Amiga Thread.


@Ian J, well a standard 0.1 pitch wouldn't likely work, the width of the pins would be too small. Perhaps a thicker header pin connector, like ones designed for more current.
 
Yay, my recap kit has arrived. I am super excited. New PSU with 4,5A has been sent out as well and should arrive today or tomorrow hopefully. When I get some new solder wick I will finally recap my new A1200. Hopefully all weird reboot problems will disappear with the old capacitors.

Some new stuff coming from the bay of e actually. I went on a little tool buying binge. I have been looking for some decent standard tools for a while but didn't want to buy new stuff. I scored a big lot today (apparently 160pcs) which should have everything I wanted. Only thing I am still missing is some decent esd proof tools and smd/soldering stuff.
 
Does anyone know where to get a USB version of this joystick?

Look what I found lurking the loft!

IMG_20170224_174958.jpg

prob find some USB dongle that would do the trick.

Time to get one of those.
 
IT IS DONE! and it was one hell of a solderjob. For anyone who wants to recap their amiga: Do not twist the caps off or try to desolder them! The best method I found, avoiding to lift any solder pads, is to get yourself a decent esd proof wire cutter, and snip the smd caps off!

Since I couldn't desolder two of the bigger elko caps, I left those for now. Everything else is pretty much replaced by ceramic caps!
 
@xnopasaranx yeah my first attempt with my original A600 motherboard I tried to carefully de-solder each pad and it ended up lifting up a couple pads. Honestly on the second motherboard I attempted the twisting method and it worked well for me, but I could see an issue if there was already Capacitor leakage it may end up ripping the pads off, just because the corrosion already weakened the pads. I think If I attempt it again I'll try cutting the leads off like you did.
 
@TrashyMG don"t try to cut the leads. you will scratch the board. Cut directly through the cylinder of the cap, there is a small groove on the bottom right above the plastic base, that's the spot where you should pinch through it. that way the plastic base keeps the leads protected a bit. you can then lift the plastic off the remaining leads, or cut the leads further if the plastic is stuck. afterwards cleaning the pads is a breeze and you can immediately see if any damage is visible under the capacitor, before you decide on how to proceed.

My gotek drive is not working yet though. I have started to mod it and solder the connectors needed for the extension board onto it. I ust have done something wrong in the process. I think I have connected the display wrongly... will have to try fixing this tonight when I am back home. The drive is reading something, so I think everything else is connected the correctly. Can't test it though without knowing which slot is selected.
 
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@sm0kew0n I have uploaded a video to youtube, showing your C64 stuff in action :)
[doublepost=1489024271,1489004723][/doublepost]BTW I have sent off my A1200 mainboard to a guy from a German amiga forum. He will try to fix it. It was still crashing after the recap, but it had to be running for at least an hour. So our guess was that it must be a cold solder joint on the cpu or alice. Well that is too finicky for me to resolder. I hope the rework will finally get my amiga working reliably.
 
Thanks for the info.

Hard to believe with all of the new cases, key caps and hardware being made that no-one has made a replacement power supply.
I have asked around on the German forum64 and also the a1k.org forums about the whole psu misery and it seems quite clear: noone wants to take responsibility for producing new psus as you'd be obliged to take responsibility if something happens with them (fire, electrocution... too many ways to die). In the EU you can't legally sell a PSU without certification anyway (not sure how it is outside the EU but without certification you can't import them here). In Germany you can't even fix a PSU for a friend legally, only for yourself apparently. That's why :(

UPDATE: My A1200 is back and running fairly well. Still had the occasional crash, but I guess that is to be expected. Have an 80gb IDE HDD setup with SFS and got rid of the sd-card adapter as that gave me nothing but trouble. I have AmiSys4 installed on a wb3.9 base and classicwb on a wb 3.1 base.
WHDLoad is giving me some grief. I can play most of my installs with a few exceptions: Eye of the Beholder for example crashes right after the intro...
What could I do to find out what's wrong? Is the install too old maybe? Got it from some torrent... I am running WHDLoad 18.1 with my own keyfile.
my easynet pcmcia network card came as well and I have been struggling to get the amiga integrated in my LAN. I can browse the web but I can't ping my own router??? I need to invest some time to get this working, I would love to access my smb shares.
 
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I have asked around on the German forum64 and also the a1k.org forums about the whole psu misery and it seems quite clear: noone wants to take responsibility for producing new psus as you'd be obliged to take responsibility if something happens with them (fire, electrocution... too many ways to die). In the EU you can't legally sell a PSU without certification anyway (not sure how it is outside the EU but without certification you can't import them here). In Germany you can't even fix a PSU for a friend legally, only for yourself apparently. That's why :(

UPDATE: My A1200 is back and running fairly well. Still had the occasional crash, but I guess that is to be expected. Have an 80gb IDE HDD setup with SFS and got rid of the sd-card adapter as that gave me nothing but trouble. I have AmiSys4 installed on a wb3.9 base and classicwb on a wb 3.1 base.
WHDLoad is giving me some grief. I can play most of my installs with a few exceptions: Eye of the Beholder for example crashes right after the intro...
What could I do to find out what's wrong? Is the install too old maybe? Got it from some torrent... I am running WHDLoad 18.1 with my own keyfile.
my easynet pcmcia network card came as well and I have been struggling to get the amiga integrated in my LAN. I can browse the web but I can't ping my own router??? I need to invest some time to get this working, I would love to access my smb shares.
whdload is free now so give the latest version a go.
 
yeah I will, but I mirrored the latest whdload game packs off the eab ftp first. Will see if those lha files are working better.

I just got AMITCP/IP to work correctly! Yay, no more burning files to cd-rom, now I can unpack my games directly from my NAS. Feels soooo good!
 
I threw together a video comprised of two videos I had on my current Amiga 600 project. Mind the stuttering...


Edit: Forgot I also wanted to merge this video in, but I spent too much time on things already.

 
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I use my Amiga on a Philips 8833 MKII monitor most of the time.

I'm wanting to get a female Scart to D-sub lead (readily available on eBay) so that I can use the monitor with more of my retro stuff.

Has anyone used these leads from eBay, they look quite flimsy for the cost.
 
Ah, the old 8833 MkII! I threw one of those out in my last move - it did at least have a broken stand in my defence.

It has a standard 15-pin DE type plug on it doesn't it? IIRC it's relatively easy to wire those into a SCART socket yourself, though I've not perused the pinout of either in may a year now.
 
I think it's a 9 pin.

I did make my own lead years ago before I sold off all of my Amiga kit.

I would prefer to make my own lead so that I can build it with quality cable.
 
Ah right, I'm probably thinking of a later VGA monitor that I trashed then, and the 8833 is probably still somewhere in the loft. Looking at the DE-9 pinout on an 8833 Mk II it looks fairly easy to wire up to a TV that speaks RGB SCART.

The guest post at the end of this old avforums post looks reasonable to me: https://www.avforums.com/threads/rgb-scart-to-db9-philips-cm8833-ii-amiga-atari-st-monitors.438634/ - although it's working back to front. To clarify that last line, you want composite sync (pin 7 of the DE9) to go to composite in on SCART (pin 20). I'd also be tempted to whoosh those ground pins around all of the various ground lines in SCART.
 
This looks like a nice Eye of The Beholder type dungeon crawler.

http://www.indieretronews.com/2017/04/evils-doom-incredible-rpg-dungeon.html

First I've heard of it.
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IT IS DONE! and it was one hell of a solderjob. For anyone who wants to recap their amiga: Do not twist the caps off or try to desolder them! The best method I found, avoiding to lift any solder pads, is to get yourself a decent esd proof wire cutter, and snip the smd caps off!

Are these the type of caps you are referring to?

Amiga Caps.jpg


Did you order a cap kit or order all of the individual caps? If it was a kit can you post a link for me please.

I've found with the type of caps above that if you wiggle the body it will lift off the base leaving the plastic with the pins sticking out of the board, the pins are then much easier to remove.

Having said that I don't know it if I dare do that on an Amiga, and those caps above look like they have much more solder exposed to work with than some I have removed in the past.
 
Well I was spending a ton of time getting the values and finding the right sized Caps. but ended up just getting a kit from here : http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/
price wise it about the same and the kit just eliminated some of the uncertainty.

There is a pulldown menu to select A600 or A1200 in the order form. I'd give a specific link, but it's different depending on location you choose on the site.

I've ordered other parts from here too and they have a similar kit: http://amigastore.eu
 
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