Need information for a repair.

[Kelvin]

I need to know the dimensions of the screws found in those little wells on the back of the casing. Actually, a list of all the parts would be super useful, but those three screws are the most important part at this point. See, they're stripped, and I've tried everything I can think of to get them out short of hotgluing a screwdriver to them, since I'm afraid the glue would stick to the walls of the well, too. So I need to know the sizes, because at this point, I think my only option is to break them down and replace them.

Now, I've posted a previous topic about getting my unit fixed, but the problem is I haven't actually had a chance to send it in yet, and with the way things are going for me, absurd as it sounds, I probably won't be able to for the forseeable future. I would just drop it in the box, but there's these customs forms I have to fill out in order to send it, and there's numbers this thing is asking for that I've never heard of, let alone know what to put in, and I'm afraid they won't let me send it without them, and I never get off work in time to visit the post office during operating hours to ask and they don't have anyone there on the weekends. I would look online, but none of the sources I've found explain these darn things.

So, yeah, if anyone knows where I can get info on parts so I can replace them, that'd be great. I've already done repair work on my own Dingoo, so I think I can reattach a screen cable myself if I have a means to close it back up again. There is one thing I have a problem with, though, and that's the screen half itself; I can't open it because of those little notches that fit into the casing around the edge of the face, so I'm not sure how to get it open without breaking it.

 

[Hồng Thất Công]

Wow!  That's a lot of words for couple of screws.  I generally don't give a damn about these screws and just yank the case out and use bigger screws and forced them in. Works like a charm for me

 

[elw3]

Jup same here. 

And for the Display: I am afraid you have to bend it till it pops out. You better watch the dissasembly video before, that is vital. 

 

[Kelvin]

Sounds too rough. I'd rather not risk breaking this thing, what with not being able to get a new one.

 

[elw3]

Its just the case, there are plenty on stock in the shop. 

 

[TrashyMG]

Wow!  That's a lot of words for couple of screws.  I generally don't give a damn about these screws and just yank the case out and use bigger screws and forced them in. Works like a charm for me

Jup same here. 

Okay... Note to self, I know two people I won't trust to fix my electronic devices. 


I'm not sure about the screw sizes but replacement case parts can be found here, included on the page link below is a bundle that has the screws.:

https://www.dragonbox.de/en/16-pandora?p=2

 

[Hồng Thất Công]

Heh, I've taken my 3 Pandoras apart and fixed/modified them countless of times from replacing lcd cables to replacing touch screen layer, to removing bad nubs and replaced with good nubs, internal usb wifi mod, etc.  All done sucessfully.  Of course when I said "yank" I meant to gently force the bottom part of the case to sparate from the top part due to those stuck screws (and of course you have to unscrew them all the way first).

 

[elw3]

The orginal screws are not exactly optimal anyway.

 

[Grench]

Whether the screw heads are stripped or the threads into the casing are stripped, an 'easy out' should be able to extract them.

http://www.amazon.com/pcs-Easy-Out-Set-TAIE0739/dp/B0027B5GT0

 

[Kelvin]

Whether the screw heads are stripped or the threads into the casing are stripped, an 'easy out' should be able to extract them.

http://www.amazon.com/pcs-Easy-Out-Set-TAIE0739/dp/B0027B5GT0

So, I attach this to a drill, then just go all the way down or something? I've seen something like these that work by drilling in a hole, then using a cone bit to stick into the screw and pull it out, but these don't have that cone bit, and the ones I've seen that do are all too large.

 

[edgex004]

Whether the screw heads are stripped or the threads into the casing are stripped, an 'easy out' should be able to extract them.

http://www.amazon.com/pcs-Easy-Out-Set-TAIE0739/dp/B0027B5GT0

So, I attach this to a drill, then just go all the way down or something? I've seen something like these that work by drilling in a hole, then using a cone bit to stick into the screw and pull it out, but these don't have that cone bit, and the ones I've seen that do are all too large.

I believe the bits in that link are the same idea. They are reverse threaded, so you drill into them in the direction that will remove the screw (counter-clockwise). As you drill with these bits, they should grip the head of the screw and cause it to rotate out.

I have used them before, and they were a saving grace, but can be tricky. As you said, you need to create hole in your screw head that these bits will fit into.

 

[b_o_b]

Sorry for bumping this thread, but I am also looking for the exact size/type of the screws needed for the Pandora.
Want to replace some screws and mainly miss the longer two on the back (below battery lid). I've seen a post from @levi mentioning they are probably all M2.5 but haven't seen any confirmation or length.
Not sure if my pandora's have original screws and most of the screws are slightly stripped and don't keep the cases tightly closed. I don't want to check them without having spares certainly not after I broke one of my crews during testing.
Luckily that was in a Pandora with broken LCD connector that I don't use.

If nobody knows I will check with ED.

 

[levi]

On consideration, I don't think they're M machine screws after all, they're plastic self-tappers as they should be, which are basically the same as wood self-tappers or indeed chipboard screws. But I'm still using those M2.5 screws to replace those I stripped trying to get the originals out of my Pandora on my unit and they've been holding it tight since I installed them, and have gone back out and in a couple of times as I tried to install a new LCD cable then discovered the short in the LCD connector, but they probably required the hole to be bored properly by the action of the self-tappers originally, and the walls to have been weakened by the threads.

 

[b_o_b]

Thanks - good info. Would be nice to have the 'official' details so will PM ED. Hope he has some time to respond to this easy question.