Brand new 1GHz - can't charge via AC adapter

[TrashyMG]

USB charging needs full power, it's unlikely you can charge by plugging it into your PC.

 

Hmm I have always seem to charge fine via USB from my laptop/desktop. I actually stopped carrying around my Wall charger as I always have my laptop and USB cable handy.

 

[ingoreis]

I'm not sure I follow, Ingo; I don't recognise those settings, and my Pandora's always charged from mini-USB just fine (from a 2A wall wart).

Yes it work,thats right.

Without activated USB-Networking,TV-Out will the Pandora Charge slightly faster when in Standby Mode.

When i activate StandBy Mode here then will the USB-OTG and TV-Out be still stay active while "StandBy"

 

[levi]

Ah it's the setting of 'USB networking' I don't recognise; maybe you mean 'USB host'.  Yes, turning that and TV-out, wifi etc. off will reduce the system power, and thus make charging faster (or possible at all if your USB connection isn't providing enough current).

Regarding standby mode, I can't talk about USB OTG as I don't use that myself, but I know TV out is disabled in standby mode.  I don't know about low power mode however, which is what happens when you switch the power switch right and the system is on charge - that's a different system configuration than pushing the switch right when on battery.

 

[WizardStan]

Hmm I have always seem to charge fine via USB from my laptop/desktop. I actually stopped carrying around my Wall charger as I always have my laptop and USB cable handy.

Your laptop is allowing the USB port to operate out of spec then. It may work, it probably works on a lot more computers than I give credit for, but if someone is saying they're having charging problems where the charge LED comes on for only a second when plugging it in that's going to be my first guess, that the system they've plugged into is adhering to USB standard and cutting off the current when it goes too high.

 

[notaz]

I wouldn't say it's going grossly over the spec, it tries to limit itself to ~500mA on latest firmwares (older ones did ~700mA or so). There is a missing part though where it's supposed to negotiate with the host before starting to draw current, but my Android phone also does the same (i.e. just sucks it without negotiating anything).

 

[HelenF]

When I go to charge via USB I will insert the cable and the red light will show and then it will go out as I fully insert the plug.

Both of mine do that quite often, whether I plug into a computer or a USB wall charger. But when I unplug and replug it, it works the second or third time.

Another question, if I am going to just charging via the USB port do I need to be wary of completely draining the battery? I thought I read something about that...

I think it just takes longer (feels like forever) to charge from nothing with USB. It may take a while for anything to happen. I could be wrong, since this is based on my possibly faulty memories of when I did it.

When I completely drained my Pandora with a broken power connector, I couldn't get it to charge over USB at all, though I unplugged and replugged it a few times and left it for a few hours. Since I had two, I got out of this situation by swapping the batteries.

 

[rygD]

Another question, if I am going to just charging via the USB port do I need to be wary of completely draining the battery? I thought I read something about that...

I think it just takes longer (feels like forever) to charge from nothing with USB. It may take a while for anything to happen. I could be wrong, since this is based on my possibly faulty memories of when I did it.

When I completely drained my Pandora with a broken power connector, I couldn't get it to charge over USB at all, though I unplugged and replugged it a few times and left it for a few hours. Since I had two, I got out of this situation by swapping the batteries.

I think it took several hours before anything happened for me, most of the day as I recall.  There may have been other factors.  I might try it again to verify.

 

[WizardStan]

There is a missing part though where it's supposed to negotiate with the host before starting to draw current, but my Android phone also does the same

This is what I meant about overspec, if the device tries to draw more than 100ma without negotiating it then the computer is well within its right to deny the power.I can't charge off one of my PCs either, the charge LED flickers on for a moment and then it goes back to discharging. That's why I suggested checking with an USB wall charger before assuming it just didn't work, I've got first hand experience.