New Mod, "super Usb Pc D-pad Gaming Device"...


bacteria

Modder & Portablizer
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
Messages
1,119
Location
Hampshire, UK.
Website
moddedbybacteria.wordpress.com
Another "Blue Peter" mod...

I sent my old GP2x, which I fried, back to EvilDragon in the hope that he can make it work again and bring it back from the dead (from my "Super GP2x mod" project), I thought I would start another useful project. Although not strictly GP2x related, I hit on a good alternative to making the D-pad contacts, and very cheaply. Read on....

I want to use a standard PC keyboard for my PC gaming and applications, but when playing FPS games (FEAR, Quake 4, Doom 3, etc) it is awkward using the cursor keys on the keyboard as they are in the wrong place, and you can get RSI from using them in their positions after a while. I thought it would be fun, and practical to make my own control system by modding a USB keypad.

There is a very interesting new way to make your D-pad contacts. This is explained a bit more below...

The Trust USB keypad, I had one lying about for a couple of years, virtually unused.

k1.jpg


Remove the covers from the keypad.

k2.jpg


I was amazed to see it used acetate plastic for the contacts - sheet 1 and sheet 3 are the contacts, sheet 2 is purely a blank sheet with holes cut through for the contacts.

k3.jpg


This got me thinking, the acetate middle acts as a separator between the contacts, when the button is pressed on the keypad (which has springy keys), it presses on the top acetate, making it flex, thus making contact with the bottom sheet. So simple! This removes the need for the rubber membranes used in D-pads. You could simply use this idea, make the contacts out of aluminium foil and wired with foam pads (exactly as I did a while ago in my guide), place a D-pad top on top, and that may well be all you need to do. This would also mean that the board you would make to mount this into the GP2x would be very thin, so you would be able to make it to the right height, rather than worrying about the construction being too big as is the current issue. Being acetate, it will keep its properties for years, so be very robust. This would make a better contact system than I did with the foam pad separator I made in my old D-pad. If I need to make one again from scratch, I will use this method. It is interesting that such a system is used by a company presently for their products - proves it works.

I thought I would share these thoughts.

Anyway, back to the project, when you separate the acetates, you have direct access to the contacts. You can easily hook up external buttons, make a casing for them and customise the buttons to be in the right place. (sound familiar...?)

I think, rather than using boring old keys, I may make a D-pad as well as other buttons (for weapon selection, etc functions during the game).

I suppose I could call this a "Super USB PC D-pad gaming device"...

k4.jpg


Middle sheet removed, contacts exposed:

k5.jpg


:lol:
 
That sort of pad is meant for very limited key travel so it might not give enough when you push onto it. Those sorts of keyboards are generally laid out more like mechanical switches than carbon-coated membrane/button combos. This isn't to say it can't work, but it probably won't give enough tactile feedback.
 
Epicenter posted on Oct 9 2006 at 06:30 PM said:
That sort of pad is meant for very limited key travel so it might not give enough when you push onto it. Those sorts of keyboards are generally laid out more like mechanical switches than carbon-coated membrane/button combos. This isn't to say it can't work, but it probably won't give enough tactile feedback.
Interesting thoughts, however it must be fit for purpose as it is a commercial and widely available product. It is also ideal for modding!

My thoughts, as far as using this method for a D-pad assembly on the GP2x are:

* you don't need to scratch away a PCB to find the tracers, then find a way to solder to them securely
* you don't need to make a PCB or use an existing one - it is only acetate, aluminium foil, and wires you need. This makes the final assembly flatter than using a PCB from a commercial D-pad, so will be far easier to "close the box" - remember the problems you had with this Epicenter a while back?
* you could either use an existing D-pad and membrane (for the contact pressure) if you like, although you don't have to, or simply put a D-pad top on the acetate and if you need more pressure to make it feel right, use a slightly thicker acetate...
* being acetate, it is very tough and shouldn't faulter (hence a commercial company uses this method...)
* it is simple and reliable

The suggestion was made as an alternative to other methods available; it would be easy to make such a device.

Another thought, is that it might be possible to make your own USB device to work with BOB? That would mean you could make the GP2x, BOB and USB controls one-piece!


Update:

Connected each wire to each contact point by pressing a piece of my (now famous) self-adhesive foam pads on top of each wire, securing it in place to the acetate's metal contact. I used a piece of paper masking tape to mark on each pair of wires what the key was that it related to, otherwise it would be a nightmare pairing them up later.

k6.jpg


Peeled off the cover on the other side of the foam pads, and stuck a piece of paper onto it (so nothing makes contact with the other half of the contact sheet when closed together). Removed the covers off the other set of pads, pressed them onto the other side of the paper. Tied the cables together for neatness.

k7.jpg


Folded the end result in half, to take less space. I figured this should be fine. I then used masking tape to keep it down. There will be lots of space in the casing for everything to fit.

k8.jpg


I then plugged the USB into my computer, opened NotePad and touched each wire together. I tested that each pair of wires worked, putting their relevant "key press" onto the computer screen, meaning each contact worked. In other words, pressing the two wires which related to "2" on the keypad, results in "2" showing in NotePad on the computer screen.

Now it has been proven to work, it is a case of making the plastic case (probably from a small lunchbox), hooking up a D-pad and buttons in place. Below is a mock-up of how the end result might look like:

k9.jpg


The idea is that for FPS games, you use the mouse to direct your character and usually the mouse key to fire at your foe, but the cursor keys to move forward, backward, left and right; this can be done via a D-pad with your thumb (I will need to test this properly) and your 4 fingers to allow you to open doors, reload weapon, select another weapon, etc. I need to find a suitably sized box, and experiment with key layout. It also depends on whether EvilDragon can repair my dead GP2x as to whether I use a GamePad D-pad (if he can get the GP2x working) or the larger N64 D-pad (if he can't get the GP2x working, or it gets lost in the post).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
bacteria posted on Oct 10 2006 at 02:24 AM said:
My thoughts, as far as using this method for a D-pad assembly on the GP2x are:

* you don't need to scratch away a PCB to find the tracers, then find a way to solder to them securely
There's ways around this-- some older controllers, most notably Sega Saturn controllers, have all 5 contacts from the D-Pad (UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, Common) running to gigantic solder pads, and the DPad is even on its own little PCB.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Epicenter posted on Oct 10 2006 at 06:54 PM said:
bacteria posted on Oct 10 2006 at 02:24 AM said:
My thoughts, as far as using this method for a D-pad assembly on the GP2x are:

* you don't need to scratch away a PCB to find the tracers, then find a way to solder to them securely
There's ways around this-- some older controllers, most notably Sega Saturn controllers, have all 5 contacts from the D-Pad (UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, Common) running to gigantic solder pads, and the DPad is even on its own little PCB.
Very interesting.

I know the GameCube has its own little PCB but the contacts are hidden and you need to scratch of the coating on the board to get to the tracers; the N64 controller has everything on one board, but there are nice contact points (about 2mm diameter) to solder to easily; the motherboard needs to be cut and shaved, but no issue. You say the Sega Saturn controler is ideal for modding (reasons above) - any other controllers also good like that? Old controllers are not easy to get hold of these days, so it would be good to know what is good and what isn't...

I am still considering options - I could use a D-pad, I could use a joystick (or both) or just buttons. If EvilDragon can't repair my old GP2x (if it is only fit for the bin in other words) I will probably use the D-pad and joystick I "made earlier". It all depends ultimately on how the control system works best with my left hand. When using the GP2x, you use your thumb purely for the joystick control, and your fingers grip the GP2x. With my design for the keypad assessory, the issue is that your hand will be fairly flat, so you are using a different part of the thumb to operate the D-pad, and you need to position the buttons comfortably for the fingers, but no so that you press the buttons without intending to. It will be a trial and error project.

xcen posted on Oct 10 2006 at 06:47 PM said:
hahah man, you're crazy: I'm proud of you =)

your mods are really inspiring!
Thanks mate!

Not getting many responses to this thread, perhaps people aren't so interested in this mod?

I see this project as (to some degree) a follow on to my other project, in that the principles are similar. With this mod, being USB, it might be possible to use a similar design for a USB device for the BOB. That is the other reason I am posting about this topic - it is relevant, even though it is going to be used for my home PC.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would have thought, if you're already using a mouse for fps, you could easily make that Numpad into a WASD arrangement...
 
Aninhumer posted on Oct 11 2006 at 12:43 PM said:
I would have thought, if you're already using a mouse for fps, you could easily make that Numpad into a WASD arrangement...
The keys on the keypad are spongy and low, they are more like calculator keys than a keyboard, so if I need to replace them anyway I thought I may as well replace them with proper buttons which could be spaced to suit. I tried to use the old numpad, it not only felt a bit strange, but more crucially, I couldn't get to the other keys I needed so easily - so I needed to make it custom.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
dadioflex posted on Oct 15 2006 at 08:28 PM said:
Thanks for the thought and the link. There are various types of these USB devices, many of which try to "be clever". Problem is that you tend to get a bit of RSI from using the cursor keys on a keyboard anyway, which is even worse when the keys are straight and your hand is at an angle.

I haven't seen any commercial gaming pad which is good. If it were just a case of having a set of cursor keys to the left of the keyboard, I could have a second keyboard (USB) to the left of the main keyboard and use the cursor keys on that (I thought of this before), but it doesn't solve the other problem then of accessing (easily) adjacent keys to those cursor keys which you use for gaming keys - for example, in F.E.A.R, you use flashlight, slo-mo, crosshair and grenade functions, which you need to be next to your cursor keys on your left hand (right one uses the mouse for direction motion, fire and weapon change.

Basically, commercial gaming pads I think have bad layouts, don't serve their requirements or can't feel right - to me, the control system needs to be either D-pad or mini-joystick, and the gaming keys to be where your fingers rest naturally: thumb for D/pad/joystick, 4 buttons (extras are extras) minimum for gaming functions. That is where I came in, and why I came in, with my design and the reason for this project in the start. In the meantime, I am using a freeware program called "KeyTweak" and have re-assigned the Windows (start) key between the CTRL and ALT key as a different key ("[") so I play F.E.A.R. using the CTRL, Windows key (now "["), ALT and "\" as the control keys - works fine, but not "great". I can't use W,A,S,D keys - not instictive to use. I need to make my own design, hence this project.

Everything is ready electrically for this project, it is a matter of deciding if I am using a D-pad or joystick and which I decide to use; and making a case. To be honest, I am waiting to hear from EvilDragon as to whether he was able to repair my old GP2x (my other mod project) or not - if he can, I will do that project as priority (then this one afterwards), but if it is beyond repair, I may use some of its parts (D-pad/joystick) for this project. I am in no rush, so I will await the news from ED so I know what to do next.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looking forward to seeing the finished unit. I actually have Carpal tunnel syndrome in my right hand so I'm well aware of RSI issues.
 
geniv posted on Oct 17 2006 at 07:24 PM said:
dadioflex posted on Oct 15 2006 at 03:28 PM said:

http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage...duct_Id=157024#

NOSTROMO SPEEDPAD N52 awesome unit. for fps and rts games.

it emulates a keyboard.
Hey, this looks rather good. It seems to do what I want - cheers. I will research this, and see if there is anywhere in Hampshire (UK) I can buy one directly, or anywhere else in the UK ideally, rather than buying online (unless I have to). This would negate possibly me continuing with this particular mod. Anyone know of such stores with this product?? I might ask for this for Xmas!

You obviously think it is a great unit. Lovely. Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have that speedpad in my draw, I prefer using a keyboard though; since i like to send messages during my online gaming sessions B)

My only gripe is the large button under the dpad (I think its spacebar by default), it sticks down sometimes when you press it

Edit: Bought in-store from electronics boutique a year or two ago
 
Back
Top