Odroid Go


@HelenF: Actually I found that the sound quality depends on the volume. There are 3 volume levels : In level 1 the quality is really bad, starting from level 2 the sound is good enough - but really loud.
Wow, you're right, the sound quality improves with volume (but level 2 is really loud).

If the speaker was the limiting factor, it would be the other way around.

Let me guess, they're using 8-bit PCM in the final output stage, so reducing the volume below maximum also reduces the bit depth to something less than that?
 
Ah, ok, now I hear the problems. Wasn't sure what I was listening for but with the suggestion that level 2 sounds better than 1 I had a second listen and can agree, it's definitely not good at level 1. Still wouldn't call it unbearable but that's just me I guess.
 
Plus his final ratio was rather different to what he'd planned. 2/6 ohm is a 1/3 ratio, so if you're using a 100-and-something resistor in place of the 2, you're max other resistor should be 597 ohms, not 800-and-something. But, eh, he was happy with the result so maybe his planed 1/3 ratio was off in the first place.

And upping the resistance wouldn't overload the amp, going too low would do that. Going overboard though would attenuate on half of the pair of signals too much though, and you'd be close to being back to a flat ground and signal line, and all of the interference and reflection problems that has.

And using SMD resistors and free soldering them to test points. OMG, but props for actually getting it to work.
 
Interesting. Aside from Doom, if you watch at 58s, you'll see he's got some boot menu that flashes on the fly!

Shame odroid.co.uk says they don't have any in until September now, and haven't found any other uk shops with it
 
The Game Boy screen is rather small without the scaling, but it looks a lot better.

Here are the details of the boot menu that flashes firmware files from SD card. (It's possible to prepare Arduino programs to be used with this menu.)
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid_go/write_app

Apparently you can change 2 resistors to reduce the volume. So then I guess you might get better sound quality at low volume. They're too small for my soldering skill though.
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid_go/silent_volume

I started looking at MicroPython, but so far it's failing at the step where I try to transfer files using rshell. Right, my version of rshell uses /flash instead of /pyboard for the special directory. Still not exactly sure about the directory structure required...
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid_go/m...etup#install_the_odroid-go_micropython_module
 
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Hmmm, odroid.co.uk now say they're in stock, but if you add it to the cart, it says it's not...
 
Got my hands on a unit, and built it this morning. I quite like it. My Go already has the boot menu to flash FW, so that's another win.
I'm now debating whether to code a "fantasy console", or learn NES or SMS development.
 
I have one, and I've already painted it a nice metallic blue. If you paint the inside shells before you assemble it, you will have a great looking unit, that won't scratch or wear away the more you use it!

Only minor nitpick issues I have with it are the sound levels as discussed, and the slight frameskipping issue with some games as well as NES screen tearing. But resoldering resistors is not a bad idea. Props for SMD, holy moly.
 
I have one, and I've already painted it a nice metallic blue. If you paint the inside shells before you assemble it, you will have a great looking unit, that won't scratch or wear away the more you use it!
Pics please! People are talking about doing similar with clear pyra cases, so I'd like to see an example of how that kind of thing might look.

Also it sounds like it might be teh sex.
 
Pics please! People are talking about doing similar with clear pyra cases, so I'd like to see an example of how that kind of thing might look.

Also it sounds like it might be teh sex.
41403488_2192856177653457_6633315974919487488_n.png
 
That does look pretty neat. Was thinking of spraying mine, but I don't know, I kinda like it as it is too.

Shame the audio level is so loud. I also had some emu issue on Xenon2 for SMS and my Mario 3 rom just crashes.

I've got some distructions on how to build .fw files, once I've got that working fine, I'm going to look at my fantasy 8 bit machine, with a libretro core too. Don't really know much about audio programming though, so might look at importing reSID or something
 
It's a shame there's basically no way to get these in the US anymore. The US shop no longer exists and the money transfer to buy it from Hardkernel adds $30 to the price.
 
It's a shame there's basically no way to get these in the US anymore. The US shop no longer exists and the money transfer to buy it from Hardkernel adds $30 to the price.
In the UK, I bought mine from Hardkernel with PayPal - is that not available now?

FedEx billed me £19.26 for tax and fees, so that made it rather more expensive than waiting for UK stock, but I don't think that would happen for the US (maybe someone can confirm either way?)
 
In the UK, I bought mine from Hardkernel with PayPal - is that not available now?

FedEx billed me £19.26 for tax and fees, so that made it rather more expensive than waiting for UK stock, but I don't think that would happen for the US (maybe someone can confirm either way?)
Yes, it is. I made a mistake. I didn't realize it was a radio button, and thought it was an international money transfer using Paypal.
 
Mine didn't cost me that much. After the FedEx bill, was about $16 Canadian, so all told I still spent less than if I had bought a Gameboy Color, Screen Mods and R4 card, plus the ability to play other emulators so still not a bad investment. The Clockwork Gameshell looks pretty rad and I can't wait until that becomes more freely available, I'd like one of those as well. I got the one I painted now from Hardkernel directly.

As far as painted mine was concerned, I recommend painting it before putting it together. The screen overlay has an adhesive backing that you don't want to ruin by taking it off after putting it on again. So if you're going to paint it, I suggest doing it right off the bat. I used painter's tape all around the outer edges and on the front on both halves of the shell, and then just spray painted the interior. Go nice and even, and it will come out looking great. You don't even have to go that thick. There is a blue LED in the front center, you will be able to see a dot on the enter of the case directly below the center screw hole between the buttons just below the screen. You can see it in the picture above, I recommend taping a small circle over that and not painting it so the LED will shine through. I didn't do that at first, so when I scratched away the paint to expose it, it doesn't look as good as if I had painted it properly.

Also, from the front, on the left side, there is a band of clear plastic next to the screen overlay that still shows transparent and I'm not sure why that is since it got painted, but it still isn't too bad. Overall, it looks better than the picture in person. I have another one on order and should be showing up in October (Because I was dumb and ordered it from another site and not HardKernel) so I may actually do a short tutorial on painting with before and after photos once I decide what color or colors I want to paint it. I'm thinking of doing something a little fancier, such as a pattern but I haven't decided yet.
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That does look pretty neat. Was thinking of spraying mine, but I don't know, I kinda like it as it is too.

Shame the audio level is so loud. I also had some emu issue on Xenon2 for SMS and my Mario 3 rom just crashes.

I've got some distructions on how to build .fw files, once I've got that working fine, I'm going to look at my fantasy 8 bit machine, with a libretro core too. Don't really know much about audio programming though, so might look at importing reSID or something

The audio output can be modded by replacing some of the SMD resistors with some of a slightly higher value. They're super stupid tiny though, so I'm not sure I'll actually get around to doing it. I might just try putting some inline resistors on the speaker wires themselves since there's a bit of slack, and you can tuck the wiring to the side of the speaker afterwards. May or may not try that out. I want to put a headphone jack in it but I haven't been able to electrically picture how to do it without impacting the speaker or headphone volume short of using a physical switch instead of the built-in one on a headphone jack. There's not much room inside for an additional PCB.
 
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