Me Doing Bacteria's D-pad Mod

[quadomatic]

I just finished doing the soldering part of Bacteria's Dpad mod. This is a very nasty soldering job (first soldering job of mine).



My iron had trouble melting the solder on the pins sometimes. I added lead solder, but I think the solder on the GP2X could be lead free. I only have a 15 watt iron. The wires are stuck in, but I guess we'll find out if the connections are actually good....



EDIT: Thumbnailed image. - Chip

 

[cherrycyanide]

I say if it work its a good job. EIther way it looks better than what I think I could do.

 

[quadomatic]

Not good...I got to the point where you're supposed to test the directions using the orange wire. None of them worked! I tested with a multimeter and...I guess this is kind of odd, but actually I think this is good, all of the wires and joints and aluminum arrows and such had continuity with the orange wire. So I assume that would mean that the joints I soldered, despite how ugly they are, are good since it would mean that the solder, or the wire, managed to bond with the actual pin properly.

Or, the obvious possibility could be that I soldered the wires to the wrong points, and that the rotation I assumed was wrong (the guide was made using an MK1. Since MK2 had the joystick rotated 45 degrees from MK1's position, I rotated the diagram 45 degrees in the opposite direction):



So...why is it that this doesn't work? Maybe my solder joints are actually bad? Or maybe just the joint for the orange wire is bad? Please help!!!

Maybe I should ask Bacteria?

UPDATE: sent Bacteria an email through forum, hopefully he sees it.

BTW: If you're wondering how I differentiated between the wires and where to put them, I put bits of masking tape at the other end of the wires. Certain number of pieces of masking tape corresponds to different colored wire.



Edit: Thumbnailed image - Chip

 

[quadomatic]

I remember that when I clipped the joystick, it looked like the whole joystick thing was busted afterwards; the piece that was still connected was all wobbly and wouldn't push in any direction anymore. I tried yanking the whole joystick nub out after that but couldn't. Could that be why this isn't working?

I tried taking a small piece of wire and made connections between the arrows in case I made wires at the wrong pins, and one of the arrows was actually the wire that should've been the orange wire. None of that worked...if it turns out that the above pin layout is actually the correct one, I guess i'm going to have to do some desoldering and solder the wires back on.

Damn...I wish my iron was able to melt the solder on the gp2x better...I really do think that the solder on it is lead-free. I only have a 15watt iron.

 

[mrsnature]

That pin layout diagram you are referencing is for the MK1! So you don't need to rotate it...

I tried making my own dpad mod, and after i couldn't get it to work I ended up buying a new joystick assembly and soldering it back

 

[quadomatic]

That pin layout diagram you are referencing is for the MK1! So you don't need to rotate it...

I tried making my own dpad mod, and after i couldn't get it to work I ended up buying a new joystick assembly and soldering it back

Yeah, that's what I'm saying. It's for MK1, but I'm using an MK2.

UPDATE: Ah, I see the typo I made.

I would consider replacing the joystick assembly I suppose...but where would I even buy one? I would think it would be harder to get a hold of a joystick assembly than it would be for me to get a joystick cap. I'd probably be better off just trying to figure out what's wrong with this; in the case that I can't get it to work, I could just solder the D-Pad PCB from a Game Boy Advance to the GP2X...though I don't know if I have a dremel to cut out a D-Pad in the case. I could probably use the soldering iron and a piece of metal to carve/melt one though...

 

[mrsnature]

I found the soldering the wires to the terminals fine, once you know which way they go... find a picture of a MK1 mobo and see where the holes are (that the plastic pegs on the joystick assembly go) and see how you have to rotate them. My soldering worked fine and it looked worse than yours!

Personally, I just had difficulty getting the gamecube d-pad PCB fitting properly without bias in my gp2x, and in the end gave up...shame i'd already dremelled a big hole in the case though! I managed to find a supplyer of cheap custom plastic discs though that fitted and covered up the hole perfectly.

Oh, in the uk rsonline sell the joystick assembly (if it comes to that!) check my older posts.

I would consider replacing the joystick assembly I suppose...but where would I even buy one? I would think it would be harder to get a hold of a joystick assembly than it would be for me to get a joystick cap. I'd probably be better off just trying to figure out what's wrong with this; in the case that I can't get it to work, I could just solder the D-Pad PCB from a Game Boy Advance to the GP2X...though I don't know if I have a dremel to cut out a D-Pad in the case. I could probably use the soldering iron and a piece of metal to carve/melt one though...

I remember that when I clipped the joystick, it looked like the whole joystick thing was busted afterwards; the piece that was still connected was all wobbly and wouldn't push in any direction anymore. I tried yanking the whole joystick nub out after that but couldn't. Could that be why this isn't working?

oh i just realised you haven't actually removed the joystick assembly like I did...

I guess if it's broken then it might be shorting across a couple of the pins and stopping it working.

 

[quadomatic]

I found the soldering the wires to the terminals fine, once you know which way they go... find a picture of a MK1 mobo and see where the holes are (that the plastic pegs on the joystick assembly go) and see how you have to rotate them. My soldering worked fine and it looked worse than yours!

Personally, I just had difficulty getting the gamecube d-pad PCB fitting properly without bias in my gp2x, and in the end gave up...shame i'd already dremelled a big hole in the case though! I managed to find a supplyer of cheap custom plastic discs though that fitted and covered up the hole perfectly.

Oh, in the uk rsonline sell the joystick assembly (if it comes to that!) check my older posts.

I would consider replacing the joystick assembly I suppose...but where would I even buy one? I would think it would be harder to get a hold of a joystick assembly than it would be for me to get a joystick cap. I'd probably be better off just trying to figure out what's wrong with this; in the case that I can't get it to work, I could just solder the D-Pad PCB from a Game Boy Advance to the GP2X...though I don't know if I have a dremel to cut out a D-Pad in the case. I could probably use the soldering iron and a piece of metal to carve/melt one though...

I remember that when I clipped the joystick, it looked like the whole joystick thing was busted afterwards; the piece that was still connected was all wobbly and wouldn't push in any direction anymore. I tried yanking the whole joystick nub out after that but couldn't. Could that be why this isn't working?

oh i just realised you haven't actually removed the joystick assembly like I did...

I guess if it's broken then it might be shorting across a couple of the pins and stopping it working.


Hmmm....that's not good...

Could I just desolder the joystick piece and solder the wires directly to the pads in which the joystick assembly had been put? It's not like I need to assembly anymore...sure I'll have to desolder the wires, but w/e...not really a big deal. I'd rather have a working D-Pad first...

 

[Orkie]

Try not to have so much wire exposed. If you have trouble melting old solder in the future, adding a tiny bit of new stuff will often help to get the old stuff going. Of course it might be too late now to repair the damage.

 

[astro]

Another GP2X destroyed. :rolleyes:

 

[quadomatic]

Of course it might be too late now to repair the damage.

You mean the damage on the joystick assembly from when I clipped the stick?

But can't I just desolder the assembly and solder the wires directly to the pads at which the joystick sat? Isn't that how people did D-Pad mods with GBA parts anyways?

I don't think there's any damage aside from the messed up assembly. I doubt heat did much (the brown residue is just rosin core flux right?), especially since I'm using only a 15 watt iron (though my middle finger on my left hand would disagree with the idea that the iron isn't hot...damn that thing burns like hell). And I don't think I lifted any pads or anything of that nature. Even if I did couldn't I solder to the traces?

 

[palmertech]

Sounds like you have a short. Can you still use the joystick to navigate? Try opening a rom in pocketsnes, and tell me what happens. I could do the mod for you, but it sounds like you are a DIY guy yourself.

You are able to solder to the pads where the joystick is, but abandon all hope of soldering to the traces if you lift a pad. Several of those directions go to the midboard layer.

 

[Orkie]

According to ED, the stick is soldered to layers inside the PCB and it is very easy to destroy these simply by applying a little too much heat and there is no known fix.

 

[palmertech]

There actually is... but it is expeerts only, plan on breaking at least 4-5 mobos before getting it down right. You need to rewire all the top layer traces in the area with wire, then push a small needle into the mid layer trace. Done it myself! Dont try this at home, kids....

 

[quadomatic]

Sounds like you have a short. Can you still use the joystick to navigate? Try opening a rom in pocketsnes, and tell me what happens. I could do the mod for you, but it sounds like you are a DIY guy yourself.

You are able to solder to the pads where the joystick is, but abandon all hope of soldering to the traces if you lift a pad. Several of those directions go to the midboard layer.

The joystick actually can't even move anymore. After I snipped it, the joystick piece itself was very wobbly, and but I can't actually move it in any direction. It's just stuck in the center. I tried yanking it out with pliers, but that didn't work...in fact I'd bet it made things worse.

Orkie: http://www.gp32x.de/board/index.php?showt...41447&st=15

Soldering to the pads after removing the joystick apparently does work.

Does anyone else think the idea of the joystick assembly causing a short is plausible? I think it makes sense since there is continuity between all the points. Does anyone think its possible that my pin diagram was incorrect? That thread mentions something about a ground wire, but I think that's different because he's using a separate D-Pad PCB.

 

[mrsnature]

The joystick has two connections to ground (on opposite sides). You only need to use one on your dpad mod. Try snipping the joystick assembly off by carefully cutting each pin with wire cutters, then you don't need to desolder it. I.e. cut right close to the joystick assembly, leaving the pins still stuck through the PCB.

 

[quadomatic]

The joystick has two connections to ground (on opposite sides). You only need to use one on your dpad mod. Try snipping the joystick assembly off by carefully cutting each pin with wire cutters, then you don't need to desolder it. I.e. cut right close to the joystick assembly, leaving the pins still stuck through the PCB.

I see. Sadly my wire cutters are enormous. How much space is there between the assembly and the pcb anyways?

If I desolder will I not be able to put in the dpad?

 

[mrsnature]

Oh the space is quite tiny. I used toenail nail cutters actually :rolleyes: Its just easier than desolding it

It is possible to desolder it but I would reccommend using desoldering braid if you have some, it's hard to do a good job otherwise.

Although many people have said the PCB is quite delicate, I managed to remove the joystick assembly, solder new wires, remove those wires, resolder a new joystick assembly, find that it was faulty, desolder it, and resolder a new one on again....and it works as good as new!

The joystick has two connections to ground (on opposite sides). You only need to use one on your dpad mod. Try snipping the joystick assembly off by carefully cutting each pin with wire cutters, then you don't need to desolder it. I.e. cut right close to the joystick assembly, leaving the pins still stuck through the PCB.

I see. Sadly my wire cutters are enormous. How much space is there between the assembly and the pcb anyways?

If I desolder will I not be able to put in the dpad?

 

[quadomatic]

Oh the space is quite tiny. I used toenail nail cutters actually :rolleyes: Its just easier than desolding it

It is possible to desolder it but I would reccommend using desoldering braid if you have some, it's hard to do a good job otherwise.

Although many people have said the PCB is quite delicate, I managed to remove the joystick assembly, solder new wires, remove those wires, resolder a new joystick assembly, find that it was faulty, desolder it, and resolder a new one on again....and it works as good as new!

The joystick has two connections to ground (on opposite sides). You only need to use one on your dpad mod. Try snipping the joystick assembly off by carefully cutting each pin with wire cutters, then you don't need to desolder it. I.e. cut right close to the joystick assembly, leaving the pins still stuck through the PCB.

I see. Sadly my wire cutters are enormous. How much space is there between the assembly and the pcb anyways?

If I desolder will I not be able to put in the dpad?



Wow, I didn't think it would be possible to desolder without desoldering braid anyways. So yeah, I do have desoldering braid. I used some when I was soldering the wires on since there was some excess solder making it difficult to get the wire on.

I don't think I'd be able to do much damage on my GP2X via heat since mine is only a 15-watt iron from Radioshack. 15-Watt irons are pretty cold to start with, but Radioshack irons don't even stay above 500 degrees a lot of the time. They peak at, say, 530 degrees (thats Fahrenheit btw, not Celsius, but you all probably knew that. For the record though, I prefer to metric system).

 

[quadomatic]

Bump for help?