- Apr 3, 2016
I hope you verify beforehand, that that 18650 of yours can handle the current the Pyra may throw at it. ?
Yes, I even checked for the proper contacts alignment.Have you tried just pushing the battery against the contacts! You probabably just need to stick some card or velcro on the back of the battery to push it against the contacts.
Well, yes. But we know that the charging chip software "is not there yet" at the moment, so it could be possible that the charging chip does not like something and does not tell us about it at the same time. Thermal parameters could be ok, but also there could be some glitch in the battery protection circuit. Anyway, it is an easy experiment. I always run debugging from easy tests to the complicated ones.No, not in your case. The charging chip did not report a temperature fault.
I love fireworks!I hope you verify beforehand, that that 18650 of yours can handle the current the Pyra may throw at it. ?
What do you think about this one attached hereto? By the way, as I managed to boot and have a full battery I've ran same tests and scripts you suggested earlier. To my eye nothing changed, so the reason why it now has severe booting problems remains a mystery.No, not in your case. The charging chip did not report a temperature fault.
The huge number for refreshed means no charger has been plugged in yet.What do you think about this one attached hereto?
We bypassed the software by reading the fault registers directly from the chip. They'd be all zeros or random numbers if the bq24297 chip had completely failed.But we know that the charging chip software "is not there yet"
I like ED too much and appreciate his work on making a user serviceable open source device. Thus I won't disappoint him and send back a motherboard with no blown capacitors and burned tracks
Well, I am still alive while Pyra is running of a new batteryIf you want to try an 18650 you'll also need a 10k resistor from ground to the middle pin, or a 10k thermistor attached to the battery and connected the same. Most 18650s can take at least 10A
Oh, I've got inside this thing... We won't be checking the circuits. Just see the photos I made.A fault in the OTG circuit (U1205 and U1207) would stop the power getting from the USB to the charging chip (BQ24297 on sheet 8).
Well, that's definitely an option. The problem with this particular screw is that it is a hardened one, so drill slips from its core destroying the plastic "barrel" in which screw sits. I still can cut the whole thing with the stuck screw, drill a trough hole and squeeze the two parts of the case with a bolt and nut That's the most insignificant problem of all that I have, unfortunately...I had the trouble of my Pandora that I was unable to remove any of the deep screws using hand tools; I think the paint on the case was so thick in places that it wedged the screw heads in their channels. After rounding out the head using hand tools the remaining shape made it quite easy to center a drill the head, so I used a small bit to drill out the length of the screw leaving a ribbon like thread which I pulled out, and from the other side it was relatively easy to poke the remains of the heads out.
I've spent some time with a magnifying glass and a toothpick looking at it (sometimes i regret having shitty camera in my phone with no macro lens). Basing on my experience it looks like a heavy corrosion provoked by flux which was not washed off - it is flaky and peels off, while metal underneath looks corroded and circuit lacquer is damaged. But on some parts it is a bit different – on vibromotor balance it is very thin and covers only one side, very similar to a result of nearby capacitor explosion (I’ve checked the nearby capacitors – visually they look ok). Some spots have dark color, which could be flux burnt during soldering, or a short circuit due to the said corrosion.
Second image, that chip next to the text U605: is that a solderbridge between the first two pins (uppermost in picture)?Oh, I've got inside this thing... We won't be checking the circuits. Just see the photos I made.
Also, I am definitely unlucky. The last screw holding the case together was sitting in a messed up thread. Had to drill it's head away to open the case (the result is on the third picture). So I will most likely need a new top part of the case as the geometry will not let me cut new thread and use the next size screw.