We need more drama. So here's another video.


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EvilDragon

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As the last video seems to have pleased you guys, here is another one.

I'm talking about the logo plate here as well as a small dream "what we could've done with the case" and finally, I'm showing you that the shoulder button will not kill the LCD cable (as some had the fear it would).


I'm posting this while the video is being uploaded - so if you're too fast, you won't see the video yet :)
 
Nother update so soon? Awesome.

You live and you learn. Personally, I like the idea of just a medallion on the back, but the self adhesive stuff is fine to I guess. Next case revision is going to be cool though. :)
 
More Drama? - Who you gonna call? ;)
Well, I don't care much if the case is painted or not -as long as the paint sticks to the surface and don't peel off. But IF you paint the case anyways, why bother much about the base colour of the plastics? Matching colours are nice but I'm sure with paint, more colours are possible without much issues like using different plastic colours.The base colour only should be close to the actualy paint so scratches don't look to bad.
The logo solution...I always found this piece weird, somehow. Over complicated and not really a "professional" solution for putting a logo onto a case. Compare it to various illuminated logos on Laptops for instance. But "Logo-schmogo" like I always say... ;)
 
Coating can't peel off, that can only happen if you paint it with brushes.
However, it will rub off over time - take a look at the old Nintendo DS or the Pandora. Where the silver color rubs off, you can see a black base - which looks ugly.

That doesn't happen if you use the same base color.

About the logo: Not sure what you mean with "how professional companies do it", but Apple and other illuminated logos I've seen do it similar: they have a cutout inside the case with a milky white transparent illuminated logo inside.

The only difference is that we have to use an additional plate. it wasn't planned like that, but as the logo flame has pretty thin areas, it can't be done directly in plastic (unless you produce the case and then use a laser cutter directly on the case to cut out the logo area)
 
Coating can't peel off, that can only happen if you paint it with brushes.
However, it will rub off over time - take a look at the old Nintendo DS or the Pandora. Where the silver color rubs off, you can see a black base - which looks ugly.

That doesn't happen if you use the same base color.

About the logo: Not sure what you mean with "how professional companies do it", but Apple and other illuminated logos I've seen do it similar: they have a cutout inside the case with a milky white transparent illuminated logo inside.

The only difference is that we have to use an additional plate. it wasn't planned like that, but as the logo flame has pretty thin areas, it can't be done directly in plastic (unless you produce the case and then use a laser cutter directly on the case to cut out the logo area)
Yeah, my old NDS has rubbed the silver off, and has a white base. Looks pretty bad actually. However, having the base plastic the same color negates that issue. Paint covers issues in plastic, and even when rubbed off, looks fine if the same color. The only issue is time and money. However, seems worth it I guess, as it will help sell units, which are needed.
 
I didn't think it was drama. We all had our concerns. And you've swooped in and seem pretty confident with your direction.
I'll take that.

Careful feeding us so much news in short periods of time, we'll come to expect it!
Most importantly it was good to see you excited about news in this video. It felt like you have been getting a lot of good answers since the last video instead of set backs. I guess hearing that samples of painted cases can be done in days instead of weeks fuels the enthusiasm.
Still loving the behind the scenes of product development.
 
Thank you very much ED.
It's very nice to see that things are moving FWD and that the Pyra will be out in a few months.

Thanks for all your work. It will be an amazing device.
 
To get a short oneshot video every now and then is very nice.

Drama delivery: I now do actually worry about having a flexible logo plate in the cutout, when there is so little surface area in the case's cutout to glue onto or in other words such a narrow rim around the actual hole. You said, it be thicker than the examples you held in your hands there, but they wouldn't get as stiff as a metal plate, I gather.
 
About the logo: Not sure what you mean with "how professional companies do it", but Apple and other illuminated logos I've seen do it similar: they have a cutout inside the case with a milky white transparent illuminated logo inside.

The only difference is that we have to use an additional plate. it wasn't planned like that, but as the logo flame has pretty thin areas, it can't be done directly in plastic (unless you produce the case and then use a laser cutter directly on the case to cut out the logo area)
I know the Logo-Story. Your solution is OK and it might be difficult to mold that complex and thin edged logo into plastic. But since you paint the case anyways I even could imagine to simply produce a transparent top case part with engraved or embosed Logo that is masked and only paint around it. Besides changing the mold this might have been the simplest solution for such an Logo imho. I know it's to late for that but if everything else fails, who knows...

Besides that, we should focus on more important Pyra related things than a logo placement.
 
Never being a fan of the current logo, and now having a dual extruder 3D printer now I plan on attempting my own logo as I can have an opaque and transparent plastic in the same layer. Can experiment with a few emblems. Perhaps I can finally have that Pickledora I've wanted.
 
well I was planning to pour resin into the structural defekt there anyhow ;) so just make a fancy sticker ... like the idea with the recessed cases though
 
Regular video updates? Hype intensified!

Potential collector's edition? Hype intensified!

Any other news of improvements at this stage? Drama intensified!
[doublepost=1570121428,1570121397][/doublepost]I'm still curious about the cooling slots...
 
I don't really care what the logo plate is made of, whether it's metal or plastic. I think I was right that with that plate in place I'm less distracted by the plastic stresses. But I would advise against using skins; in my experience at least the adhesive fails after a few years and worse than that the corners of the skin gets ground down through use and shows up normally as the white plastic layer underneath the colour. Also I'm concerned about how the plastic will age compared to the polycarbonate below.

BTW the normal name in English for those kind of moving belts is a conveyor belt.

Edit: Also I'm concerned that if the logo plate is made of plastic and cut the same way as the aluminium those uh, tines inside the flame design might catch inside pockets and things. But I guess you weren't actually planning to do it like that.
 
Moving belts are called a "conveyor" :)
Funny thing for me was that he didn't even have to say it for me to understand what he was referring to. From the moment he started casting about for the word I was already thinking "conveyor belt, conveyor belt, the English term is conveyor belt" as if that would somehow help him with recollecting the term. :)

-Neelix
 
Getting hung up on a logo plate... Talk about something ideal for us to get obsessed with! Brainstorming alternatives...

Laser cutting is too hot for the planned adhesive backed aluminum.

What about water jet cutting? Die cutting?

Die cutting is an old-school method, but pretty straight forward. There are companies that do that. Example:
https://www.usnameplate.com/materials/metal/
Aluminum seems to be no big trouble:
https://www.usnameplate.com/products/control-panel-overlays/
The catch is that this is yet another vendor relationship and yet another set of steel plates to have made (the dies).

If it can be made to snap-fit from the front or sandwich glue with a 2nd piece of plastic from the inside, make a quick mold for the 1 or 2 pieces, skip metal entirely and call it good? The adhesive between the two thin pieces of plastic (one inside, one outside) would be more or less invisible behind a translucent plastic outer piece. They would effectively be two halves of a coin. One dollop of adhesive, squish 'em together hard, lights shine through. Existing plastics company should be able to crank these out pretty quick. Logo in the center, by simply being thicker, should show up well enough.
 
The following conversation happend two and a half years ago.

Zwerg01 said:
Ok, and the plate is ready and tested?

Randomfanboy said:
It's literally just an aluminum plate, the LEDs are on the display board. It's been shown in prior pictures.

Yes, and we have 3000 of them :)

And now it comes out, a test revealed, that the plate is not working. Two and a half year time to make a proper plate. Two and a half year to think about a solution. No, now we have to figure out, how we can make a plate. Order a prototype and test if its working. Make another iteration and so on and so forth. The pyra is not delayed because of its complexity, it is a lack of structured work.
 
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