What have you bought recently?


12 inch pepperoni pizza and 10 inch steak sub from Hungry Howie's, my first ever Hungry Howie's order.

I have discovered the next level of sub sandwich. Don't be fooled by the 10 inch part; they basically take a ten inch pizza crust and use that to hold all the ingredients. Even I could barely tame that beast.
 
I got pizzas, but they weren't as fancy as the one from the previous poster's sammich.
 
As our Fridge at home dyd the other day, i jused the oportunity to get me a WLAN Repeater because whe whent to mediamarked yesterday,
Its a Fritzbox Thing, and after some fiddeling around whit Pairing to our Router, its now works perfekly, finaly Splatoon 2 Mulitplayer and Musik Streaming in the Badroom..
 
FBnil said:
Well, there is a difference in having one in the kitchen, and one for on the go.

What I have and like is this one (Pandora for scale)
View attachment 31416

As for the models on-the-go

View attachment 31417

I am curious about A, it seems ideal to cut the threads of metal away with the crest shaped point.
I have many of B, Very useful
I have had one C, it only works to make a hole and get air into a can if you have these cans with rotating lid. Never could cut a can with it.
I am curious about D. Are thy useful?
E works very good, only you need to cut smaller pieces of can lid, so it is more work.
I have something similar to F, the initial puncture is harder, but because it is not pointy, it looks safer.
Click to expand...

F is a bottle opener, and screwdriver and also a crowbar !! really !! I force opened a lot of things with that, it's amazing !!
but i think it is impossible to open a can with it, it has no blade.

C is great for me, used it constantly.
 
ible said:
i got* me some of these, because why not put a computer in my computer
https://www.crowdsupply.com/sutajio-kosagi/tomu

*crowd-funded, so will come in some time after the expected date
Click to expand...

I 'got' a couple of ARM M0+ small dev boards (akin to those, but with a USB micro socket on it rather than the board itself being a USB type-A plug, and with more GPIO headers, and I don't think the core was clocked quite that fast) a year or two back. I've still not found a use for them though, so they're still in my bits box.
 
yeah i'll try to set up 2fa on them, see how well they play with various online accounts.
 
A wooden snake. No, not Sawny from Outlander. One of those ones with little cuts in it that slithers. Also one of my Greek books (actually a few related manuscripts), translated to English.
 
Some accessories for my good old DSLite,
This DS fits exactly whit Everdrive GBA and some DS Games in my Switch Carry Case so it’s perfekt

6b5a45ee25c2934891cbc0849cfbe5c3.jpg


4 Pens (Stylus) and one USB Charging Cable
 
I wish I still had my DS Lite. I lost it somewhere, maybe in the house, but it has been many years. :(
 
Some time ago I bought a Power Mac 9500 to my collection. A nice thing was the upgrade, it was equipped with better G4 CPU and 128MB of RAM - being in fact like a computer from 1999, not 1995. One of the earlier units, with engineers' signatures well visible on inside of chassis (later they worn out on the die to the level they were hardly readable).
So after shipping I found it in pieces, literally every part made of ABS was broken. A 100+ part 3D puzzle.
After about a month I got to the deal with seller that I'll get part of money in return and I'll keep the remains. I was thinking about putting an electrically good mainboard to some other casing, but looking at it I decided to... glue it back.
I found that all pieces are there. This was a good part. However, the amount of cyanoacryl glue I predicted to use was too big for the cost of computer, so I decided to go another way: To weld the plastic with acetone.
Quickly I found that the acetone itself has two significant problems: It has quite low penetration when just put on the surfaces, and it has quite long time of keeping the weld "liquid" making the plastic go around instead of even small diffusion. I decided to experiment with other solvents, finally finding that there is an oily "Cyclo" solvent (used in some polymer production) I have leftovers since decades ago. This smells exactly like an acetone but isn't - it doesn't weld ABS well, but a drop of it to a cup of acetone makes the acetone last a bit longer on a weld improving diffusion of joined parts and making the weld more "plastic" than "liquid" by the cost of longer solidification time.
Last week I finished it. Last weekend I finally installed the hard drive and finished with software set-up. It works very well and is in one piece.
 
TrashyMG said:
Well one thing I've been regretting for a long time, because I had very limited access to Manual Transmission vehicles is that I never got to fully learn how to drive them properly and stuck to automatics.
Click to expand...
Funny, my brother once told me to drive his automatic and after minutes of not knowing what to do i opted out. I found it so very complicated...
Nice car btw.

@PCXT pics or did not happen.
 
@Elw3
Here they are:

Here is as delivered:
02.jpg 08.jpg
The rear ABS frame is broken to multiple pieces, most of them left in the rear part which could be just removed after unscrewing bolts - all plastic locks to keep the rear in the main chassis were broken as well as "hooks" on the bottom. The cooling was in at least 5 pieces. The flat parts of plastic come from the vertical part on the front of computer which was also in pieces. The biggest problem were these T-shaped plastic protrusions between front panel RF shield and front panel itself (what are they for? air duct?) - most of them fell between RF shield and the panel so I had to shake everything out, assemble as much as I could on the table and then glue to the rear of front panel - I decided not to remove any RF shielding if it is still held in place.

The first step was to disassemble everything and classify plastic parts to which larger part they become. Below we can see cooling, floppy rail, rear cover and on the other photo some front panel latches and CD-ROM drive rails. The ceramic container with gold lid contains the chemical solution used in welding.The front panel still holds to one side of metal case because it's on screws on one side.
dscn2538.jpg dscn2540.jpg

The most shattered part was the rear boards chassis. Here it's aligned before joining:
dscn2537.jpg

Partially assembled chassis, the syringe contains the welding solution when applied to smaller parts. The screw is another important tool: If there is a hole in a weld, because e.g. sub-milimeter part cracked out, I put a small piece of ABS in acetone, then it can be in its semi-liquid form removed with screw's thread and applied to patch the hole.
dscn2542.jpg

Almost ready and the final form. You can see that the welding process is not perfect and some white traces on welds can be spotted (e.g. vertical part on the rear of the chassis, its bottom).
dscn2558.jpg dscn2570.jpg
 
Skyrim Special Edition for PS4

I got depressed after learning that levi has been ignoring my threads, but I feel better now that I've blown some cash on a new game.
 
My best high d whistle so far. It's very heavy (about 150g) thanks to being quite massive brass, has a nice sound, I can get 2 octaves +1 note out of it chromatically and it isn't even that expensive:
dx204-d.png

And a new high c whistle from the same line but made from aluminium, I can get the same range out of it (with only one grip being different on the upper most end), it did cost about 2/5 of my old high c one made from carbon fibres which has less range:
dx006-c.png
 
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