GamesCom Video and Remaining Tasks


Speaking of old, I can't locate the box thing that connects to the place on an old TV where the antenna was hooked up with screws. Since I don't think I ever knew what those were called I am having difficulty finding somewhere to buy a new one. I found some things online that are cylindrical and have a coax connector on one end with the little wire and things to stick under the screw coming out of the other. I can't even think of a way to describe what I am looking for to a store clerk and not have them point to cables. I guess I could show them a picture.


Same here. I keep it protected in the larger box ED shipped it to me in.

I think your looking for something like this ?
https://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl...qevx9_OAhUD-mMKHWVGDzkQxiAIAygB&iact=c&ictx=1
 
I believe the issue was that 4GB ram sticks (2x2GB dual channel) have not been tested (but should in theory work fine), whereas 2GB with just one of these ram sticks would run at half the bandwidth. but there are few enough 2GB orders that he might be able to use the old solution (4x512MB sticks).

there are four slots, i believe, though, so ED could offer a super premium 8GB pyra ;). (never been talked about.)

i may be misremembering things, though, so please correct me @EvilDragon and/or others.
https://pyra-handheld.com/boards/threads/colorful-week.77519/

I don't know either, and don't have time to check now. My memory is something like:
Due to pricing the plan was changed from 4x1GB to 2x2GB form another vendor. 2GB needs one more address line than 1GB, but Nikolaus was smart enough to have already routed it.
So they asked for 2GB chip samples, got them, give them to the PCB population factory, got them wrongly soldered, Nikolaus repaired the soldering and what was next was reprogramming
the MLO or something with the right timings. These things are tricky, and last week there were 6 prototypes with 2GB RAM ans one qith 4GB. This last one had to go to
someone who could get the timings right and then it could be tested.
 
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There must be 4 chips for full bandwidth.

The 4GB solution uses four dual-rank 512 MB chips. Dual rank in this case effectively meaning two memory chips in a single package with all address and data lines shared, but with separate chip select lines. Compare with single-sided v/ double-sided SIMM/DIMM, etc.
 
Gosh, the nostalgia. I remember having this hooked up to a C64 and a very bad screen - sold it alongside the system a few years ago.

Hehe i had a very good monitor for mine i was lucky.

With the thing i posted you still need some kind of modulator that take analog input and usually generated on ch 3 or ch 4. Wont work from RCA output from things like Raspberry Pi

Edit:
Needs Something like this
https://www.walmart.com/ip/RCA-CRF907-Compact-RF-Modulator/19415715
 
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For me it is a bit sad we end up with a 720p display because rotator chip can't handle more resolution, and now we aren't going to use/need that rotator chip, so we could have 1080p display.

I remember how initially Pyra was going tp have 1080p display. Even, if I remember correctly, both displays had like the same cost.
 
For me it is a bit sad we end up with a 720p display because rotator chip can't handle more resolution, and now we aren't going to use/need that rotator chip, so we could have 1080p display.

I remember how initially Pyra was going tp have 1080p display. Even, if I remember correctly, both displays had like the same cost.
There were more reasons why 1080p display was not chosen.
I wouldn't want more stress on the hardware (and less battery life) just to get more pixels I can't see on such a tiny device anyway.
Imho 1080p on a screen below 7'' doesn't make any sense whatsoever.

Did I get it right, that the HDMI-output allows 1080p?
 
1080p on a screen below 7'' doesn't make any sense whatsoever.

I don't really need 1080p on a device that I intend to use primarily emulating 480i displays. 720p should be more than enough, even with fancy effects (I like to emulate CRT curvature and scanlines as well).

It would just reduce the frames per second without much visible improvement.
 
super awesome. can't believe you guys have eyes that careful and focused to notice these sorts of things (DNI). thanks notaz!
Some prototype board I was once involved with had been examined by many pairs of eyes, yet all of them (including mine) managed to overlook that the RAS and CAS signals to the memory had been swapped.

Stuff like that just happens.

I believe the issue was that 4GB ram sticks (2x2GB dual channel) have not been tested (but should in theory work fine), whereas 2GB with just one of these ram sticks would run at half the bandwidth. but there are few enough 2GB orders that he might be able to use the old solution (4x512MB sticks).

there are four slots, i believe, though, so ED could offer a super premium 8GB pyra ;). (never been talked about.)
This is confused in so many ways...

(BTW, 8GB has actually been mentioned before, by me, although I was ducking and running at the same time ;P It would require different ram chips and probably be very expensive.)

Due to pricing the plan was changed from 4x1GB to 2x2GB form another vendor. 2GB needs one more address line than 1GB, but Nikolaus was smart enough to have already routed it.
This is already much closer to being correct

The 4GB solution uses four dual-rank 512 MB chips. Dual rank in this case effectively meaning two memory chips in a single package with all address and data lines shared, but with separate chip select lines. Compare with single-sided v/ double-sided SIMM/DIMM, etc.
You were so close to scoring a homerun! And then at the last moment you mentioned single- vs double-sided DIMMs... -.- (which is basically just motivated by what the manufacturer deemed a convenient PCB layout and says little if anything about the memory geometry)
 
I guess so. That is what some of the cylindrical thingies were called in the descriptions, and it sounded like I had found one that went in the right direction. I prefer to talk to someone and buy it locally than order one. Actually, I would rather just find my old one.

If you're talking about the things that let you feed coaxial cable into an old TV or spade lugs into a new TV, those are baluns, but eBay sellers also like the term "matching transformer". You can get any of those from China for as low as $1 US (or $1.33 CA in my case) on eBay. (with free shipping)

The simple way to make sure you're getting the right kind is to remember that they go on the TV end of the cable. (Or just take advantage of eBay's low prices and buy one of each)

However, if you're talking about plugging the RCA connector from a console into a TV, my understanding is that it's just your ordinary coax signal with a special connector so you can't plug things together incorrectly. Simple adapters like the Angry Video Game Nerd uses can be had on eBay for $1 US or less. (Again, with free shipping)

The main thing to keep in mind is whether you want the TV side to be an F-Type (NTSC/North America) or IEC/PAL (PAL/Europe) connector. I've included both in my example searches.

Finally, for the sake of completeness, here are the tools you need for various other circumstances:
  • Plugging RCA into a TV with only coaxial input: RF Modulator (~$20)
  • ...with only spade lugs: ...plus a Balun
  • Plugging RCA into a modern TV without lag: Enable game mode and spend $500 on the XRGB-Mini "FrameMeister" high-speed upscan converter to bypass the TV's internal one.
  • Sharing your PC's monitor and speakers without lag: RCA to line-in cable for audio (~$1) + either the FrameMeister or a $50-70 "RCA/S-Video to VGA" converter switchbox.
  • ...for RF inputs: ...plus an external TV tuner with RCA outputs
I have yet to find a TV tuner device with low-enough latency to play consoles in a window on my desktop.

There's also this site, which tells you how to get clean RGB output from any given console and this cable to feed any SCART RGB input into the FrameMeister. I suspect there's probably a cheap way to build an RGB-to-VGA converter cable if you can get that far and want to use a PC monitor.
 
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Well actually more than 1080p through HDMI it can do 2560x1600.
http://e2e.ti.com/support/omap/f/885/p/257340/901470

Has that ever been tested? :) Although the HDMI chapter indeed mentions 2560x1600p60 with reduced blanking in the tables of standard timings supported, most of the DSS chapter never mentions standard resolutions above 1080p (including for HDMI).

Some actual hardware limits I encountered in the docs suggest it may indeed work though, but with limitations:
  • Max configurable output size is 4096 x 4096 pixels.
  • Max size of the GFX layer (which supports no scaling) is 4096 x 4096.
  • For the VID1-VID3 layers max width is 2048 pixels both before and after scaling. Max height is still 4096. This width/height is in the display's native orientation, i.e. after applying rotation, if any. I've seen the TRM claim in some places the max input width of the scaler is actually 1920 pixels though.
  • The (x,y) coordinates for layer placement is limited to 0-2047.
The actual max bandwidth of outputs (due to max pixel clock) is also a major limiting factor, as evidence by the need to use reduced blanking for 2560x1600p60. Further increase in resolution would require frame rate reduction.
 
Has that ever been tested? :) Although the HDMI chapter indeed mentions 2560x1600p60 with reduced blanking in the tables of standard timings supported, most of the DSS chapter never mentions standard resolutions above 1080p (including for HDMI).
on my 24" LCD I've had it to 1920x1200 no problem...


Further increase in resolution would require frame rate reduction.
Yeah I can see that.
 
Speaking of old, I can't locate the box thing that connects to the place on an old TV where the antenna was hooked up with screws. Since I don't think I ever knew what those were called I am having difficulty finding somewhere to buy a new one. I found some things online that are cylindrical and have a coax connector on one end with the little wire and things to stick under the screw coming out of the other. I can't even think of a way to describe what I am looking for to a store clerk and not have them point to cables. I guess I could show them a picture.


Same here. I keep it protected in the larger box ED shipped it to me in.
That sounds familiar. "The place on an old TV where the antenna was hooked up with screws" brings up a memory of spade terminals, or ring terminals. They might also be known as spade lugs, (or ring lugs) and the wire end side of the connector would be called a spade connector. (or ring connector) Putting those names into a search engine ought bring up more names, if there are any.
 
That sounds familiar. "The place on an old TV where the antenna was hooked up with screws" brings up a memory of spade terminals, or ring terminals. They might also be known as spade lugs, (or ring lugs) and the wire end side of the connector would be called a spade connector. (or ring connector) Putting those names into a search engine ought bring up more names, if there are any.

You might want to check out the links I put in my own reply.

TL;DR:
  • NASA calls the wire-side screw connectors spade lug terminals.
  • The things which connect coax to spade lugs or vice-versa are called baluns or matching transformers
  • The switch things for plugging consoles in are called TV game switches, RF switches, and various other things... but it's generally much cheaper and easier to just get an RCA-to-coax adapter and an RCA male-to-male cable (~$1 each on eBay) like James Rolfe (AVGN) does.
 
I think your looking for something like this ?
Yes. The one I misplaced resembles that. The cylindrical ones I found are cheaper, though.


For me it is a bit sad we end up with a 720p display because rotator chip can't handle more resolution, and now we aren't going to use/need that rotator chip, so we could have 1080p display.

I remember how initially Pyra was going tp have 1080p display. Even, if I remember correctly, both displays had like the same cost.
If it becomes feasible later we can upgrade our displays, and that means each person can decide if they want the standard screen or the upgrade one.


However, if you're talking about plugging the RCA connector from a console into a TV, my understanding is that it's just your ordinary coax signal with a special connector so you can't plug things together incorrectly. Simple adapters like the Angry Video Game Nerd uses can be had on eBay for $1 US or less. (Again, with free shipping)
I plan on using it for old computers and consoles. For my consoles with the RCA connector I use an adapter to switch it to coax (I don't remember if that worked when I tested it with a different tv and a computer, but I think it did). It just sucks, as I had everything I needed, but misplaced one thing since I was using a more modern (and much larger) tv for the last 5 years. Since the picture is getting so bad on my other one, and I want to cut down on space (I no longer play split screen with other people, and I can just put the little old tv on a table and easily move it when needed). All of this could have been solved by purchasing a Trinitron tv, however that is even larger than the one I have been using (so I can't put it on the same tv stand where I have my consoles), it would cost $23, and it would be a headache to move on my own. Plus I like the wood grain and knobs look I grew up with.

Finally, for the sake of completeness, here are the tools you need for various other circumstances:
  • Plugging RCA into a TV with only coaxial input: RF Modulator (~$20)
  • ...with only spade lugs: ...plus a Balun
  • Plugging RCA into a modern TV without lag: Enable game mode and spend $500 on the XRGB-Mini "FrameMeister" high-speed upscan converter to bypass the TV's internal one.
  • Sharing your PC's monitor and speakers without lag: RCA to line-in cable for audio (~$1) + either the FrameMeister or a $50-70 "RCA/S-Video to VGA" converter switchbox.
  • ...for RF inputs: ...plus an external TV tuner with RCA outputs
I have yet to find a TV tuner device with low-enough latency to play consoles in a window on my desktop.

There's also this site, which tells you how to get clean RGB output from any given console and this cable to feed any SCART RGB input into the FrameMeister. I suspect there's probably a cheap way to build an RGB-to-VGA converter cable if you can get that far and want to use a PC monitor.
I have a couple rf modulators. As I said, I guess it is a balun that I need, I was just not familiar with that term before a week or so ago. I kinda doubt the store clerks would be familiar with that term, but it is worth a shot.

I have been interested in the FrameMeister and similar options (as can be seen in my occasional comments about them and abalone generators, etc.) for a couple years, however it would be cheaper for me to buy CRTs, and I have many options locally.

Thanks for the breakdown, not only for me, but anyone else that might run into difficulty tracking down everything they need.


That sounds familiar. "The place on an old TV where the antenna was hooked up with screws" brings up a memory of spade terminals, or ring terminals. They might also be known as spade lugs, (or ring lugs) and the wire end side of the connector would be called a spade connector. (or ring connector) Putting those names into a search engine ought bring up more names, if there are any.
I call them spade lugs, but I thought that was the wrong term, not that I remember saying it much even decades ago. It was some combination of terms using "spade lugs" "antenna" "coaxial" and "connector" that led me to the ones I found, but I had doubts since they didn't look like the ones I have used in the past. Thanks for the tips.


  • The switch things for plugging consoles in are called TV game switches
I think something like that was the original term I searched for the thing I had (I think it came with the Atari VCS/2600), however I don't think I had much luck finding any for sale at a low price.
 
That's however really not 2560x1600. :p That's... 1080p with a small flap stuck to its belly.

More like the one true resolution, because it allows you to achieve both 1080p movie playback and 1600x1200 gaming using only letter/pillar-boxing.

(Remember, 1600x1200 on a 21" CRT is the dream so many envied in the 90s and also the highest resolution classic 4:3 games might support.)
 
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