The case of the case.


Actually, that's not true either. My proposed suggestion keeps the standard cross-pattern of the ABXY that many people here seem so fond of. Through the original 6-button topic, I came to realize how important that issue is to many users here, so I made sure to include it in my designs. It's basically the standard cross and then 2 more buttons in the north-east direction from the cross.
Well, if it as comfortable, it may be a good point that buttons are closer to the nub.

My Pandora is still a 1/2" shy from filling my Pelican 1050.  If the width is increased to 6" it will fit this case better than the Pandora does.  And my thumbs both seem to be able to reach the middle of the case while it is this wide.  I know that some people have very short tight pockets, and any protective case is going to make the Pyra unpocketable anyways, but I have trouble imagining myself ever carrying something as valuable to me as this without a bombproof case.
I'm against increasing the width if it's just for changing the position of two extra buttons and 1/2" (1,3 cm) is way too much
 
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My Pandora is still a 1/2" shy from filling my Pelican 1050.  If the width is increased to 6" it will fit this case better than the Pandora does.  And my thumbs both seem to be able to reach the middle of the case while it is this wide.  I know that some people have very short tight pockets, and any protective case is going to make the Pyra unpocketable anyways, but I have trouble imagining myself ever carrying something as valuable to me as this without a bombproof case.
Some people have smaller hands. I can just reach the Start/Select/Pandora buttons with my thumbs at current Pandora's size. To reach the number 6 key at the top I need to shift position a bit to get to it.

I think adding ~6mm extra distance to reach these buttons might make it a bit uncomfortable for me.
 
The size of the buttons would not change. The distance on the buttons would match the diameter of the dpad, something which people praise on the Pandora.
Maybe but  buttons will no longer be aligned like the d-pad so it would not make sense.
X would not be below Y, A would not be aligned with B. and the distance between A and B will no longer be the same as X and Y. It's all worse.
Actually, that's not true either. My proposed suggestion keeps the standard cross-pattern of the ABXY that many people here seem so fond of. Through the original 6-button topic, I came to realize how important that issue is to many users here, so I made sure to include it in my designs. It's basically the standard cross and then 2 more buttons in the north-east direction from the cross.

-God Ginrai
No - you didn't 'keep the cross' you moved it down and left to where it impinges on the nub and the keyboard forcing the rest of us to reach over the keyboard to get to it.  Now, please, take ED's render of the case plastics - look at the diameter of the game pad keys it uses and the space they're in.  6 at that size will not fit in that space.

Your board example only looks at the contacts and ignores the actual key sizes and the fact that they need room between them and surrounding features (nub, keyboard, speaker) in order to have space for the rubber domes to compress into (they get fatter when compressed).  The minimum key spacing is dictated by how much a dome deflects to the side * 2 so that two keys next to each other can both be depressed.

Six of the actual key sizes for the game keys (not the contact pads) will not fit in the space allowed - regardless of the (smaller) contact patches on the board.

The bottom key in your design impinges on the top row of the keyboard.  The physical key, being larger in diameter than the contact patch would require carving little curved slices out of the keyboard keys.

The left most key's cap in your design would -overlap- with the nub.

The top most key's cap in your design would -overlap- with the speaker.

The size of the contact patch on the circuit board is not the same as the size of the key caps.

What ED & team came up with to add 2 additional keys to that keypad, in the space available, while keeping the 'cross' centered properly, is an ingenious and VERY effective solution.  It does a great job of space allocation.  We have a win - let it be.
 
Some people have smaller hands. I can just reach the Start/Select/Pandora buttons with my thumbs at current Pandora's size. To reach the number 6 key at the top I need to shift position a bit to get to it.

I think adding ~6mm extra distance to reach these buttons might make it a bit uncomfortable for me.
Are the bottom joints of your middle fingers held against the sides of the case, or are the bottom joints of your index fingers held there?  I can comfortably hold the Pandora in two different positions, one of these positions gives me plenty of reach to and beyond the 6 number button, in the other position I can still reach it but not as easily.  Adding, say, 1/4" to the total width will increase the distance our thumbs need to travel to reach the center by 1/8" each.  Since while holding my Pandora in the more comfortable position for me I can reach the opposite nub with either thumb, I think this amount of space will effect the comfort of most users at all, besides a little bit of getting used to before blind typing.  But if you're holding your Pandora with most of your hands folded behind it so that it's already difficult to reach the number keys, then yes I guess this could hurt you a bit.  Sorry, but I think you could get used this.
 
1. LCD testing

As you know, 1080p is causing issues with rotation, so we'll try out a 720p one (well, two, to be exact) together with a chip that can do tear-free scaling and rotation up to 720p to solve that issue.
Nice to hear that there isn't only one alternative regarding the 720p display. Just out of curiosity: is the 1080p still an option?
No. 1080p screens can't be used because they're all portrait format, and that's considered a dealbreaker. 720p screens are also all portrait these days, but they've got this chip now which will hopefully rotate it in hardware, and give us a couple of other neat features too.

...Snip...snip...

Will there be a redesign of the battery lid ? Looking at the forum and the support system, one of the things that will brake no matter what are either the bending clips or one/two/three of the very thin pegs on the other side. Could this be avoided for the Pyra please ?
I remember one of the early Pandora prototypes had a slider lock mechanism, why was that idea dismissed at the end ?
ED currently seems to be confident that with better case materials and closer tolerances there will be less breakage issues, and less dodgy-contact battery issues with the design largely as is, but I'm confident that that sort of thing is something he'll be actively checking. As you say, it's a recurrent enough issue. Unless of course he doesn't want to lose the profit on spare battery covers ;)
 
No - you didn't 'keep the cross' you moved it down and left to where it impinges on the nub and the keyboard forcing the rest of us to reach over the keyboard to get to it.  Now, please, take ED's render of the case plastics - look at the diameter of the game pad keys it uses and the space they're in.  6 at that size will not fit in that space.
Yes, I did keep the cross. The position of the cross is not the important thing, it was the fact that they are arranged in a cross pattern. It does not impinge on the nub, and you're trying to make it sound like these buttons are harder to reach, when they are actually closer to your thumb than the nub is, which no one seems to have problems with the positioning of. And 6 buttons will fit in that space, I have already made mockups detailing this before the PCB mockup.

Your board example only looks at the contacts and ignores the actual key sizes and the fact that they need room between them and surrounding features (nub, keyboard, speaker) in order to have space for the rubber domes to compress into (they get fatter when compressed).  The minimum key spacing is dictated by how much a dome deflects to the side * 2 so that two keys next to each other can both be depressed.
 That's not true at all. I had already created an example before the PCB example, but then people claimed "I don't believe it can be done on the PCB", hence why I created the PCB example to show that "Yes, it is possible on the actual PCB as well".

Six of the actual key sizes for the game keys (not the contact pads) will not fit in the space allowed - regardless of the (smaller) contact patches on the board.
Yes they will.

The bottom key in your design impinges on the top row of the keyboard.  The physical key, being larger in diameter than the contact patch would require carving little curved slices out of the keyboard keys.
No it wouldn't, the buttons are not as large as you seem to think.

The left most key's cap in your design would -overlap- with the nub.
No it wouldn't, there would be more plastic between the nub and the button than there is plastic verically between the keyboard keys.

The top most key's cap in your design would -overlap- with the speaker.
No it wouldn't, EvilDragon has already confirmed this is not the case with my earlier design. The top button in my design is the same height was the Y button is currently.

What ED & team came up with to add 2 additional keys to that keypad, in the space available, while keeping the 'cross' centered properly, is an ingenious and VERY effective solution.  It does a great job of space allocation.  We have a win - let it be.
No, we don't have a win. We have 2 useless buttons that are hard to use effectively.

-God Ginrai
 
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Can we have a picture of the case together as an assembly please :)

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 
Some people have smaller hands. I can just reach the Start/Select/Pandora buttons with my thumbs at current Pandora's size. To reach the number 6 key at the top I need to shift position a bit to get to it.

I think adding ~6mm extra distance to reach these buttons might make it a bit uncomfortable for me.
Are the bottom joints of your middle fingers held against the sides of the case, or are the bottom joints of your index fingers held there?  I can comfortably hold the Pandora in two different positions, one of these positions gives me plenty of reach to and beyond the 6 number button, in the other position I can still reach it but not as easily.  Adding, say, 1/4" to the total width will increase the distance our thumbs need to travel to reach the center by 1/8" each.  Since while holding my Pandora in the more comfortable position for me I can reach the opposite nub with either thumb, I think this amount of space will effect the comfort of most users at all, besides a little bit of getting used to before blind typing.  But if you're holding your Pandora with most of your hands folded behind it so that it's already difficult to reach the number keys, then yes I guess this could hurt you a bit.  Sorry, but I think you could get used this.
Well, I can't reach the opposite nub with my thumb at all:

2N9je7B.jpg


It was already quite uncomfortable to reach that far, had to raise my grip a lot compared to how I usually hold Pandora and was slightly pressing the keys on the corner with the palm of my hand.

It's not just matter of getting used to it. Not everyone has same size hands.
 
Oh wow, our hands are indeed very different.  On the plus side I don't think you'll have as much reason to reach above the nubs on the Pyra as on the Pandora. 
 
Oh wow, our hands are indeed very different.  On the plus side I don't think you'll have as much reason to reach above the nubs on the Pyra as on the Pandora. 
I'm still concerned that adding any amount of width would make reaching the three middle buttons uncomfortable, ie. that I would need to stretch out or change my grip just to reach those buttons (I'm stretching out as far as I can go in the above pic).
 
I'm still concerned that adding any amount of width would make reaching the three middle buttons uncomfortable, ie. that I would need to stretch out or change my grip just to reach those buttons (I'm stretching out as far as I can go in the above pic).
Adding width isn't needed. The 6-button layout I am suggesting will work with the current space restraints. Also, even if we were to try to increase the area for the buttons, it would make more sense to move the nubs inward some than to make the device wider, seeing as how there is unused space between the nubs and the Start/Select/Home buttons.

-God Ginrai
 
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Hello,

Would it be possible to have the four buttons rotate between cross and square positions, while keeping to extra buttons beside it? I don't know if it would be mechanically possible, if there would be a comfortable and simple way to rotate it, or if it might reach the space constraints. But I thought it might be an idea worth suggesting anyway. Would be cool to have a cross arrangement but also allow a three two row three column arrangement for some games.

Feel free to dismiss this idea if it's too impossible, too costly or too fragile.

Thanks,

Janito
 
This would increase the complexity of the part immensely. Not to mention, two horizontal rows is not any more useful. The 2x3 layout on most 6-button controllers works because its rows follow the pivot of the thumb around its joint.

-God Ginrai
 
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Hello,

cool, nice to have a solid reason to confirm what I felt was a bad idea but thought was a good idea =)

Thank you!

Janito
 
No. 1080p screens can't be used because they're all portrait format, and that's considered a dealbreaker. 720p screens are also all portrait these days, but they've got this chip now which will hopefully rotate it in hardware, and give us a couple of other neat features too.
How do you know, did Ed comment on that ? And just to be sure: I know the reasons, why 720p display are considered again.
ED currently seems to be confident that with better case materials and closer tolerances there will be less breakage issues, and less dodgy-contact battery issues with the design largely as is, but I'm confident that that sort of thing is something he'll be actively checking. As you say, it's a recurrent enough issue. Unless of course he doesn't want to lose the profit on spare battery covers ;)
The lid will be flimsy regardless of the material, its more a design failure than anything else, in my opinion.
 
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Let me quote from the landscapes/portraits thread:

(Page 18, first post)

No 1080p version in the works right now (but we can easily upgrade once it becomes available, as it's on the display PCB) and yes, the chip can be completely switched off and bypassed.
IIRC someone said somewhere that the chip is not capable of doing 1080p
 
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