Mainboard repairs


CyberLeo

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Messages
31
Hey ED:

Is this fixable?

2014-05-15-BrokenChoke.jpg

If it's not, can you sell just the naked board?

For a little background, I was lifting my GHz Pandora off a desk and it slipped out of my hand. The floor was kind enough to catch it for me, but the backlight stopped working. Nubs too, apparently. Opened it up to find this.

Thanks!
 
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if nothing else burned or was destroyed in the process it is an easy repair... this component is quite big, anyone that is not too clumsy with an iron should be able to fix that easily... since you were able to take the board out of the case I'm sure you have the capacity for that...
 
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if nothing else burned or was destroyed in the process it is an easy repair... this component is quite big, anyone that is not too clumsy with an iron should be able to fix that easily... since you were able to take the board out of the case I'm sure you have the capacity for that...
Ordinarily, I would agree. However, I had a glance at my old Rebirth, and the solder pads are underneith the coil. I'm not sure I have a soldering tip sharp enough to touch the pad without cooking the coil.
 
In any case wait for an advice from ED...

Sorry for theses posts, I just noticed the particular rules of this subforum... do I gain some Warning points now? :D
 
I've fixed them a few times, so yes, it is fixable, sometimes even reusing the old coil. After you soldered it back and confirmed it's working, it's best to apply hot glue afterwards to secure it.
 
Good to know that this kind of thing has been repaired before, and thanks for the hot glue tip.

I don't think the old coil is reusable, though, as it appears to have left its contacts behind.

What are the specs of this particular component?
 
You can try to google the partnumber on the old coil.
 
Unfortunately that coil just has a curly C on it (as the manufacturer logo presumably) and the code 223F, which is hardly unique.  Other inductors on the board have codes like 682D (physically larger) or 102D (smaller), or 472D (about the same size as the 102Ds).  By convention, perhaps the letter is the tolerance, and perhaps the last digit is the number of 0s to stick after the other numbers to get a reading in nH (nano-Henrys), so it's a 22000nH (more commonly referred to as 22uH) part.  Dunno what voltage though (I'd guess that's why the 682D is larger, cos it's a higher power part in the voltage regulation section), and I don't recognise that curly C logo, so dunno the manufacturer (that shape of SMD inductor is available from various makers though).
 
it seems to me upon looking on a suplier that the 22uH is the important part of the component, the various 223F had various acceptable currents and other minor spec variations but it seemed closely related to the formfactor of the component, I suspect any of theses 223F in the right package might suit, trough I hope ED could give you the exact one...
 
It's quite an adventure when you take apart a Pandora.  I can't advise you further, but I might try to tell you some nonsense.  First, don't take it apart.  Secondly, when you've taken it apart, you'll find things askew.  Thirdly, you should know your way around a soldering gun...Fourthly?  Is that even a word?  Well, who cares, because we're inside of the PANDORA, and we're soldering.  Fifthly?  Filthy and homeless, we decided to stop working on a Pandora because we're Geeks but we know our limits...


ED stepped right over my dumbass post and gave the correct diagnosis.

Just another reason to keep it PANDORA.
 
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Those fiddly little things are a right pain to hand-solder.

2014-05-31-FixedChoke.jpg

I could not find any suppliers that were able to sell me the part I needed; fortunately, Coilcraft just gave me six of them, with free shipping.

Thanks for the help, ED!
 
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