have been if I went for red, blue, black, or one of the other colors (I was trying to avoid noticeable scratches since I knew it would live in my pocket for years, if not the rest of my life).The anodising needs to be thick enough to be scratch resistant.
I didn't managed to scratch my anodised parts within normal usage.
In the post it is quite decisive, and I appreciate the acknowledgement that they are merely (well informed and thought out) opinions.Make up your mind, ible!
Well The logo on the back of the LCD lid is also acting as an indicator light. Personally I'm not really a big fan of the decided logo, but Stickers look cheap, I'd rather not have a sticker on it.Too bad the logo is part of the hardware.
I would have preferred it been discarded or painted decal on to save costs.
I would much rather the Pyra logo be a sticker sold at the Dragonbox store to help with revenue as in Join-the-cool-Pyra-Preorder-Patron-club
That said, logo looks fine to me, but I'm going to pollute my Pyra case with anime stickers cuz i enjoy dwebness
just a small word pun, no harm intended. And yes, the text and idea was solid and rational. It was mend like "to be or not to be". I am, therefore I think; that type of stuff. (Kung fu, not Kung fu - Kung Fu Pandor^H^Ha)In the post it is quite decisive, and I appreciate the acknowledgement that they are merely (well informed and thought out) opinions.
With Pandora parts... don't even try it... the paint gets removed. The scratch is permanent.Out of curiosity, did any of your parts spend much time in a pocket with coins and keys?