Gp2x With A D-pad.

[nik166]

you can also manage tu put a small button in the middle of the cross with a lower height so you wouldn't press it by mistake with your thumb , except if you press strongly or with the tip of the thumb (i see it very clearly in my mind )

 

[bacteria]

you can also manage tu put a small button in the middle of the cross with a lower height so you wouldn't press it by mistake with your thumb , except if you press strongly or with the tip of the thumb (i see it very clearly in my mind )

This is very fiddly to make. I tried this on earlier prototypes, but I found that:

1) it added too much height to the completed unit, as you can't mount a centre button in without compremising on the strength of the D-pad pivot, it needs to be made on top of the D-pad, which adds height
2) it was fiddly to make, the result was too much of a compremise to be robust
3) it was either too easy to press it by mistake, or it wouldn't press when you wanted it to
4) it didn't feel right
5) it wasn't robust, especially with a thumb moving all over the place, whilst using the D-pad for gaming

Theory is fine, and if the diameter of the D-pad was twice the size it would be feasible, but with the space available, it is not practical or workable. I have tried it, and discounted it.

This centre-push button can be mounted anywhere, even to the side or above the D-pad, so it is not an issue.

 

[bacteria]

Decided to make a start on the new D-pad. Have been busy shaving the joystick raised area right down, and trimming of the joystick stick, so my D-pad can be virtually flat untimately. Now I have started the project, I will have to finish it, as I can't play on my GP2x again until I finish the project! When I have finished the work, I aim to produce a "how to" guide, and take some pics; and post it as a new topic in the forum...

 

[moz]

Decided to make a start on the new D-pad. Have been busy shaving the joystick raised area right down, and trimming of the joystick stick, so my D-pad can be virtually flat untimately. Now I have started the project, I will have to finish it, as I can't play on my GP2x again until I finish the project! When I have finished the work, I aim to produce a "how to" guide, and take some pics; and post it as a new topic in the forum...

woohoo return of the floor tiles

goodluck

 

[Lint]

I'm sorry my english is not the best, but when you guys say that just one game wasn't possible to play correctly you say it about neogeo games at all (I think) or you say it about every freakin' game known tried?

the best option in avr mcu in DIP>14 is AVR90s2313, it's the easiest AVR mcu to buy, and if programmed to be on standby most of the time, will probably reduce consumption from 230uA to 80 or less micro-amperes, 2k of program is more than enough for that, but let's nevermind this mcu approach..

I think that stick push is necessary, altough pretty lame, a lot of times I try press it when I should not (playing battletoads on snes for example), so perhaps the best way is to have a true standard d-pad and a stick push button somewhere else... imho

also a center-placed stick push on a D-pad will definetely need software or microcontroller support to supress all directions and signal center when center is pressed/hold

 

[OMars]

Is bacteria the only one not trying to make a profit from his work? I commend him.

 

[Epicenter]

I'm sorry my english is not the best, but when you guys say that just one game wasn't possible to play correctly you say it about neogeo games at all (I think) or you say it about every freakin' game known tried?

It's not an issue now; the new Gngeo2x version works without hardware diagnols.

 

[DaveC]

Is bacteria the only one not trying to make a profit from his work? I commend him.

No he is not the only one. I will make everything public after I test it too.

I won't be building it out of duct tape and tin foil but that is just me.

 

[Lint]

It's not an issue now; the new Gngeo2x version works without hardware diagnols.

I mean, does DrMD, Quake, DooM and stuff like that work as well?

I don't play much of neo geo (I still haven't installed gngeo2x so far, I'll when my replacement joy caps are in hands), altough DrMD emulates d-pad based machines, other (native) games may get confused perhaps?

 

[Epicenter]

Those work fine. The games can't tell you use a D-Pad, they just see inputs; UP+RIGHT verusus UP-RIGHT is the only difference it sees, different signals. But this can be changed in software too..

 

[bacteria]

woohoo return of the floor tiles

goodluck

Sorry to disappoint, no floor tiles this time. Using the tough plastic from the box tops you get when you buy blank cd/dvd boxes - everyone has these!

I'm sorry my english is not the best, but when you guys say that just one game wasn't possible to play correctly you say it about neogeo games at all (I think) or you say it about every freakin' game known tried?

the best option in avr mcu in DIP>14 is AVR90s2313, it's the easiest AVR mcu to buy, and if programmed to be on standby most of the time, will probably reduce consumption from 230uA to 80 or less micro-amperes, 2k of program is more than enough for that, but let's nevermind this mcu approach..

I think that stick push is necessary, altough pretty lame, a lot of times I try press it when I should not (playing battletoads on snes for example), so perhaps the best way is to have a true standard d-pad and a stick push button somewhere else... imho

also a center-placed stick push on a D-pad will definetely need software or microcontroller support to supress all directions and signal center when center is pressed/hold

All NeoGeo games work now with standard 4-way pad. The centre push button, as I have said before, is a standard switch, which is easy to make, which connects to two of the existing joystick connections. YOU DON'T NEED A CIRCUIT BOARD for any reason anymore.

Your last paragraph is correct.

Is bacteria the only one not trying to make a profit from his work? I commend him.

Thanks a lot, mate. Appreciate your comment. :wub:

I am making the D-pad, and its installation, quite pain free - you don't need to remove the motherboard, you don't need to remove the joystick, etc. The parts are very easy to get hold of (free), so everyone can have a go. Project is coming on nicely - I have snipped off most of the joystick stick, and sliced and grinded away the bump on the outer joystick recess on the case (with a craft knife); it is now flat and smooth; imperitive to have a virtually flat end product. Project is coming on well. :lol: I am making photos as I am going along (let's hope my camera doesn't do something stupid before my project ends).

 

[bacteria]

Is bacteria the only one not trying to make a profit from his work? I commend him.

No he is not the only one. I will make everything public after I test it too.

I won't be building it out of duct tape and tin foil but that is just me.

Meow!

I have no facilities to make things with moulds, or proper machine tools (I know you have). Tin foil, yes; duct tape, no! I can certainly guarantee that my D-pad will be considerably flatter than yours, which is why it can be externally mounted and still be very flat. I estimate that the whole D-pad assembly will only be 3mm above the GP2x case; (lower than the volume button in height)!

It doesn't matter which of us makes the first one, or materials we use; what is important is that we both succeed, DaveC; and we post our "how to" guides for people to make their own - gives them a choice.

I want people to have a D-pad, and will give them the knowledge they need to make their own.

Anyway, good luck on your project DaveC! B)

 

[bacteria]

In case people are sceptical about using tin foil - please consider this - tin foil is made of tin (!) and tin is used in solder because it is a good electrical conductor. It is also extremely thin, easy to work and easy to glue to other surfaces with little skill. Electrical wires can be placed directly onto tin foil and kept in place by a self-adhesive label, foam pad, sticky tape; whatever - no need for soldering.

I am getting on to this part of the project now, will soon be time to assemble the unit. I just bought a tin of Fast Dry Enamel paint, gloss grey, which I will paint the D-pad and GP2x top with when I near project completion (purely for cosmetic reasons, and to "be different". Cost £1 in a "cheap shop" - would have cost a lot more from a DIY chain. This is my only expense for the project! I figured that enamel would be hard waring (after all, it is used for model aircraft, as well as craft-working. Before I paint my GP2x, I will use some fine Polyfiller to cover over the blemishes on my GP2x case, caused by previous mishaps (glue melting plastic (Uhu glue) and my soldering iron when it went astray and caught my GP2x months back!

 

[moz]

bacteria, you mad scientist

looking forward to the pics

 

[Gruntfuggly]

bacteria - what holds the dpad part of your design in place? Looking at the diagram it's not obvious - is it glued to the base somehow?

 

[bacteria]

bacteria, you mad scientist

looking forward to the pics

:lol: :blink:

 

[bacteria]

bacteria - what holds the dpad part of your design in place? Looking at the diagram it's not obvious - is it glued to the base somehow?

I tried Uhu glue, it didn't stick to the GP2x and plastic I used, so in the end I resorted to a 1mm sticky pad (which I tried to avoid to make everything c.3mm in total height, oh well) - this actually made making the wires connect far easier and more robust, and far easier to locate the wires in the right place.

I have now installed my D-pad; I aimed for 3mm above the GP2x case (in total) - actually is under 5mm - just finished making it. It is tested - works great, and is flat - it feels integral to the GP2x (BTW anyone using a conventional D-pad will have their "+" out of the GP2x by about this amount anyway, so I am happy with the result). I now need to construct the surround, and do a spot of painting to finish it. :rolleyes:

I am aiming to finish this in the next hour or so (fully working, but not fully completed), I am about to make the centre-push switch button now and complete this; after that I doubt I will have another chance to complete the project until Monday morning (UK time). I will then document the many step-by-step photos I have made, and then save them as a .pdf for all to download and use. This probably won't be complete until mid next week (as soon as I can, time permitting). I will submit a pic of the finished unit when it is completed so people can see it, I will then start the "how-to" guide and I will post this then as a new topic in the forum.

I am VERY happy with the work I have done. THIS IS BY FAR THE BEST I HAVE MADE TO DATE. B) I really think people will be impressed with this one...

 

[Lint]

hey man
congratulations! ^_^

I'm also glad that most games works flawless with a d-pad, there will be a lot less work to do.. ^_^²

I hope the stick push feels good, not erratic like the gp2x standard one..

 

[TelcoLou]

In case people are sceptical about using tin foil - please consider this - tin foil is made of tin (!) and tin is used in solder because it is a good electrical conductor.

I've never seen a roll of tin foil in my life here in the states. We have aluminum foil, and if I'm not mistaken, aluminum is less conductive than say, copper ... which is why we no longer use aluminum in electrical wires.

 

[LordFu]

Aluminum wires just tend to fail. They're plenty conductive, but they don't age well.