So I have my Retrostone and let me tell you, I am super happy with this.
The construction of it is fantastic. It feels good and solid, and the buttons do as well. The D-Pad takes a little getting used to, but nobody has ever been able to fully properly replicate Nintendo's success with a D-pad. It's a little weighty, but that's not a bad thing. I wish the L buttons were placed lower on the back of the console, but where they are, are still perfectly useable.
There are, of course, a few nitpicks. The screen, for example, is far better than I had been lead to believe it would be, but not as good as it should be. Totally fine for most games, though if there is small text on the screen it just doesn't resolve. Same as if you were trying to read a 4 point font on a large screen. It's just too tiny to resolve properly. But this isn't a problem as long as the font size is large enough.
Battery life has been great. I don't like the fact that the power switch is just instant off, it should have had a soft-shutoff like the Snes Mini does. I've been toying with the idea of adding an extra button that I can use with a script to tell it to power off without having to go through the menu options to do it. Something for a future project.
I did the two extra buttons mod. I feel this was probably something that should have come already done by default, but not that hard to do if you've got a steady hand. My holes are drilled slightly off center but they're relatively easy to clean up with a sharp X-Acto knife. Had to modify the D-Pad a bit by drilling out the center pivot and installing a plastic bead from a pushpin to add about an extra millimeter, and then some layers of clear packing tape around the bottom of the D-Pad to make it more responsive. Since I did this, the D-pad seems to require less force to move in a direction. it's still a bit clicky, but that's because the rubber pad underneath is perhaps taller than it really should have been. The admin from the Retrostone Forum seems to have taken notice and is taking that into consideration to see if replacement Dpads may be made. I figure it needs around 1mm of extra height on the bottom pivot, and about the same amount underneath the D-Pad to make proper contact with the rubber pad. I kind of want to see if I can order a few loose D-Pads to experiment with.
Not really concerned about the Analogue stick mod. It seems relatively straightforward, but that's more case modification that I'm not prepared to do.
Wifi and Bluetooth do function provided you get dongles that are compatible, I have a Targus Bluetooth Dongle and a TP-Link Wifi Stick (2.4ghz but that's sufficient). I even have a Rii wireless keyboard and all three work perfectly fine with it. I've paired 8BitDo Bluetooth controllers (They also work with USB) and they function great. The speaker is sufficiently loud, but audio will go through HDMI if that is enabled.
HDMI requires a software menu option to change it, which is a bit of a bummer but it's not unworkable. It displays at 1280x720 on HDMI. Downside with HDMI is that the internal screen doesn't shut off, it just goes white. It'd be nice to see if there would be a way to get the internal controller to display a black image on the internal screen when it is attached to HDMI, but that's a future project. The built-in screen is 320x240, and looks about as good as the PSOne Screen, with little ghosting that I've noticed. The color intensity seems a bit strong, even if you turn the actual colors down all the way to gray scale almost as if the contrast to brightness difference is affecting the display of an image. Contrast adjustments aren't as good as the Brightness, so your mileage will constantly vary depending on what you're playing. But it is by no means unusable. I don't even notice any dot crawl or artifacting you might see from an Analogue signal displayed on an LCD screen. It's really a very nice screen.
If I try to display something with a higher resolution, it doesn't do any scaling. It just outputs the image, which means if you try doing 800x600, for example, you only get to see about a quarter of the screen. Interestingly, some games do run at higher resolution, for example Wolfenstein 3d runs at a peculiar 600x400 something resolution (Like 635x418 or something like that) in order to fit most of the image on the screen. If I do 320x240, it actually displays the image about the size of a postage stamp. This indicates there is SOME kind of screen scaling capable and going on, though how and when it decides to do it, I can't see. Noticed a similar issue with Quake 2.
It runs about as well as an RPI 3, though because it is an Allwinner H3, apparently hardware acceleration for the video is not properly implemented, so some things run slower than they should, but not when it comes to gaming. Kodi does work with Kodi version 16, and I had to go through a bit of a rigamarole to get it to work, but it does work. Doesn't like HD videos, though, which is a problem with hardware acceleration for Kodi. You can use it in desktop mode, but honestly I wouldn't recommend it. Much easier to just plug it into your network to put your roms on as it shows up as a Samba share, and SSH works fine on it as well. Often times, I have it plugged into my network either through Wifi or Ethernet and I'm in it through SSH to fiddle with settings and files. The method of copying roms from a USB stick to the internal storage is doable, but seriously why bother when network connectivity is so much better!
But all in all, for a portable, Gameboy-sized handheld game emulator that runs everything up to Playstation and some N64, at this price point it's definitely worth it! I haven't tried the Clockwork Gameshell but from what I've read, the Retrostone is a bit better in most ways even if it isn't as modular and still has a few quirks.
Anyone who might be interested in getting one, I definitely recommend!
[doublepost=1556145610,1556143245][/doublepost]I managed to compile a better version of Wolf3d for it that actually lets you use the Wl6 files from Steam's version of Wolfenstein 3d so you can actually play the full version, as none of the Apogee versions of the Wl6's would work with the built-in version. It's a single executable, if I modify the Wolfenstein3d.sh and slap this executable in the same directory as the WL6's, it works perfectly fine, so I might stick this up later if anyone wants it.