The first picture shows them without the PCB. Really sturdy buttons should be really hard to break.
As you can see with the second picture, the plastic case will also stop the buttons before they can hurt the switches on the PCB.
That should make everything very robust as well.
This starts to look very good and maybe it really works. ^^ I hope this time, the tolerances of the molds will be good enough to make the buttons work better than the ones from the Pandora, which may also be well designed un theory but in practise they often did not fit right (my triggers needed a good bunch of paper inside to work at all).
That never was a problem with the case, but with the buttons used.
The buttons were not 100% accurate as they were surface mounted and thus were in a bit of different position on every PCB.
Since the ones we have use pegs going through the PCB, they are 100% in the same place on each PCB.
One critical point could be the pivot pin, it seems already be improved and supported to withstand the force of 2 buttons. maybe there is some space left on top of the pin to guide it in some groove for more durability.
That's not needed, with the surrounded plastic, you can't apply enough force to cause issues with the pin.
Also fell free to test if the vertical surface pattern of the upper trigger has good grip, maybe some horizontal "stripes" are better, I don't know. Maybe the upper trigger also needs to be shorter to avoid beeing pressed accidently. This stuff needs more actual testing for sure.
Yes, of course. That's something that can only be tested in real life
My Pandora hinge is very loose when fully opened full 180°, this needs to be improved on the Pandora. maybe some overall more tension that keeps the hinge open and closed? This way you could use the real hinge stop to fix the lid in 145° or whatever. Could be done by rotating the actual mechanism, somehow like that:
With enough friction the lid would srtay closed and opened, supported by some additional notch/peg lock mechanism, this would solve the old problem without getting in trouble with Nintendo patents.
Well, the lid doesn't open to 180°, it's something like 170° I think.
You can see the two pegs stopping it on the case with the keyboard.
I hope the sides of the case will be a little bit more rounded to hold it comfortably, the lower body still looks alot like the Pandora brick which caused some pain in my palms. But besides that, it seems to be a very usable case. And with better materials, it should even look better than the one from the Pandora.
Yes and no.
We'll round it as much as possible, but keep in mind that the keymat is there and you need a certain thickness of the case.
You can only round it up to a certain degree, as space is very little there.
2nd - the hinge, I respectfully would like to disagree. I personally think a friction hinge would be better all around, but I'm aware that there were problems with all the friction style hinges just being too big for the Pyra... Since it will use the same (the EXACT same? the Pandora one, I'd heard started to wear down and not lock into place very well?) hinge as in the Pandora I guess there won't be an 145°ish midway locking point like on nintendo DS, 3DS, etc... ?
What's wearing down on the Pandora isn't really the hinge, it's more the paint to the opposite side of the hinge.
The hinge is only designed to keep it fully opened / closed.
The fraction inbetween was there because Pandoras paint had a certain thickness, and that wears out.
To recreate that fraction without wearing it out as quickly, we're trying to redesign it the way I explained above.
The problem is, there's no real other solution available.
There's only one manufacturer for the hinge we're using, and that one doesn't offer them with multiple locking positions (except to Nintendo).
And all friction hinges I found are about twice to three times as big as we need it. I've spent about 1 month looking for one and talking to manufacturers.
So the only solution is: Keep the one we have so that the unit stays closed and open properly and add fraction with the case design for the middle positions.
If you take a closer look at the LCD, you can see that there are two dummy screw slots - that's because part of the display is below that area. That side will be clipped, whereas the other side will be screwed (same as the lower screw). We'll have bumpers in there so you can't see that. This way we can make the frame as small as possible, keep it sturdy with the screws and make sure we don't use too many clips.
I have a bad feeling about this one; its going to be hard to make the sides symmetric, with the different way the tension of clips and screws work, it will also feel different, probably the side w/o screws will feel soft and squaky, the other more firm. Furthermore, these bumpers don;t last very long (they usually fall out after some time). Could the screws that fix the LCD bezel go in from the side (or top) instead?
Why would the material feel different because there will be screws on one side and not at the other?
I've seen tons of battery covers that slide in at one side and are fixed with a screw at the other side.
Also, when using proper bumpers with good glue (3M?), it's very unlikely they fall out (unless you peel them out yourself).
The overall design looks good and catches the eye.
As ImmaculateChimp said, a friction hinge is a must. It is a huge step back to use the Pandora hinge design. It will simply start to wear down!
Especially for the users (like me) who will use Pyra as a smart phone replacement (It will replace my Note 3 for me)
A huge step back from what?
We never had a solution with a friction hinge. We tried to get one, but it's not possible at that size (maybe it's even to small to be produced).
That's why we're adding fraction ourself.
At least make it to lock at 145
° as Fusion_Power said.
As mentioned above, already done (but not at 145°, as that would not match with a proper holding / viewing angle.
what the hell EvilDragon? i thought we decided to get rid of the palm digging corner on the case when opened?
I think I mentioned months ago that this won't be reflected in the case design files as it will be done by a rounding tool after the mould has been done
What is the technical reason for having a doublespace there?
? Technical reason?
Also the lowered area where the nubs are, does that do anything?
They do the same as on the Pandora: They add some design to the case.
They weren't there at the beginning, but that looks ugly.
Knurling and negative space on the L/R look a little strange, then again i havent tried it.
The Pandora also has a small blob inwards, so you can actually feel where the button is.
But of course, tweaking needs to be done after they have been tried in real life.