Poll: Mod A D-pad, Use Stock Joystick, Buy New Gp2x If Integrated D-pa

[Lint]

I didn't ever owned a MK-I but MK-II still have the same dead-zone which can prevent you from reacting fast from left to right or up to down, and this is such a drag.... also mine almost stopped working left stick push, but stick's grip is okay unless you start to suede

since MK-I stick has been rotated 45 degrees, does it means that on MK-I it's even harder to reach straight angles?

I think most time we use stick push is not in a quick reaction button, so stick push don't have to be so in hand as it is on gp2x, pressing all directions at same time would do a perfect stick push, but that would require software or hardware interaction...

last but not least, your mod is very didatical (does this term exist in english?) but most people are afraid into trying this and not acomplishing, so you'd end up with a half-modded 2x
this can occur in many situations like the d-pad not responding correctly or something like that.. also your mod is ugly (I hope you don't get offended, that's just the simple truth)

 

[rei_yano]

Well their bit about d-pads being a copyright infringement on Nintendo, whether GPH told Craig this or he thinks it himself, is a load of bull. If so, every company from Microsoft to Sega to Madcatz to the guys who make those little LCD games is breaking Nintendo's patent.

the patent is expired.

http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?...p;RS=PN/4687200

 

[andyB911]

The stats currently say that users are happy with the current joystick.

Looks to me like 3 quarters of the responders are less than delighted and would like it changed one way or another.

 

[Epicenter]

Bingo ... and seeing as I've been working on installing a D-Pad for over a week and a half with limited success (sure I can get it to work electrically, but mounting it is a fucking nightmare) I can attest that it's not an easy project. Even using Radek's kit I got nowhere; I'm having more luck chopping up 3rd-party XBox controllers... we really do need some sort of service to get them installed that doesn't cost too much, or just have GPH manufacture a solution.

 

[DaveC]

Bingo ... and seeing as I've been working on installing a D-Pad for over a week and a half with limited success (sure I can get it to work electrically, but mounting it is a fucking nightmare) I can attest that it's not an easy project. Even using Radek's kit I got nowhere; I'm having more luck chopping up 3rd-party XBox controllers...

Are you using a QD pad or something different now?

 

[Epicenter]

Tried Radek's 'kit', which didn't mention wires that needed to be soldered; I had to infer that much and deduce the wiring from old photos. Once that was taken care of and installed, the chip burned up for reasons yet unknown. I removed the chip from the equation and the back PCB, and wired up the contact pad, and DPad/Membrane to the stick contacts directly and it worked, but required immense pressure on the pad-- measured resistance across the pads was >3Kohms! The other pad was mostly useless and could barely conduct at all.

So I removed the QD pads from the equation too, and opened up a Madcatz XBox controller that has a little daughterboard with 5 wires coming off it, UP DOWN LEFT RIGHT and GND, all labelled on both sides. That has extremely little resistance across the contacts (00ohms) and is very responsive and comfortable. However, getting the thing mounted inside the machine so that it matches up with the height of the faceplate is proving exceedingly difficult. I hope I do not need to mount it above my faceplate, but I probably will have to.

In the process of working on it, the build quality of my '2x unit became apparent. 1 cap was rattling around inside the unit and another one fell off at random. The headphone jack was held in place by the case only, there was basically no solder there. After resoldering it the R channel is the only one working, I probably need to buy a new jack and install it where the old one was with some wires, and just pray I can get jack sensing to work. If not I'll need a software solution for that... the speakers also came off- both of them! The solder did nothing to hold them on at all. It's very, very depressing!

I just hope I can get my GP2X to a state where I can enjoy using it! In its present state, and with the default stick, I cannot do that.

 

[muphicks]

DPad would be nice. I might mod mine at some stage, but not just yet

As for a future GP2X, I'd like to see the DPad come as standard but It'd also be neat to have an analogue (and I mean analogue, not the current digital when you push it far enough) stick just above it. Then we have the best of both worlds.

 

[bacteria]

Tried Radek's 'kit', which didn't mention wires that needed to be soldered; I had to infer that much and deduce the wiring from old photos. Once that was taken care of and installed, the chip burned up for reasons yet unknown. I removed the chip from the equation and the back PCB, and wired up the contact pad, and DPad/Membrane to the stick contacts directly and it worked, but required immense pressure on the pad-- measured resistance across the pads was >3Kohms! The other pad was mostly useless and could barely conduct at all.

Are people still so convinced about the "merits" of Radek's kit, and wanting to buy it now, I wonder? <_<

Epicentre - any chance of pics of this MadCatz Xbox D-pad and daughterboard? If it doesn't fit in the GP2x case flushly, you could always mount a piece of plastic (as I used in my Guide), cut the "+" out and mount it over the joystick surround - you could make this look nice, it will be secure, and will be raised above the GP2x case (which it appears you need to do?). Other option (would this work?) extend the shafts from the front case which go through the motherboard - this would give more room at the front of the case - back should still go on; there is plenty of room there (I think?). Might be worth trying.

last but not least, your mod is very didatical (does this term exist in english?) but most people are afraid into trying this and not acomplishing

The word is "didactical" (according to Google) - meaning "morally instructive" - is this what you meant?

If you do the mod, even one which isn't installed on the GP2x itself (ie make a standalone one) you will see how good it responds, you could then make a proper one onto the GP2x if you want to.

Surely making a D-pad with my instructions, stand alone, to test it, is hardly difficult; and then you could make a less "ugly" version :huh: . Look at the pic below - what is "ugly" about it?

 

[Epicenter]

Well, I don't know that Radek's kit is bad, maybe I am just unlucky. It seems a good idea but its execution has problems..

It might be simpler just laying down some 3M doublestick tape and setting the daughterboard there, with a hole for the wires to go through .. then gluing the membrane and Dpad together there with a bit of trimming to fit so it's a little less tacky. At this point I'm mostly not concerned if my GP2X looks good if it works and holds together-- odds are I'm going to need to steal the headphone jack out of another device and attach it somewhere else, solder some wires for it, etc. I don't expect it to look too grand, as my mechanical skills are less than brilliant. After I see how the XGP series turns out I can decide if I want a 'fresh' GP2X anyway..

Epicentre

Epicenter

Well, I don't know that Radek's kit is bad, maybe I am just unlucky. It seems a good idea but its execution has problems.. the part with the gooey phase-change material (polyform?) is especially baffling and can become a complete disaster very easily.

It might be simpler just laying down some 3M doublestick tape and setting the daughterboard there, with a hole for the wires to go through .. then gluing the membrane and Dpad together there with a bit of trimming to fit so it's a little less tacky. At this point I'm mostly not concerned if my GP2X looks good if it works and holds together-- odds are I'm going to need to steal the headphone jack out of another device and attach it somewhere else, solder some wires for it, etc. I don't expect it to look too grand, as my mechanical skills are less than brilliant. After I see how the XGP series turns out I can decide if I want a 'fresh' GP2X anyway..

 

[bacteria]

Epicentre

Epicenter

Oops, sorry!

Looking at the specs of the XGP, it has a small screen and is low powered (140Mhz) - looks like a successor to the GP32 but not on the same par as the GP2x. GPH have still got a joystick in this and not a D-pad, looking at the size of the XGP it looks like modding one in will be unlikely...

 

[Epicenter]

I meant the full XGP model-- if nothing else the Mini. I don't have a real reason to get an XGP Kids; as you said it's underpowered, the screen's pretty tiny, and the control method looks like a GP32 click-stick or Analog stick; not sure which, but both are far better than the GP2X stick anyway.

At any rate, GP built the XGP Kids, rather than GPH. So it should not by any means be the GP2X's shitty stick in there.

 

[bacteria]

Let's hope the new model is at least as good and powerful as the GP2x in real terms, but with a far better control system - and lets hope it runs all the GP2x games (that would be groovy).

 

[Epicenter]

At the very least, it will be more powerful than the GP2X. If Magiceyes' specs for the VRender-3D are to be taken as fact then the CPU would be 200 MHz, and it could be inferred GP calls it 266 Mhz due to overclocking success (as Craig calls the GP2X's CPU '240 MHz' for this reason.) The real benefits would be the 2D/3D acceleration and Mobile DDR rather than SDRAM.

GP's expressed that it's likely they'll switch to a D-Pad for the XGP due to huge support for it, and lower cost. This may also be the case with a 4:3 display rather than a 16:9 one. They are also considering switching the VRender-3D chipset for a more advanced Samsung one with a 266 Mhz base clockrate (ARM926EJ-S), AFP9 Floating point/Vector processor (nearly as fast as the GP2X's main CPU on its own), a programmable 16-bit DSP, and the same 2D/3D accelerator unit.

Assuming they offer Linux for the machines (it looks like they will; the site lists GPOS, Linux and Windows CE as an option) any GP2X program could feasibly be ported, and it'd be extremely easy to do so.

 

[bacteria]

At the very least, it will be more powerful than the GP2X. If Magiceyes' specs for the VRender-3D are to be taken as fact then the CPU would be 200 MHz, and it could be inferred GP calls it 266 Mhz due to overclocking success (as Craig calls the GP2X's CPU '240 MHz' for this reason.) The real benefits would be the 2D/3D acceleration and Mobile DDR rather than SDRAM.

GP's expressed that it's likely they'll switch to a D-Pad for the XGP due to huge support for it, and lower cost. This may also be the case with a 4:3 display rather than a 16:9 one. They are also considering switching the VRender-3D chipset for a more advanced Samsung one with a 266 Mhz base clockrate (ARM926EJ-S), AFP9 Floating point/Vector processor (nearly as fast as the GP2X's main CPU on its own), a programmable 16-bit DSP, and the same 2D/3D accelerator unit.

Assuming they offer Linux for the machines (it looks like they will; the site lists GPOS, Linux and Windows CE as an option) any GP2X program could feasibly be ported, and it'd be extremely easy to do so.

Good news. Faster, D-pad, compatability, 4:3. Like it.

 

[Lint]

The word is "didactical" (according to Google) - meaning "morally instructive" - is this what you meant?

If you do the mod, even one which isn't installed on the GP2x itself (ie make a standalone one) you will see how good it responds, you could then make a proper one onto the GP2x if you want to.

Surely making a D-pad with my instructions, stand alone, to test it, is hardly difficult; and then you could make a less "ugly" version :huh: . Look at the pic below - what is "ugly" about it?

didactical would be something like learnful/instructive
something that you read/see and learn with it, as we learned how someone can install a d-pad on a stick based hh
so I think there's nothing to do with moral, but a lot with instructive

probably by playing in a d-padded gp2x would convince a lot of people into doing that, but it's quite a high price to pay (ending up with a unsticked and un-d-padded gp2x) for something that you still don't know for sure if it will do good and also as good as yours

perhaps the axis printed/pressed on the pad would help a lot, but the main problem is the d-pad square base in my opinion... you know that beauty is an abstract concept, so other people may think different, does the black painting on your handheld seems to be as equal as the original black painting on the console?

would be any problem into covering the "gp2x" logo so it remains visible after painting the d-pad? (I think that's because the new painting would become too visible, perhaps?)

somebody found sometime ago the original gp2x stick (I think, not sure) replace unit to sale on internet, having one of this would make people feel a hell lot more safer so they could take the stock gp2x back, and by easing the d-pad installing proccess people would try to make it with a more stock-wise feel

last but not least, can you see any glue left over your gp2x screen?

oh yeah
and I would probably add that microcontroller to simulate the centre push if the pad is all-directions-pushable, but that's just for me that already have microcontrollers readly at hand, so it's easier to do that than to install a new button and/or update all the software

 

[semyaza]

hmm.. this place is getting weird land unfriendly ately.

Anyway, my thoughts. I love my gp2x it goes everywhere with me but I am not keen on the existing stick The replacement that came with it was a big improvement but the problem with it is as mentioned already is it's hard to swing back from say right to left. I have been playin neogeo games and with games like blazing star and KOF or ninja showdown is you cant react fast enough, unless thats my age. I am also a tall person with hands to match.

I am not keen on modding mine as I am so useless when it comes to anything DIY I wouldn't trust myself. I also probably wouldnt pay to have it modded either so I would put up with it. However something which I have thought about for quite a while now that I am not sure has been mentioned and could I think be done easily is a longer stick kind ofl like (best I could find )

Forget the bottom bit I just mean the actual toggle bit. Would it not be easier to create something like that. I think that would be great as it will be just a slot in replacement for the traditional round stick to a long stick. The only prblem I can think is putting to much pressure on and breakling it but with a stick like that I could probably also use it with my thumb and forefinger, erm if is was stuck to the table, or whatever. I would also know exactly which direction I am moving too.

 

[kevcal]

I'm surprised so many people voted that they are happy with the current stick. I wish you lot would speak up in the forums when everyone else seems to say it sucks.

I have always stated that I'm happy with the current joystick - nothing else to say :blink:
Looks to me that at the moment 25% are happy - I would guess most people don't feel strongly enough to vote - therefore you'll always have a weighted response towards the nay-sayers unfortunately.
Obviously some aren't happy - fair enough - we're all different; good luck to the modders!
I've never been a fan of d-pads; maybe it's dependant on what games you like to play?
It's not something I'm going to lose any sleep over anyway

 

[bacteria]

hmm.. this place is getting weird land unfriendly ately.

Anyway, my thoughts. I love my gp2x it goes everywhere with me but I am not keen on the existing stick The replacement that came with it was a big improvement but the problem with it is as mentioned already is it's hard to swing back from say right to left. I have been playin neogeo games and with games like blazing star and KOF or ninja showdown is you cant react fast enough, unless thats my age. I am also a tall person with hands to match.

I am not keen on modding mine as I am so useless when it comes to anything DIY I wouldn't trust myself. I also probably wouldnt pay to have it modded either so I would put up with it. However something which I have thought about for quite a while now that I am not sure has been mentioned and could I think be done easily is a longer stick kind ofl like (best I could find )

Forget the bottom bit I just mean the actual toggle bit. Would it not be easier to create something like that. I think that would be great as it will be just a slot in replacement for the traditional round stick to a long stick. The only prblem I can think is putting to much pressure on and breakling it but with a stick like that I could probably also use it with my thumb and forefinger, erm if is was stuck to the table, or whatever. I would also know exactly which direction I am moving too.

:lol: :lol: :lol: The pic is a 2 way on/off switch, it isn't a joystick! (sorry, had to :lol: )

A longer stick would be even worse, even more play than the stock one. If you really want to do this, use the inside tube part of a biro; make the end a little bigger; pop off the stock joystick and squeeze the tube on - cut to length you want. Strengthen it by covering it with a sticky label wrapped around the tube.

@Lint - of course paint has a different texture to shiny smooth plastic so looks different unless you cover the whole surface in same. No, no glue on the case - no glue was used on the case in the first place (where does it show this on the guide?). If you have the ability to make a small board with a microcontroller, why do you consider making a very simple D-pad is so difficult - PS my design doesn't even need one, as you can't press all directions at the same time, so isn't relevant to my design. As the saying goes, RTFM! (thought I should indicate that I am jesting). You don't have to destroy the stick (as covered in previous posts) - raise the area (as covered in previous posts), then there is no need to damage the GP2x - if you decide not to keep the D-pad and go back to the way you were then, lift off the assembly (the foam pads pry up easily and pop your joystick cap back on - then you are back to that lousy joystick again! :lol: :lol:

 

[semyaza]

:lol: :lol: :lol: The pic is a 2 way on/off switch, it isn't a joystick! (sorry, had to :lol: )

A longer stick would be even worse, even more play than the stock one. If you really want to do this, use the inside tube part of a biro; make the end a little bigger; pop off the stock joystick and squeeze the tube on - cut to length you want. Strengthen it by covering it with a sticky label wrapped around the tube.

Like i said, becoming unfreindly round here.

I didnt say it was a joystick, I know it's a switch. Just the actual switch for use as a joystick. Ok a better example I just remembered.

I had one of these as a kid. You can get your thumb around the joystick. The current pad tries to be a dpad but in stick format. You cant be quick with it as you feel like you should be pressing whereas you need to be pushing the stick. With a narrow stick I think you could be more accurate as you know which way you are pushing.

The biro example sounds interesting I may try it to see what happens.

 

[Lint]

@Lint - of course paint has a different texture to shiny smooth plastic so looks different unless you cover the whole surface in same. No, no glue on the case - no glue was used on the case in the first place (where does it show this on the guide?). If you have the ability to make a small board with a microcontroller, why do you consider making a very simple D-pad is so difficult - PS my design doesn't even need one, as you can't press all directions at the same time, so isn't relevant to my design. As the saying goes, RTFM! (thought I should indicate that I am jesting). You don't have to destroy the stick (as covered in previous posts) - raise the area (as covered in previous posts), then there is no need to damage the GP2x - if you decide not to keep the D-pad and go back to the way you were then, lift off the assembly (the foam pads pry up easily and pop your joystick cap back on - then you are back to that lousy joystick again! :lol: :lol:

I don't know exactly what _exactly_ is that "paper masking tape", but if it is what I think it is, at least here in the third world does leave glue where you applied before... but perhaps we're talking about different brands or different tapes, who knows? and I'm not talking about liquid glue, I'm talking about the glue that shall come already applied on one side of that tape

also I don't have to have a board, I just have to have a microcontroller, it takes no other piece aside the mcu (1.7 ~ 5v powered, self clocked, makes it easier than drilling the case in my case) :rolleyes:

last but not least forgive that I don't read every single post on this forum, it takes more time and work for me to read as english is not my primary language