Questions about the Case


-Tj-

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Sep 2, 2009
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I have a bunch of questions regarding the case that I'm hoping either the OP team or those with Pandoras can help me figure out.


For starters, I bought a replacement case for measuring purposes (gonna try and produce something for it). I'm kinda surprised at the size of it; I had imagined it to be a little smaller than it actually is. This is not a complaint! In fact, I wish some aspects of it were bigger, like a larger screen, or bigger buttons, but that's for another topic, perhaps when I finally get my real, working Pandora to play with.


Questions:


- As far as the stylus is concerned, how is it held inside the case? The piece that fits into the spot just below the SD card slot holes is an obvious hint, but it looks as though that particular piece is also supported by the PCB? Without it, when I press the stylus in the leftmost end pushes upward, as though there's not enough space for the stylus AND that piece. In addition, the stylus is really tightly-fit in there, and leaves some streaks caused by friction within the slot on the stylus itself. It feels like some sort of snap in there, but looking at the stylus and the plastic part I can't really figure out which part is doing the snapping.


:Edit: I just figured out how the stylus stays in, but still wondering if the other part is held down by the PCB.


- The top half of the clamshell is not very modder-friendly. Without any LCD or speakers in it, I was able to get the two halves apart after pressing them together, but the fit is very, very tight. So tight that I really don't see why there's a need for screws. The only way I was able to get them apart was by working my fingers around inside through the spot where the LCD would be, bending the outer shell a bit, and by using a pulling tool I fashioned to pull the corners out from by the screw holes. Is there an easier/correct way to take this apart? If not, it's very likely I'll be modifying this case to come apart easier, possibly by filing down the tabs that snap in to the sides of the inside of the outer shell.


- For the record, is the spare case set supposed to come with the D-pad and/or screws? Craig said in response to my question on the Spare Parts thread that he'd include screws, but I'm not sure if he meant that just for me, or for all orders. I'm assuming all orders, unless he knows what email address I'm attached to. :p My case came with enough screws to secure the bottom half of the case, but not the top half (4 screws for the screen), and did not come with a D-pad. I was told through email that neither of the missing components were meant to be included, and that the D-pad is actually part of the keymat set. I'm ok with the screws not coming with, but the D-pad is clearly listed on the order page.


That's all the questions I have right now that I can think of. I might have more a bit later. :)
 
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I was told through email that neither of the missing components were meant to be included, and that the D-pad is actually part of the keymat set. I'm ok with the screws not coming with, but the D-pad is clearly listed on the order page.
I can't answer your other questions, but I can say that the D-pad is definitely part of the keymat in that it is actually affixed to it, pretty firmly I might add. I imagine they could ship it separately from the keymat, but it wouldn't make any sense to do so: that glue is TIGHT, I don't think it's possible to take the D-pad off a keymat and replace it without damaging the rubber underneath it. In other words, if you wanted to do just a mod on the keymat, you would need both the keymat and a new D-pad (preferably already glued to it I think) so may as well sell them together. At the same time, if you wanted to mod the case and D-pad, there's no easy way to remove the D-pad from the keymat so you're likely to need a new one of those as well. At $5 I intend to buy a couple.


It makes some reasonable sense to me that it would be done that way, and why the D-pad is therefore part of the keymat package. You are correct about the page saying it should be included though. Craigix will have to answer to this specific bit of confusion.
 
- The top half of the clamshell is not very modder-friendly. Without any LCD or speakers in it, I was able to get the two halves apart after pressing them together, but the fit is very, very tight. So tight that I really don't see why there's a need for screws.
There isn't a need - they can be omitted. At design time, I get the impression there was a concern that maybe the lid would flex too much, but in practice that's not the case.


Still, screws are part of the product. Pandoras have gone out in the past with the screws accidentally omitted, and while OPT did send out a set of screws (IIRC) the advice was it was perfectly safe to use without them. Personally, I'd expect screen screws are meant to be supplied with case spares, but I don't know for sure.
 
WizardStan:


Huh. I didn't know it was glued to the keymat. Now I'm actually more confused in that the D-pad isn't shown on the keymat photo on the order page.


Now I have yet another question related to that: why is it glued to the keymat? There are grooves on the inside of the case to accommodate the tabs on the D-pad to keep it from falling out or moving around (unless the tabs have since been removed), so... why the glue? :blink:


Levi:


In that case, perhaps I will file down the tabs on the inner part of the cover. If screws will hold it in place I'd prefer those to do the work as opposed to both. Plus if I paint the case, I won't have to worry about the tabs scratching the paint during assembly, like it does now.


Thanks for the info so far, guys. :)
 
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Hate to bump my own post, but I've still got unanswered questions that I'm sure either Craig or ED can answer, especially on the D-pad stuff since I'm wondering how many people out there think it's included.
 
Hate to bump my own post, but I've still got unanswered questions that I'm sure either Craig or ED can answer, especially on the D-pad stuff since I'm wondering how many people out there think it's included.

I don't have my Pandora yet but I ordered spare parts for future use and they arrived the other day - thanks Craigix! (in case I needed them plus I get a preview of what the actual thing will feel and look like) .


I ordered the Pandora case, keymat set and 2 LCD connector spares


I can confirm that as well as the case you get the 3 long screws, 2 short screws, clear plastic 4 section piece for the LEDs?, small plastic piece for the hinge?, stylus, stylus plastic bracket.


D-Pad came attached to the keymat already and the ABXY control buttons arrived loose in the package.


I'm quite impressed at how it all fits together. The hardest part, it appears to me, is connecting the LCD section and hinge barrel.


Perhaps the LCD screws come with the LCD screen component?


.. and I've just realised that you've received your spare case already from the last part of your edited post :rolleyes:
 
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@Link: Did they send you replacements? After looking at some users' Pandoras, I can see how the screws could be easily missed in a fast-paced environment. With the screw covers on, it looks almost like a unit without screws... it just kinda blends in. Dunno what the lighting situation is there, but maybe dim lighting or heavy backlighting could have caused a miss?


@kilowatt: Thanks for the input. Guess I might have to order a keymat now, too. Did the buttons (ABXY) come with the case, or with the keymat?


As far as putting the case together, were you talking about the top and bottom halves connecting at the hinge? I don't have an LCD cable, so maybe that's part of it, but I've gotten pretty good at putting the two together. I don't have that hinge tensioner or whatever it is that holds the lid up, so maybe it's more difficult than I think it is. Basically, I position the lid at a 90° angle to the bottom and insert the small end into the left 'wing' at an angle, then flex the right side of the upper bottom case a bit to wedge the other side into position. Works pretty well, but as stated, I don't have everything. :p


I guess Craig and ED are busy with the iCP and daily Pandora videos (respectively) at the moment, but the info you guys gave me is pretty solid-sounding. Still confused on the glued D-pad, tho. :mellow:
 
@Link: Did they send you replacements? After looking at some users' Pandoras, I can see how the screws could be easily missed in a fast-paced environment. With the screw covers on, it looks almost like a unit without screws... it just kinda blends in. Dunno what the lighting situation is there, but maybe dim lighting or heavy backlighting could have caused a miss?
I need to follow up on the screws, I didn't get screw covers or screws when I got my Pandora back from the UK post-LCD replacement. I'm going to drop Jacquelyn an email now.
 
@kilowatt: Thanks for the input. Guess I might have to order a keymat now, too. Did the buttons (ABXY) come with the case, or with the keymat?

The ABXY buttons were loose in the case but the case was wrapped together with the keymat in bubble wrap so I'm not sure if it was part of the keymat.

As far as putting the case together, were you talking about the top and bottom halves connecting at the hinge? I don't have an LCD cable, so maybe that's part of it, but I've gotten pretty good at putting the two together. I don't have that hinge tensioner or whatever it is that holds the lid up, so maybe it's more difficult than I think it is. Basically, I position the lid at a 90° angle to the bottom and insert the small end into the left 'wing' at an angle, then flex the right side of the upper bottom case a bit to wedge the other side into position. Works pretty well, but as stated, I don't have everything. :p

Yes, I don't have a completed Pandora as a template to follow which probably helps so thanks for this tip.
 
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