Back from the Dead!


I have a question. How difficult/what would be required to get the pyra to be a SATA device? For example, let's say I want to boot a computer from the pyra, using it as a HDD or Disk Drive by plugging it into a SATA port on the computer. Or maybe emulate a custom disk drive, such as one used in a video game console?
 
I cannot say why..but i like this Design :)
29865-35020bd626d20deb331a92ad65465013.jpg

Tanks for the Newspost ;)
 
I cannot say why..but i like this Design :)
29865-35020bd626d20deb331a92ad65465013.jpg

Tanks for the Newspost ;)

ED have to learn to close the camera iris.
Its horrible!!! Every picture is with that little sharp area. Thats not good for product pictures.

@ED: please try to take them with iris (Blende, du verstehst schon) over 10~14.
So the whole thing will be getting sharp.

Perfect would be to take the highest setting (maybe 22?), because you are not taking pictures from hand and with bad light.
ISO 100, Blende 22 = World happy
 
@ED: please try to take them with iris (Blende, du verstehst schon) over 10~14.
So the whole thing will be getting sharp.

That does not work on my kitchen table with only LED lighting with an older camera and without tripod, which is where I did take the picture (I was at home, not in my office)

Besides, that's only technically better, as you want to see the whole product - from an aesthetic point of view, having a nice depth-of-field is nice.

I also usually dislike pictures where everything is sharp, as that's unnatural (your eyes also have a depth-of-field), but yes, or showing a product, it makes sense.

But here the reason clearly is low light and older camera. I could've taken a grainy picture with a higher iris value, which would've made everything more blurry...
That's why I took two pictures.
 
ED have to learn to close the camera iris.
Its horrible!!! Every picture is with that little sharp area. Thats not good for product pictures.

@ED: please try to take them with iris (Blende, du verstehst schon) over 10~14.
So the whole thing will be getting sharp.

Perfect would be to take the highest setting (maybe 22?), because you are not taking pictures from hand and with bad light.
ISO 100, Blende 22 = World happy

Are you seriously complaining about how the picture is taken? *sigh*
 
If ED catered for everyone we wouldn't have any products, just pictures and ideas.. Which is why I ask!


*blinks* That's a good reason for ED to be selective as to what feedback he acts on, but it's not a good reason not to provide feedback, nor is it a good reason to discourage people from providing feedback.

-Neelix
 
That does not work on my kitchen table

Sketch some ideas for a device.

_sketch.jpg


Blender will show the final product.

_blender.jpg


Design a board.

_board.jpg


Put some chips on the board.

_chips.jpg


Then put everything in an oven.

_oven.jpg


A cooling system is required.

_fridge.jpg


No, no ... With a sink !

_sink.jpg


Fork some projects.
_fork.jpg


May our journey finally bring us to the finish line

_tlozalttp.png
 
My external SATA housing only uses one USB3 cable for data and power, and I currently have it plugged into a USB2 host port delivering (I assume) only 5V at some amps, and that seems to be able to power my full-sized 3.5" hard discs just fine. Maybe my USB2 PCI card actually supports USB power at higher voltages though, I dunno.
Nope. External housings have a step-up converter to generate 12VDC from VBus (5VDC). Almost all (normal) Desktop SATA HDDs have the rotor connected to 12VDC and the logic connected to 5VDC.
Afaik, eSATAp drives may be powered from 5VDC, so the cable shown above on page 1 *may* work for eSATAp drives, but will most likely not work for desktop HDDs
 
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Wait, does this mean I can connect a internal desktop harddrive into a pyra?
That's fucken sick!
Yes, but there is no way to directly power it from the pyra. There were some housings with eSATA + external PSU, no idea if they still exist.
 
Perfect would be to take the highest setting (maybe 22?), because you are not taking pictures from hand and with bad light.
ISO 100, Blende 22 = World happy
One of the rules of taking pictures is: Never ever go over apperature 8. The picture will get blurry due to light bending.
 
Nope. External housings have a step-up converter to generate 12VDC from VBus (5VDC). Almost all (normal) Desktop SATA HDDs have the rotor connected to 12VDC and the logic connected to 5VDC.
Fine, but USB2 without any USB power extensions limits the current to 500mA. Step that up to 12V and you're talking somewhere around 200mA to power the rotor, before you even consider the logic or the stepper motor. I have USB SSDs that need a Y cable to provide enough current, yet this thing runs off a single USB cable, which surprised me slightly.
 
It only provides regular SATA, you will likely need an external power supply which are fairly easy to get.

Honestly with a battery powered device I'd expect it's best to use externally powered drives even with USB3 drives.
 
One of the rules of taking pictures is: Never ever go over apperature 8. The picture will get blurry due to light bending.
True enough, for 35mm cameras. The aperture is expressed as a fraction in some notations e.g. f/8 - that's because the actual aperture is an eighth of the focal length. Small sensor cameras have shorter focal lengths to achieve the same field of view, so a compact camera will have a correspondingly smaller actual aperture, in millimeters (or whatever units you measured your focal length in), so sooner rather than later diffraction starts to affect your picture.

But given the DoF that ED got, I guess he was using a camera with quite a large sensor, so not going smaller than f/8 is probably a good idea. I forget how to calculate what will be acceptably in focus at what distance and what focal length, but using an old 50mm lens in my camera bag, the scale on it suggests at f/8 and focussing at 1m, you should get a good 40cm in focus.

And as ED explained, since he didn't have the light or a particularly sensitive sensor in his camera, he needed to open up the lens a bit more to let more light in, so took two shots which worked perfectly well to show me what the device looked like.
 
Not everyone is interested in one, I guess, but the SATA-Adaptor has mostly been finished
Wouldn't this design invite putting a lot of strain on the USB3 connector on the pyra due to its leverage? It could be avoided by giving the adapter a female USB3 B socket (normal or micro) and connect it via a cable, though it wouldn't make the overall assembly prettier I guess...

There's no direct JTAG connection on the Pyra PCBs (we didn't have enough space), but the SD-Card slot can be used for it!
All you need to do is boot a special kernel and use this simple SD-to-JTAG-Adaptor.
Dibs on one! :D Soldering the flatcable on will get a bit creative since the signals are not remotely in the right order (the first two signals on the cable are TMS and nTRST...) but it'll probably still be prettier than some of the other jtag cables I've made ;)

The SD card slot is actually even more versatile: Here is an overview I made of which functionality combinations are available (prettified from the TRM). Columns show modes of operation, rows are pins, and you can ignore the low-level info on the left.
 
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