Bacteria's Gp2X Mod - Project 1


All of the emulators work pretty dam good on the GP2X in fact better than the Wiz and Dingoo and the GP2X screen is still the best and thats why i am going to do this mod. :D
 
When I last played on the GP2x (ahem, 2006 or early 2007) SNES emulation was poor. From what I see on Gradius 3, it's full speed at 200mhz! Got more emulators on, however will test the same game in the same conditions for a comparision when do the 2nd PSP battery mod. I want to make this system the best I can.
 
Opened up the GP2x - I believe I can fix in a second PSP battery in the recess, to double the amperage and make the GP2x last longer on its playtime.

Also, fixed one small issue with the d-pad, you could press all four directions at the same time in error, not good in action/reflex games. Fixed it now so the d-pad works in the usual 4 directions and also diagonals, just as it should - you can't press 3 or 4 directions at the same time. This was achieved with a small bead behind the d-pad center, and some light dremelling of it, to work precisely. Aiming to hopefully rig the second battery up tomorrow morning.
 
Two things:

1) ...says someone with an avatar like
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2) have reported your comment to the Mods here, i'm not feeding a troll
 
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I've said nice things so far, don't get all heat over a little swear word.

Also, lrn2cavestory.

Edit: If you've got the cheek to divert users to your forums, I think I'm allowed to comment on the look of your site. Most people will agree with me, it's just ugly.
 
OTST - I have also linked this thread from my website (see "news" 7 May) to hopefully bring people here too. About 500 people a day visit my website, and around 300-500 visitors a day on my forum on average. I'll let the figures therefore speak for themselves as to if people like my sites, yes?? ;)


Update - installed second PSP battery and wired it up. It is a really tight fit but the case will close, just. Decided to give the case backing another respray to make it look lovely. Also decided rather than the "bland" edges and shoulder buttons to use the silver ones from the other GP2x I have, to give a black and silver contrast - looks nice.

Realistically, going to give the case 2-3 days to dry properly and cure. Was going to make a video clip of the last part (ie two PSP cells) however not a great deal to show so won't. Also, secured the battery compartment in place permanently as made a hole for the recharge jack instead.

When system is put together, once the extra paint job is dry, going to recharge the cells and try the acid test again, with Gradius 3 on the SNES at 200mhz.
 
GP2x is dried, looking lovely in its two tone colour scheme (silver and black). Closed the case up, barely but did close ok; booted up, fine. Had a far better game on Gradius 3 on the SNES than before – the d-pad works great.

So, two pics – one of finished system, and the other the GP2x logo i’ll be putting onto the back of the cover.

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Now I need to see how long it lasts with the two sets of PSP batteries installed. Whatever the result, is the best I can make it. Going to leave the GP2x on this afternoon on Gradius 3 on the SNES in demo mode (at 200mhz) and see how long it lasts.

When I know that, I can make a final video, including using the system, etc. Will probably need to edit a few bits out to keep it all under 10 minutes!
 

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Wow Bacteria thats looking sweet man. :) Looking forward to the video i am just waiting for my rubber topped tact switches to arrive so i can get on with doing this myself.
 
Nice. I like that silver-black contrast, elegant. But I don't recall (or simply don't know) about silver GP2X's, did you paint it? Just curious.

I hope the battery does hold up for around 5 hours, because the pair af AA's I'm using lasts me over four hours. That after fully charging, which takes about 22 hours <_< . How long did yours take?
 
I had a GP2x F100 which i've modded for this, and the silver was from the GP2x F200 model. The silver is not painted, the console was white and silver, the black F100 case was spray painted though.

I got 4 hours 10 mins. Probably doesn't help that Li-ions cut out at about 2.8v, so although the GP2x can work lower than that, the batteries can't. Fully charged, the Li-ions are 4.1v, work fine in the GP2x (using the solder points from the battery area).

I never got more than an hour or two if lucky on NiMH cells, with branded quality ones.

To recharge the Li-ions takes around a couple of hours, will time it tomorrow. Li-ions, unlike NiMH retain their charge too and don't drain current and voltage when not used; so there are benefits for using Li-ions.

My plan is to make the last video(s) clips tomorrow and compile them to upload them; hopefully the worklog and final video will all fit into one 10 minute video!

This project for me is a circle - I started modding on this site with my shoddy but working cardboard and tinfoil d-pad which looked pitiful in contrast; and now, doing the same project with a similar model of GP2x, only this time, "professional" and nice!
 
FINISHED project 1

Here is the link to my site: LINKY

YouTube video: (this is a step-by-step video guide too for d-pad modding and Li-ion battery modding a GP2x BTW)

Pic of system (silver and black finish):

final-pic.jpg


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D-pad modded; 4 hour 10 mins playtime on 200mhz game; 4 hours to recharge from flat.

I will sell this item, details and terms on *HERE* - this is a one off item BTW. If you wish to bid for the item, you'll need to register on the forum first to post.

I have put links on my website page (as above) to this forum BTW.
 

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I should have retained the one from the back of the d-pad, however as had filed it off, I hotglued a tiny plastic bead into place, and then very gently sanded down a bit here and a bit there with a sanding drum on a Dremel, until I had it "just right"; ie all 4 directions registered fine, and also the diagonals too; not too much, otherwise you could press for 3 or 4 at the same time. The result was a good pivot, which as you see in the Gradius 3 game demo, allowed all diagonals and the normal up, down, left, right easily.

One thing I did think of was having a circle for a d-pad instead of a cross - far easier to mount into a system and also easier to get diagonals of course, which is ideal, although there will be occasions where your finger strays a little off the 4 directions into the middle area and thereby can cause a diagonal as that will depress the d-pad in that way: just a small point - ie, keep your finger off the middle bit ideally. Larger d-pads don't have that issue.
 
Used a file to make the hole for the N-Gage D pad

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Followed Bacterias diagram

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Got 4 rubber topped tact switches from E bay and used a blob of hot glue for the center pivot

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Painted the D pad black put it all back together and it works perfect

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Thanks Bacteria
 

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My pleasure - I said it was a simple mod! :D I'm pleased someone is trying it out!

When you close the case up, experiment to gauge the tiny trimmings here and there you need to make to the shaft on the back of the d-pad so it pivots nicely on the rubber pads so you get diagonals and the directions too, easily. If you haven't got a pivot, hot glue a small plastic bead in place and Dremel it into the right shape, size and height for the job.
 
bacteria, seeing as you still have no bids on your forums, I suggest you use eBay instead.
 
Considered this a bit more, as I now have to use gloves to play with the console. The stick is killing my thumb without a cap. And I'm quite sick of the original stick anyway so not really interested in a new cap.

Decided to try this if I can get the right tools and some of my questions out of the way.

I thought about which d-pad to use, I first considered the Mega Drive D-pad as it's circular and really nice, but it looked a bit too big so I think I'm gonna go with the Game Boy Color one, it's quite small.

I have no dremel, and not really sure how to cut out the hole in the case. Also some of the plastic around the hole gets in the way for my d-pad. Hope you don't mind me borrowing your picture to show, can I safely remove these parts?
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Rubber contacts for the d-pad. I have none except for the rubber mat (picture found from google, NOT mine!) from the game boy color circuit board. But I can't solder on that so.. What to do?
 

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