Somewhere buried in the last news thread I've already made a small status update post, but here's a proper, more thorough information and a bunch of pictures, as I'll document the prototype building process very thoroughly. Well, the current delay in prototypes building can be blamed on me - not any company or anyone else. I've had a few rough weeks. First a colleague with whom I've worked for 20 years now has suddenly died due to a heart attack - then I catched a cold (maybe even the flu)... and while I'm usually recovering within 2 - 3 days, this time, it took more than 2 weeks until I fully recovered. I tried to work on the prototypes - but literally fell asleep in front of them, which wasn't helpful Maybe it was also a small burnout, who knows. But I guess it was all just a bit too much. A lot of work, death of a colleague which also leads to some demotivation, flu season... all that added up and took its toll. Anyways, I gave myself some time to recover, as it won't help ANYONE if I continue working in Zombie mode, and it seems like I've fully recovered now, as I'm feeling fine and FINALLY started to work on the prototypes this weekend! I hope you can understand that Now, onto the important stuff: The news! 1. The cases While the new company has already done some tweaks and design changes, they didn't have too much time as they had a huge project by one of their biggest customers which had to be done within a timeframe. They already told me that when I was visiting. Well, the deadline for that ended last Friday - which means that they can now fully work on the Pyra case. I can't wait to see the fixes they'll do 2. Small change for the keymats The manufacturer of the keymats ran into an unexpected small issue while doing the mass production run: It was nigh impossible to prevent visible air bubbles inside the glue when attaching the keycaps. That's why they're changing the design of the plastic caps so that they will stay affixed on top of the mat without glue. Everything else stays the same. As soon as I know more, I'll let you know. 3. Prototype building Finally, long overdue, the prototypes are being assembled by me. And while I won't do a video (as such a setup is too complex and just hinders the assembly), I'll do a LOT of pictures for you to enjoy, basically a step-by-step guide on how the units are assembled! I will post these pics here in this thread and will try to update it daily, as I continue to assemble the prototypes. First some pictures which don't have anything to do directly with the assembling of the prototypes: One resistor had a wrong value and needed to be replaced. Does anyone remember how MWeston had to replace over 400 resistors to fix Wifi on the first-built Pandoras...? Yeah, we had something similar - though luckily, we noticed it before the mass production. This wrong resistor value limited the power input of the USB port to 1.5A - which caused a slower charging. The resistor is REALLY small. The second one from the left in front of the small chip needs to be replaced. And yes, that's a Micro-SD Card to show the size Fun fact: The third resistor from the left is actually 90° rotated. That's from the pick and place machine It sometimes happens and is the case on multiple PCBs. That's not a problem though, just a fun fact. Here are two pictures of the desoldered resistor. And here's the result: The new capacitor is in there. And my index finger once again shows how small those resistors are. Well, these boards have all been modified - so let's start to turn these little ones into prototypes this week, right? Now, let's start with the real assembly! The Lid The first thing that needs to be assembled is the lid. Let's start with a sheet of bumpers and a bunch of LCD PCBs. These rubber bumpers are being sticked on the PCBs. There are two reasons we're doing this with bumpers and not directly inside the plastic: 1. You would see marks on the outer side of the lid if this would be done inside the plastics, which we want to prevent. 2. When you push too hard with the stylus onto the touchscreen, the soft rubber will cushion that a bit and prevent damage. BTW: The mass production LCD PCBs will look a bit simpler. The solder pads for the once-planned rotator chip will be gone as well as the ones for the other display we looked into. The 0R resistors in the middle of the rotator chip area will also be gone. Next, we'll need the LCDs. They come on trays - these are actually LCDs from the mass production batch, no prototypes anymore. Now we'll connect the LCDs to the LCD PCBs: Simply plugging in the small connector... ... and simply wrapping the flex cable around the PCB, so that the LCD is in front of the LCD PCB. Connecting the touchscreen - and then we're done Now, here's a bunch of magnets. I've got two different sizes, as I need to test which ones are strong enough to reliably trigger the lid switch. These are some neat NeoDym-Magnets. Here they are, glued to the case. And a bunch of transparent cases with magnets - hard to see, due to the transparency, eh? Next step: Putting the pre-assembled LCDs with the PCB into the case. We need to lift the protective foil a bit and put it in front of the case - otherwise, you could have a hard time removing it once the unit is assembled (as the foil would be below the bezel...) Now it's time to connect the LCD cable. And here we are - 10 almost-finished lids! Now we only need to roll the cable and put the backside of the lid on. I couldn't do this today, as I noticed that I don't have the metal logo plates here (they're in the office, and I*m at home). While these will be glued in by the factory for the mass production, I need to do this myself for the prototypes. I'll continue the assembly and picture posting tomorrow - so stay tuned for updates here at this thread And sorry again for the delay - I really needed a bit of time to recover from all the stuff that happened. I'm only a dragon like everyone else UPDATE 2018-03-12: As promised, here is the continuation of our assembly journey As mentioned, this next step won't be necessary for the mass production (as the metal pieces will be sticky on one side, so no glue is needed), but for the prototype production, it is necessary. Here is the lid and the metal part of the logo. Let's put in some glue. And push the logo firmly on top of that. First step done! Then we need to put some glue on the metal logo. Put in the logo (which will be milky-white transparent in the final unit). And here they are! The lids and the logo! As the glue needs to dry first, I couldn't do anymore right now. But the journey will continue!