BaDToaD
"Very" Old Timer
jmetal88 said:
Oh nice find! I can run all day at 155 but 160 and my GP32 locks up. 200 is seriously impressive
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Fixing A Front Light
- Thread starter jmetal88
- Start date
Oh nice find! I can run all day at 155 but 160 and my GP32 locks up. 200 is seriously impressive
jmetal88
Erm.... Woohoo!
BaDToaD said:jmetal88 said:
Oh nice find! I can run all day at 155 but 160 and my GP32 locks up. 200 is seriously impressive
I know, this is my fourth GP32 and the highest I got before this was 180. I'm actually playing Earthbound at 236mhz on the SNES emulator right now.
EDIT: Aww, just crashed. It ran for a little while though. I'll have to see what the highest stable speed is.
EDIT 2: Looks like top speed is 212mhz. Any higher and I can't load my save states.
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jmetal88
Erm.... Woohoo!
Awesome! I just wired up the brightness control circuitry and it works very well.
It's exactly the same circuit listed on the site I linked to, hooked to the LEDs in the same way as the motor on the last page is. It's adjustable from full brightness to nearly off, and of course it can be switched off using the original switch.
Only problem is I didn't like the idea of the potentiometer shaft sticking out the back of the GP32, so I used one that needs a screwdriver to adjust it, and it's just a little bit awkward to hang on to the screwdriver in that slot while angling the display so I can see it.
It's exactly the same circuit listed on the site I linked to, hooked to the LEDs in the same way as the motor on the last page is. It's adjustable from full brightness to nearly off, and of course it can be switched off using the original switch.
Only problem is I didn't like the idea of the potentiometer shaft sticking out the back of the GP32, so I used one that needs a screwdriver to adjust it, and it's just a little bit awkward to hang on to the screwdriver in that slot while angling the display so I can see it.
Arda
Member
an old post but..jmetal88 said:
If it only crashes while loading from SMC, try to use a powerful psu (higher Amperage). Well, it's pretty much ok if a gp32 manages 166mhz, but anyway, try not to burn your cpu
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amishaziz
Member
Any mistake(s) you make are of you own doing so congratulations
FLU scratch removal.
You will need:
A very thin flat bladed screw driver.
Paper (regular writing paper - machine made)
Scissors.
Damp cloth.
Methylated spirit (optional).
Use the fine screw driver to remove the screen surround, and the screen.
Use the scissors to cut out a disc from the paper about the diameter of a golf ball.
Then curl up the egdes of the disc of paper (so it looks like a plate in profile).
Paper (wood), has a very fine abrasive surface, and I use it a lot for buffing, and polishing, certain materials.
Place the paper like you would a plate on a table but on the FLU plastic screen.
Now with a single digit and very light pressure move in the diagonal direction of the grain (lines on the screen), begin gently buffing, repeatedly.
***IMPORTANT***
Make sure that there is no debris on the screen, or under the paper for you shall scratch you screen.
If for any reason you crease the paper, throw it away, and cut out a new disc, for those tiny folds will scratch your screen.
The edges of the paper are like a knife to the screen they must not make contact with the screen.
Stop often to check your progress - use the damp cloth (to wipe the dust). Operate the FLU, and check for progress until you are satisfied.
When removing dust you may use a camera lens brush (C A M E L hair), you may use a lens cloth (damp).
Do not use cotton buds, the plastic tip may poke through the wool, and damage your screen.
The moment you get confident and apply more pressure - stop!, and back off.
Once done apply meths (a few drops) to a lens / clint free cloth degrease all screens, and re assemble.
You shall end up with a clearer looking screen (with reduced scratches), the pixels will have good definition, but the ripple pattern has now changed, to a softer one. The light will be more diffuse also.
Buffing the screen up afterwards (with a clean damp cloth), prior to clean up (degreasing), and re assembly helps with light transmission.
At the first instance of error - read top line.
Good luck.
FLU scratch removal.
You will need:
A very thin flat bladed screw driver.
Paper (regular writing paper - machine made)
Scissors.
Damp cloth.
Methylated spirit (optional).
Use the fine screw driver to remove the screen surround, and the screen.
Use the scissors to cut out a disc from the paper about the diameter of a golf ball.
Then curl up the egdes of the disc of paper (so it looks like a plate in profile).
Paper (wood), has a very fine abrasive surface, and I use it a lot for buffing, and polishing, certain materials.
Place the paper like you would a plate on a table but on the FLU plastic screen.
Now with a single digit and very light pressure move in the diagonal direction of the grain (lines on the screen), begin gently buffing, repeatedly.
***IMPORTANT***
Make sure that there is no debris on the screen, or under the paper for you shall scratch you screen.
If for any reason you crease the paper, throw it away, and cut out a new disc, for those tiny folds will scratch your screen.
The edges of the paper are like a knife to the screen they must not make contact with the screen.
Stop often to check your progress - use the damp cloth (to wipe the dust). Operate the FLU, and check for progress until you are satisfied.
When removing dust you may use a camera lens brush (C A M E L hair), you may use a lens cloth (damp).
Do not use cotton buds, the plastic tip may poke through the wool, and damage your screen.
The moment you get confident and apply more pressure - stop!, and back off.
Once done apply meths (a few drops) to a lens / clint free cloth degrease all screens, and re assemble.
You shall end up with a clearer looking screen (with reduced scratches), the pixels will have good definition, but the ripple pattern has now changed, to a softer one. The light will be more diffuse also.
Buffing the screen up afterwards (with a clean damp cloth), prior to clean up (degreasing), and re assembly helps with light transmission.
At the first instance of error - read top line.
Good luck.
