D-pad Mod Thanks Davec!

[erikthecat]

[Just wait a while, I just took installing pictures today, so I'll have a guide ready by tonight

EvilDragon,

i'm waiting,
ALL is okay, i'm cool
i was only asking,
all is good honest.

GaRy

 

[EvilDragon]

Heeeere you go

 

[Shadowsithe]

Thanks for the howto. This'll save me a bundle, when I pony up.

 

[DaveC]

Heeeere you go

Nice with pics etc.

One thing though I am not sure why you say to remove the metal piece after rough cut. If you do the finishing cut by hand you may end up with an oblong out of round, out of center hole with notches etc in there. (I actually did notice in your pics that there are indeed irregularities to the hole) It is better to leave the metal piece in for the whole thing, especially if you use a Dremel for it if you want a cleaner hole. Just use the metal as a guide and shave all plastic so that it is even with the edge of the round metal, it will be perfectly round and the right size. This eliminates all guessing and going back and forth trying the pad etc, and eliminates out of shape off-center hole accidents.

Remember a novice doing it for the first time may not be as experienced. He could end up with a disaster without the template.

Here is the original text only version. It is similar to EDs but has detail in some areas that may be helpful too.


d-pad instructions

 

[erikthecat]

"now De-solder the old joystick",
you guys both make this part sound easy

i've read both of your instructions sheets...

did either of you manage to get the old stick out without resorting to snipping legs off the old stick.
I'm using a soldering iron and DE-soldering pump,
but am ever cautious about heat damage to those tiny surface mounted resistors and capacitors situated not so far away from the stick! and also don't want to damage the internal links to the other side of the board!

i feel tempted to snip legs and remove them one at a time, easier, rather than trying to heat 12 pins at a time. as whatever i do there is still a slight solder residue left on the pins of the old stick, enough to prevent it from coming out

do i really want to keep the old stick as it is total rubbish, and I'm NOT using the GP for that reason anyway

send me a sign.

thanks in advance.

GaRy

 

[DaveC]

"now De-solder the old joystick",
you guys both make this part sound easy

i've read both of your instructions sheets...

did either of you manage to get the old stick out without resorting to snipping legs off the old stick.
I'm using a soldering iron and DE-soldering pump,
but am ever cautious about heat damage to those tiny surface mounted resistors and capacitors situated not so far away from the stick! and also don't want to damage the internal links to the other side of the board!

i feel tempted to snip legs and remove them one at a time, easier, rather than trying to heat 12 pins at a time. as whatever i do there is still a slight solder residue left on the pins of the old stick, enough to prevent it from coming out

do i really want to keep the old stick as it is total rubbish, and I'm NOT using the GP for that reason anyway

send me a sign.

thanks in advance.

GaRy

Snip the legs if it easier. You could always get a replacement stick anyway, it is an off the shelf part.

 

[erikthecat]

..... and relax!
YEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!
it's finished,
and it's so cool.

DaveC / EvilDragon and any other nameless contributer (you know who you are)
i would like to thank you both / all for resurrecting my long forgotten / disgarded GP2X.
for putting in all the time and effort involved in R&D, prototype creation, testing and final product release.
come to think of it your recent instructions are spot on too, out just at the right time to make my install much easier than it would have been without
i used a combination of the two sets that have been released, it's always good to have slightly different opinions when it comes to something that is quite new.
i'm no electronics genius, if your the kind of person who, can operate a soldering iron, have a few basic tools, can follow instruction logically, have patience, have the ability take all steps slowly, and don't try to rush it, i'm sure almost anyone would be able to perform this modification. the only slightly awkward bit for me was juggling all the plastic case parts, when putting the unit back together again. i took my time and didn't force anything, and all was okay.
i've only had chance to play a quick game of Robotron, on a very early release of MAME, the might R is a great test for any control panel and...
this D pad is 1000% better than that F****** stock joystick thing IMHO.
so now i just need to update to a more current Firmware and MAME.
to save me searching which is the best firmware at this time, most stable to upgrade to at this time?

again, many thanks for this, is great.

regards,

GaRy

PS did i say the D pad mod is fantastic?

 

[nubie]

to save me searching which is the best firmware at this time, most stable to upgrade to at this time?

FW 2.1.1 is best if you need 2GB SD support. FW 2.1.0 should be pretty much the same except for the SD card support.

 

[WhizzBang]

I just got my dpad modded GP2x back today and I would also like to say thanks to EvilDragon and DaveC. With the new pad I managed to set a new high score on Pac man (MAME) and Bomb Jack (GP2xpectrum) almost immediately.

 

[PoisonedV]

I kinda dislike the joystick, should I get this? I'm not really loaded on cash or anything, and I'm not sure since its just the 4 directions...

 

[Rivroner]

When will be more mods to buy in your shop Evildragon? Thank you