What have you bought recently?

@jeeks ebay is a good place to buy scrap pieces of genuine leather, anyway looking forward to the result. (And damn one of these days I'm gonna make that kimchi)
@kuru i didn't check ebay yet, but now i'll have to look into that, thanks for the tip! btw if you make the kimchi in the beginning of november, there's a chance a lot of people in seoul will make some, too (they haven't updated the page for 2018 yet, but i'm pretty sure they're doing this again) :D

EDIT: i might postpone the big bag and make a smaller one because i just dropped my pandora again and wrecked the L button, again :-|| women's pants pockets are totally unusable for bigger electronics.
Some washing up liquid.

just on my way back from the fleamarket right now and I got a few treasures:
- speaking of treasures, I got gunstar heroes for megadrive cib
- virtua racing cib (for 4 euros! wtf?)
- a few ds games (gta chinatown wars, metroid hunters, valkyria profile) and an r4 card
- dark cloud for ps2

I wanted to take shadow dancer and shining force cib from the same dude who sold me gunstar heroes, but I already spent too much, so I left them :(

EDIT: forgot a DS game
Last edited:
I decided to order a poor condition copy of a 700+ page book from the UK that is over 100 years old I have been reading as an ebook. It was pretty cheap (cheaper than a new paperback reprint), and it is a great book on ancient Greek practices and beliefs, mostly regarding religion. It also has some cool pictures.
I have recently bought a OnePlus 6 which is a fantastic phone, for the price point the specifications are future proof, meaning I can use the phone for a lot of years, since I used an iPhone 5S for the previous 5 years it does seem to be a huge transition, transition of environments, screen,software ahh so many things.
Well since my purchase of the 2005 Subaru Legacy GT a few months ago, it's been a bit of a shopping spree on that thing.

- Huge service to address the common Subaru problems, timing belt, gaskets, suspension parts... etc (no service history)
- Replaced cracked front grill
- Replaced the hood scoop for the turbo intercooler, had deep chips and scratches.
- JDM dual climate zone HVAC controller so I could install a double DIN radio as the USDM stock radio had the HVAC controls build into it and lacked MP3 playback or an AUX or other method to get my music on it.
- Android based Double DIN stereo.
- Replaced worn rubber front and rear shifter bushings with nylon ones, gives better shifting feel.
- Replaced close to fully worn clutch with a performance street clutch, required a new flywheel as well ( Dual-Mass to Single-Mass flywheel conversion).
- Replaced A/C condenser and had the system recharged.
- Cobb Accessport, used for ECU programming and dataloging, and a gauge display for boost, coolant temp, etc...
- Replaced stained rear cloth seat with the used leather seat from the limited model. sourced it on ebay for cheap.
- Leather front bucket seats were way too expensive to source, so found a place that made custom fit leather seat covers. The fitment is real good, almost hard to tell they're covers vs a stock leather seat.

So far I likely could have bought a brand new base model Kia thing for how much I've totally invested in a 13 year old car.
Last edited:
@spud42 with proper care those EJ series engine are not as bad as most make it out to be.

Sure turbo cars need a bit of extra care, as they tend to heat the oil a bit more than a typical NA vehicle. keeping the car running for a while before shutting down stems this issue a little, but changing oil at the right time is essential with them.

I've had two EJ series engined Subarus over the last 10 years, put over 100,000 miles on my first regular Impreza and didn't have any headgasket issues on that, but seen friends with ones that did. This car is a bit of an unknown, so just doing preventative care on it right now.

The new models with the FA/FB series engine have it better in sense of maintainability. Better gasket sealing, Timing chain instead of a belt.
Last edited:
i had a 180SX SR20DET 2lt turbo you guys called it 240SX and didnt get turbo... i had that car for 11 years and put 200,000 km on it... then i got a Volvo V40 also a 2lt turbo and had that for about 6 years.. both great cars and the 180 had heaps of power for a light car. but i had the head go twice in that time and the engine turbo in the volvo died and i replaced it with the sport version motor and now that has a gearbox problem and possible big end problem. now driving a 2006 suzuki swift 1.5Lt NA car... seems so slow lol
I got a Power Mac G5, the basic 2004 model, with 1.8GHz single CPU and RAM expanded to 2GB, two 80GB drives. Bought on a flea market, with intent to restore, fix and maybe trade for some other computer I don't have.
So, first tests shown that the machine is technically 100% working. However, its casing does not look well.
1. There are numerous scratches on it. Contrary to previous Macs which could be fixed with specific chemicals, this one has no polymer/plastic coating at all and removing these scratches seems to be impossible. I think that the surface of this smooth but crisp aluminum has been made by shot peening and then anodizing - process impossible to reproduce at home. And I was thinking that it was just brushing :(.
2. The handles are partially broken off the casing - on the door side, in front-bottom and rear-top. I've seen lots of these damages while looking for G5 to my collection and I was curious how they occur. So having a Mac with this damage I did a quick, simplified FEA of it :D (the best way to waste a few hours and not mine 64-core HPC workstation). Summing up - if a specific vertical stress on handles is exceeded, the handles will slide aside, acting like lever, pulling its ends (part with door) apart from chassis. The parts for screws have extremely small contact area (are they made using friction welding-like technique but with thread?) and they break off starting from handle. Analysis conclusion: Do not sit on your Power Mac G5 or Mac Pro in aluminum tower casing.
I did two different repairs of these. Generally, it's important to remove all remains of broken mounting points. I have no idea how they put these bolts in, because to remove them you need some magic screwdriver which acts in direction opposite to being lead in (read: bent 180 degrees and still rotating) but it was possible to remove bolts by rotating them very slowly using pliers. Then removing broken remains of mounting points was easier. This is important as they like to rotate in their holes and make the cover not touch the chassis.
For the bottom part, I drilled a hole in part closest to handle and, using a hole from existing mounting screw on chassis, just used a screw, nut and washer. If the drilled hole has a nicely finished edges the screw's head is flat with casing. This looks relatively nice however the screwdriver hole is visible.
For the top part I tried with "Aluminum glue" - applied yesterday, today it still does not catch. I feel that it'll end with scratching this glue out and using the previous method.

P.S. I should put such notes on some blog... they may be useful in future.

EDIT, 2018-07-04, 00:28 - I was right. Spent last 3 hours scratching glue out and drilling hole.
Last edited: