The magnificent seven


DO-WANT_o_142046.jpg
 
Anyone else humming a certain Elmer Berstein composition at the moment?

Seriously, wonderful progress.
Do we need a box-art doodling thread somewhere. Community-designed packaging could be rather good. Then again, it could be an eye-watering monstrosity. Who knows?
 
Pyra feels much more real seeing that picture and reading what's left to-do.

Holiday 2017! (but whatever is reasonable is fine)
 
http://www.basterfield.com/pc110/brochures.htm

I've wanted an IBM PC110 for a long time without ever justifying to buy one due to how outdated they are. I'm quite happy with the look of the Pyra :D
/when Pyra will be a success and break sale records we'll ask ED really nice to custom manufacture a limited edition lid with a 4:3 screen individually numbered and signed :D.

EDIT: everyone who wanted a camera functionality with Pyra, look IBM had a solution ages ago (top left image, yellow background): http://www.basterfield.com/pc110/gif/ad-3.jpg
 
As 8th in line for a prototype preorder, 7 feels sad.
Yes, I know these are units going out to active devs with expectations for great and less tangible things to be created.

Well, the blue one combined you have 8 :D

But yeah, I'll assemble more, no worries. Some are for devs, some are for preorders.
You should receive an email this or next week :)

What is left to be able to power them on?

A bootable SD card :D
I only had an old one here which still used the rotator chip and the most recent one I had (the untested developer build) had some bug in U-Boot which shut it off immediately because it reported it can't find any memory :)
 
They are not clipped. If you disassemble the unit, they will simply fall out again.
Ah, okay. Is there something stopping them falling out and rattling around if you carry around your pyra in a bag or a case and accidentally put it down upside down? And I do sometimes turn my Pandora upside down when opened, to locate a USB device most commonly, which I can imagine doing more often with my Pyra more often with its initially unfamiliar ports on the back.
 
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Ah, okay. Is there something stopping them falling out and rattling around if you carry around your pyra in a bag or a case and accidentally put it down upside down? And I do sometimes turn my Pandora upside down when opened, to locate a USB device most commonly, which I can imagine doing more often with my Pyra more often with its initially unfamiliar ports on the back.

The inner disc is bigger than the hole and it sits perfectly in there.
 
The inner disc is bigger than the hole and it sits perfectly in there.

I'm still a bit confused on how the nubs attach. In the video I've seen you place them then turn them until they click, so there must be some sort of 'lock in' mechanism when connecting the nub plastic to the nub electronics?
 
I'm still a bit confused on how the nubs attach. In the video I've seen you place them then turn them until they click, so there must be some sort of 'lock in' mechanism when connecting the nub plastic to the nub electronics?

The nubs have a square hole that fits onto a square peg. They just need to be twisted until the peg and the hole align, and when they do that causes the click as the peg (spring loaded due to the nub click mechanism) gets pushed into place.

-Neelix
 
Great Update, it's indeed a bit weird that you assemble the Screen Part as a last step ,
But mybe, this way it's a lot easer and less dangerous for the Screen, as the other parts can get assembled whitout screen,
And whe all know, that the Screen is the Part on Pandora and Pyra which needs the most care to not break

It's pretty cool that you don't have to solder anymore
Maybe this way it's also not that hard for a User whit a bit Surprise Egg Experience to Change some parts by self..

I hope to have my Pyra on my Birthday 22.juli but mybe that's a bit too short away
 
wouldnt it be awesome if they were maglev?
I'd prefer a solid but well greased base than something that would need power and clash against the supports if you pressed it too hard.

However, it does seem the magnet in the plastic nub part is attracted to the metal in the hall effect sensor array on the PCB, judging by the way they click into place when properly aligned. Hence when you remove the PCB they should just drop out, I think.

One other question about the coated/coloured cases; it seems that it's the coating that carries the colour, and the base plastic is black, at least judging by the places on the inside where they didn't spray the coating. This isn't what we were promised, as I recall, where the base plastic would be the same colour as the outside. It may be okay if the tests you do prove it's almost impossible to file off, but I'd be surprised if that were the situation personally.

Edit: @matzesu The first thing to break on my Pandora was the power switch, and then the little copper vanes on the LCD connector on my mainboard. My screen never broke, but my Pandora is only fully usable when connected via a TV out connector to my TV.
 
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