Closer To The Final Replacement Of Stick


If i am correct, the stock stick will have to be dissasembled (leaving the base, as shown in previous pic), and Radeks contact pcb will sit on that. The logic board it then mounted to oposite side of the board.

I could be wrong though.. I put the gamecube pad in my gp2x, and completely removed the stock stick.
 
Epicenter posted on May 5 2006 at 03:39 AM said:
Wait; how could this D-Pad sit on top of the stick? Is this just a pad that physically rests on the OUTSIDE of the '2x? Wouldn't that be rather ugly and a little cumbersome next to say, an integrated pad? .. In what ways would this be a superior solution to the method Bacteria preaches of mounting a GBA or NGC D-Pad into the machine with leads soldered to the board?

Just NO!

Look:
exp0nh.jpg


The GP2x's stick has two parts - the top and the bottom. The top can be removed and the bottom will serve as mounting socket for the new controller. That was my idea from the start as it doesn't need soldering, it's firm and stick's pins are preserved allowing solderless connecting converter.

The QD pad is as high above front panel as the rest of GP2x's buttons.

grahf posted on May 5 2006 at 03:50 AM said:
If i am correct, the stock stick will have to be dissasembled (leaving the base, as shown in previous pic), and Radeks contact pcb will sit on that. The logic board it then mounted to oposite side of the board.

I could be wrong though.. I put the gamecube pad in my gp2x, and completely removed the stock stick.

Yes - it's the way I'm doing it. Unfortunatelly the stick's base is minimally too high so it must be lowered a bit (to be able close GP2x's case without tension). That is all.

edit: Two more pictures to make all this clear:
11ss3.jpg

and
26th.jpg


The plastic part is polymorph one and I had some problems casting it.
(read - I need the additional stick base for that and I'm going to get such one soon)
The part fits into stick's base as plug and the rest of the dpad is bolted to that plastic plug.

The minor problem is that the stick base (the "socket") is somewhat too high and have to be lowered by around 0.5mm. Not big deal just needs some more sanding.
(easy compared to the drilling of the front panel)

But the benefits are:
- solderless
- firm mounting
- no risk of damaging GP2x's mainboard
- minimal number of parts (5 actually for the whole mod)

I hope that all will be clear now. Anyway feel free to ask for anything, to have suggestions or to criticize. I welcome that all.

Another edit:

I was using 1mm PCB for dpad's contacts. If I could get the 0.5mm one then it should fit without any extra sanding.
 
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Radek posted on May 4 2006 at 08:58 PM said:
(easy compared to the drilling of the front panel)

You keep saying that, what concerns me is what exactly you mean.

Do you mean to say that the QD pad fits inside the hole already in the GP2X?

great work btw :)

thanks gp32_console
 
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Okey Doo I want two kits. That's a definate order.

I don't quite understand the sanding of the joystick socket part - by the look of your picture the plastic insert sits slightly higher than the socket - but it's probably me not understanding properly. :)

BTW the plastic insert would probably be easier/cheaper if u had it machined, I asume it could be round as long as it's a tight fit.

Once again RADEK, this is excellent work - GURU status was definately deserved.
 
nubie posted on May 5 2006 at 08:01 AM said:
Radek posted on May 4 2006 at 08:58 PM said:
(easy compared to the drilling of the front panel)

You keep saying that, what concerns me is what exactly you mean.

Do you mean to say that the QD pad fits inside the hole already in the GP2X?

Yes and long time ago. I showed that, didn't I? If not then sorry and:
d10ka.jpg

closer to the QD:
d27bi.jpg


The QD dpad fits as it should. The problem is that whole construct (the stick base, contact PCB and the shim plus QD itself) is a bit too high INSIDE the GP2x. So case can not be closed without tension - the solution is to use thinner PCB for contact pads or lower the sides of stick's base.

You can see it yourself:
d36st.jpg


and for full info the more close shots of the QD dpad itself:
(and why it is so convenient)
d48bj.jpg


saboteur posted on May 5 2006 at 09:19 AM said:
Okey Doo I want two kits. That's a definate order.

I don't quite understand the sanding of the joystick socket part - by the look of your picture the plastic insert sits slightly higher than the socket - but it's probably me not understanding properly. :)

I didn't push it down fully - I wanted to get it back. :)
Those pictures are just to show an idea.

saboteur posted on May 5 2006 at 09:19 AM said:
BTW the plastic insert would probably be easier/cheaper if u had it machined, I asume it could be round as long as it's a tight fit.

Imho no. The best way is to cast polymorph plug using the actual stick's base as the mold. But for that I need the extra stick as making it using the one built in my GP2x isn't too practical obviously.

The polymorph can glue strongly to the PCB as well. I was testing screws on it too. It's strong enough and it casts ideally.

saboteur posted on May 5 2006 at 09:19 AM said:
Once again RADEK, this is excellent work - GURU status was definately deserved.

It's all crazy to think about all it now... I wasn't expecting that I will be doing any hardware mods for GP2x. Just wanted some handheld to relax with but it ended somewhat differently. :p

I hope that I gave you enough informations/pictures now. Asks anyway if something isn't clear - I will try to answer as best I can.
 
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Radek posted on May 5 2006 at 01:55 PM said:
I hope that I gave you enough informations/pictures now. Asks anyway if something isn't clear - I will try to answer as best I can.
It looks better every time I see it!
 
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Just don't tell me we have to buy&brake a NGage for this mod :D

Looks really cool... I am definitly considering to get this mod when ED sells it. But I will wait for a review comparing it to DaveCs cap (which I currently have).
 
Will this fit without incident on Non-First Edition GP2X units? To my understanding, the PCB is slightly offset in the first edition. Hopefully this will not cause any mounting issues.

Is the stick base metal or plastic? Sanding down 0.5mm of metal may be a real challenge without a power tool which I'd have to borrow from someone. Sanding paper would not work?
 
FluffyPanda posted on May 5 2006 at 03:05 PM said:
Now that you've sourced more of the components, any updated ideas on what the final price is likely to be?

In range of 25-35$ including everything. Perhaps less.
(the PCB will have solder mask)

Final price will be set when the ED will get the final units. :)

Julius posted on May 5 2006 at 03:57 PM said:
Just don't tell me we have to buy&brake a NGage for this mod :D

You don't have too. Look at the ebay.com - there are QD keypads including dpads. I can buy them from UK for 2 pounds. If you can for less then better for you - installing QD is trivial. You will able to chose unit without the QD element.

Julius posted on May 5 2006 at 03:57 PM said:
Looks really cool... I am definitly considering to get this mod when ED sells it. But I will wait for a review comparing it to DaveCs cap (which I currently have).

Yes - very wise. I'd prefer to send few units to the ED first. Not that I wasn't testing my mod for hours but I have only one GP2x for that obviously.
For comparing it too caps you can do it already - just get Nokia QD for a moment.

There is possibilty of mounting other dpads as well. I got QD because of suggestions what I had been getting and it's simplicity to implement. That doesn't mean better dpads aren't possible.

The good thing is that every four switch based will work with my converter.

Epicenter posted on May 5 2006 at 06:24 PM said:
Will this fit without incident on Non-First Edition GP2X units? To my understanding, the PCB is slightly offset in the first edition. Hopefully this will not cause any mounting issues.

As long it's only slightly it should. The MK2 will require some changes in my converter.

Epicenter posted on May 5 2006 at 06:24 PM said:
Is the stick base metal or plastic? Sanding down 0.5mm of metal may be a real challenge without a power tool which I'd have to borrow from someone. Sanding paper would not work?

Definitely plastic and very easy to sand. Feels hard but it's quite brittle. The problem will be to not overdone it than otherwise. :)
 
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Radek posted on May 5 2006 at 10:25 AM said:
Epicenter posted on May 5 2006 at 06:24 PM said:
Will this fit without incident on Non-First Edition GP2X units? To my understanding, the PCB is slightly offset in the first edition. Hopefully this will not cause any mounting issues.

As long it's only slightly it should. The MK2 will require some changes in my converter.

If you take the first edition apart then the shifted board is your fault, if it was shifted from the factory then you can fix it.

I had a first edition, when I took it apart the board got in shifted, I was able to center it by loosening the screws and straightening the board.

Tightening the screws in a different pattern also helped me.

Edit: I see now what you mean about fitting, I guess my question then is: Does that big hole you have in yours come from drilling? Or is it what is under that "ring" around the hole in the original case front.

Basically, how come your hole is big enough to get a QD pad through?

Did you just remove the ring with the little triangles in it? And if you did, how did you do it?
 
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Edit: I see now what you mean about fitting, I guess my question then is: Does that big hole you have in yours come from drilling? Or is it what is under that "ring" around the hole in the original case front.

It's just a hole what was drilled in a place of the original one (the one for stick's bar).

Basically, how come your hole is big enough to get a QD pad through?

c8zt.jpg


Did you just remove the ring with the little triangles in it? And if you did, how did you do it?

Yes - I was using triangle shaped file (ugh - was calling that a chisel before - my mistake sorry) what have increasing diameter:
c25rq.jpg


Just putted it in original hole then was rotating it slowly pushing. After some time it drilled big enough hole for dpad.

It was easier than I thought but it needs some patience to make it slowly. Otherwise the plastic might cracks.
 
:D :D

Now it is all clear, thanks for the pics.

I have access to a machine shop, would it be easier to use a mill to put the hole in a GP2X?

I assume that if ED offers a service (or the choice when buying) that he will likely be using a drill press or a mill.
 
this is looking really great! I can't wait to order one and play it myself, the N-Gage DPad is way better than the stock Gp2x stick. I haven't decided yet if I want to go the extra mile and switch it with a GameCube or GBA D-Pad.
 
I'll be honest, I skipped many of the pages inbetween, since this thread looks mostly like a
few custom mods for the joystick...

But is anyone looking into a solution for us people that are too scared to mess with our joysticks
where we can just pop off our old joystick and put a new one on?

I ordered a 5 pack of psp directionals off ebay, and tried a quick switch... where you plug the hole
with plastic and drill a little hole to fit over the GP2X's shaft, but had found
the directional's base that fits over the metal shaft is much thinner than the ones I bought on ebay.

I tried shaving my new directional's base down a bit, but never really got it to work....

Is there anyone with a off-and-on solution for us uncreative people?
;)
 
jmetal88 posted on May 6 2006 at 03:25 AM said:
I definately want to buy one of these... Any chance of sending some to David at GP32z?

Yes of course if he will be interested. I'd prefer to sell via established shop.

invinciblegod posted on May 6 2006 at 04:21 AM said:
Wait at how are you implementing the push button for the joystick?

Logically. :)

Mine implementation of QD dpad as simple allows all four switches push down. It's interpreted by converter as center push.

dgrams2000 posted on May 6 2006 at 04:22 AM said:
I'll be honest, I skipped many of the pages inbetween, since this thread looks mostly like a
few custom mods for the joystick...

But is anyone looking into a solution for us people that are too scared to mess with our joysticks
where we can just pop off our old joystick and put a new one on?

I ordered a 5 pack of psp directionals off ebay, and tried a quick switch... where you plug the hole
with plastic and drill a little hole to fit over the GP2X's shaft, but had found
the directional's base that fits over the metal shaft is much thinner than the ones I bought on ebay.

I tried shaving my new directional's base down a bit, but never really got it to work....

Is there anyone with a off-and-on solution for us uncreative people?
;)

At the beginning I was hoping that I would find a proper 4 microswitch based stick. In looks the same as the former but with decent internals. So no special drilling would be needed just only making PCB adapters. But I couldn't find one what I'd like.

So I had to drill and was sceptical about the QD at the beginning. But was constantly asked about it so one day I decided to try it.
 
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dgrams2000 posted on May 5 2006 at 07:22 PM said:
Is there anyone with a off-and-on solution for us uncreative people?
;)

This IS an on-and-off solution, I don't know of any other solutions (ie. something that solves the problem) as simple as this.

Radek posted on May 5 2006 at 10:10 PM said:
jmetal88 posted on May 6 2006 at 03:25 AM said:
I definately want to buy one of these... Any chance of sending some to David at GP32z?

Yes of course if he will be interested. I'd prefer to sell via established shop.

I sure hope you mean that gp32z.com is an established shop, they may be a little out of the loop, but the customer service is fine and they are the official U.S. distributor after all.

If that is what you meant I apologize, I may have just misunderstood your meaning.
 
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nubie posted on May 6 2006 at 08:07 AM said:
dgrams2000 posted on May 5 2006 at 07:22 PM said:
Is there anyone with a off-and-on solution for us uncreative people?
;)

This IS an on-and-off solution, I don't know of any other solutions (ie. something that solves the problem) as simple as this.

Even better - the µC version will have two pins left to other uses. And it's reprogammable as I will be using flash based µC. Not that I will not produce the 4067 based ones as well or the my firmware is bad. Actually it's quite fast and current drain can go as low as 12µA. But I might imagine someone would like to mod the mod. :)
(there will be plenty of memory left in the µC and processing power)

There will be two converters because I was learning the whole time when I was working on this mod. And I like to experiment. What you will like more I will see. :)
(both are working well)

nubie posted on May 6 2006 at 08:07 AM said:
Radek posted on May 5 2006 at 10:10 PM said:
jmetal88 posted on May 6 2006 at 03:25 AM said:
I definately want to buy one of these... Any chance of sending some to David at GP32z?

Yes of course if he will be interested. I'd prefer to sell via established shop.

I sure hope you mean that gp32z.com is an established shop, they may be a little out of the loop, but the customer service is fine and they are the official U.S. distributor after all.

If that is what you meant I apologize, I may have just misunderstood your meaning.

Nothing to apologize for - it's exactly what I was searching for. By "established shop" I just mean a shop what was functioning before. I'm not and it's better to have someone else to handle shipping to individual customers - I'm interested in design and production as It's enough burden for me. So thank you for suggestion, I will check it!

And for really very low scale thing that my mod.is... it's perfect. And even the big companies were small at beginning. And usually they were the best then.
 
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