Absurdism corner
- Thread starter Bosbeetle
- Start date
levi
Still fresh, damnit!
Pennywise would be in trouble if that town ever floods.
I would say the issue is that you shouldnd run multiple devices from one Wallplug, the ideal case would be to have one Wallplug per device..
Allthough i have also a Multi Plug Brigg under my Desk, for
- Mini Fridge
- Desk Lamp
- USB Power Supply
- TV (which is my PC Display)
- Nintendo Switch
- Printer
- Micro HIFI
- Turntable
- Notebook Power Supply..
Allthough i have also a Multi Plug Brigg under my Desk, for
- Mini Fridge
- Desk Lamp
- USB Power Supply
- TV (which is my PC Display)
- Nintendo Switch
- Printer
- Micro HIFI
- Turntable
- Notebook Power Supply..
ElPoco
Hardcore Member
According to the orientation of the holes, the adapter would be vertical and not horizontal.
In the second image they aren't using the same plugs in the before and after pictures, probably because the 45° angle would have them look weird, plus I'm not sure the last fat plug would leave enough space to plug something next to it.
In the second image they aren't using the same plugs in the before and after pictures, probably because the 45° angle would have them look weird, plus I'm not sure the last fat plug would leave enough space to plug something next to it.
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levi
Still fresh, damnit!
Not really. The problem used to be the prevlanence of high power devices like three bar electric fires around, and those should almost always be plugged directly into a power sockets. That's combined with the fact that old cube style adaptors were rarely fused, so the only indication of an overload was usually the adaptor melting and dropping off the wall. These days, the most common high power device still in use is the vacuum cleaner, and those should always be plugged directly into a wall socket, and maybe some of these fancy fan contraptions that include a heating element could need a lot of power, I'm not sure, but for everything else, a couple at amps at 230V is about half a kilowatt so plenty of power for their needs, and putting four of those in an adaptor is still only 10A, so suitable for most sockets. Assuming it's all fused appropriately the worst that can happen is a fuse pops when you weren't expecting it and the power disappearing, but that's for your safety so you shouldn't really complain, and be taught a lesson.
You named the errors but you did not mention the words "Photoshop" or "GIMP".
Shame on you.
With reference to a recent Tech-Conn video, I do wonder why other countries don't use fused plugs. It's not a complicated intervention, and hugely reduces the potential for overloaded socket-strips. It would be surprising to find an extension lead not rated for and fused at 13A in the UK.
Some manufacturers (not even the worst) like to put 13A fuses in appliances with flexes too thin for that, which is frustrating, but not really a problem. If you're worried about accidentally putting a 3kW lightbulb in your table lamp, lower-rated fuses can be bought at any good supermarket.
Some manufacturers (not even the worst) like to put 13A fuses in appliances with flexes too thin for that, which is frustrating, but not really a problem. If you're worried about accidentally putting a 3kW lightbulb in your table lamp, lower-rated fuses can be bought at any good supermarket.
Djoga'Ro
moonstruck
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2016
- Messages
- 2,499
With proper e-installation standards you have no need for fused plugs. All inwall wiring, extensions, and hubs need to easily withstand the currents that the breaker allows and there have to be breakers and wetrooms need to also be secured with stray-current sensing breakers (or whatever that's called in [en]). Done.
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levi
Still fresh, damnit!
I usually replace the fuses in my adaptors for their intended use. Usually a 5A for a 2 gang apaptor and 10A for a 4-way one.
Yes, for 3A and 5A (as well as 13A). But 1s, 7s and 10s you need to go to a proper old school electronics shoppe.
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