Fixing A Front Light

[jmetal88]

I think I made a post on here a while back, as I got a GP32 FLU which had its front light die a few days after I received it. Today I finally decided to just take the front light out, so that I would at least be able to use the GP32 as an NLU and not have the funny diagonal lines going down the screen. Since I managed to take the FLU panel out without damaging it (visibly anyway, hopefully it still moves light in the way it was meant to), I've decided I'm going to have a shot at fixing it. I've already taken off the reflective bar at the bottom of the screen and peeled off the ribbon that has the LEDs soldered to it. I tested the LEDs independently, and neither of them power on.

I think I found a good match for a replacement part here:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...e=365-1482-1-ND

And I might try my hand at making one of these so I don't make a mess of attempting the replacement:
http://www.engadget.com/2006/03/07/how-to-...soldering-iron/

I figure if I can't make it work, then I'm just out a couple of bucks. If I can, then I'll either have a working FLU again, or working LEDs with a damaged light guide (again, it doesn't look damaged, but as I understand parts of it are rather microscopic, so it's hard to tell), which would also just mean I'm out a couple of bucks. Of course, either negative situation would still mean I cannot play my GP32 in the dark, but I've already gotten used to that since the FLU ceased functioning in the first place so I suppose it won't matter too much.

I might post an update in a couple of weeks if I decide to keep going through with this idea. If anyone has any tips or constructive feedback, I will appreciate it.

 

[jmetal88]

Thought I'd bump this to ask:

Anyone know what kind of tweezers would be best for holding the LEDs while I solder them? I removed the two that were on the ribbon already and I ended up losing them because I couldn't find anything that would grip them very well just laying around in my house.

 

[jmetal88]

Well guys, I fixed my front light.

I think the new LEDs are brighter than the old ones as the colors look a bit more washed out than when I first got the console.

If anyone is interested, I used these LEDs:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=365-1482-1-ND

and these tweezers:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=EROP3CSA-ND

I've got a lot of dust under my screen now, but luckily I'm on some medication that tones the OCD down a bit now so it doesn't bother me enough to take it apart and clean it again. :lol:

 

[jmetal88]

Well, I solved the washed-out problem, albeit not in the way I intended. I killed half of the ribbon cable trying to stick one of the LEDs on more securely, so now only one side will light up.

Unfortunately, that means the display is very dim now (although it is playable) even though the colors no longer appear washed-out.

 

[jmetal88]

Alright, since I'm a little bit annoyed at destroying half the ribbon cable, I went ahead and ordered this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130339990582

I figure I have two options there, either try to repair it, or simply swap circuit boards. The latter will be easiest, obviously, so I'll probably do that and see about fixing the other board later.

 

[jmetal88]

Alright, since I'm a little bit annoyed at destroying half the ribbon cable, I went ahead and ordered this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=130339990582

I figure I have two options there, either try to repair it, or simply swap circuit boards. The latter will be easiest, obviously, so I'll probably do that and see about fixing the other board later.

Damn it, the front light is burned out on that one too.

This isn't my freaking year.

 

[slaanesh]

In case you think you are alone, you are not. I am listening to your story.

I haven't had any problems with my FLU - once a solder point broke but that was an easy fix. Other than that, my FLU has been very faithful to me.
In some ways I prefer the FLU to the BLU as it's absolutely great to use outside or in direct sun - everything is very vibrant under these conditions.

Do you have any other spare GP32s?

EDIT: BTW I was bidding on that one too. I wanted some other spare parts.

 

[BaDToaD]

In case you think you are alone, you are not. I am listening to your story.

Yeah it's almost like a blog... Well I suppose it is in a way.

 

[jmetal88]

OK, a few more frustrations, and some triumphs.

Took apart the new GP32, scratched the light guide a bit, but not as badly as my old light guide. Then I peeled the ribbon cable off and broke the bugger.

Then I taped up the ribbon cable and melted solder into the tape, and amazingly I had conductivity.

Then I soldered my extra LEDs to the new ribbon cable, and now I have a front light that works as long as I don't put any pressure on the grey screen surround.

It actually doesn't look as washed out as my first attempt, but I can't really figure out what's different. Light guide is also a little smudged, but I'm reluctant to clean it as I may scratch it further.

As for spare GP32s, I now have what is essentially a broken NLU, as I removed the light guide from my old GP32 FLU and also put the broken circuit board from the new FLU in. I might try fixing it eventually though.

 

[jmetal88]

My successes are always so short-lived. :angry:

The right-side LED came off and I managed to kill it with my soldering iron before I could get it back on. I'm all out of spares now.

Also one of the solder pads came off the new ribbon cable so I doubt I'll be able to get it working again, even with new LEDs.

 

[jmetal88]

Ooh! I just found a really neat Instructable:

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Flexible-Printed-Circuits/

I also found a cheap personal laser printer on ebay that I'll be using for the iron-on method. Might be able to get both front lights working this way, but I'll have to order some new LEDs since the ones I have are pretty much broken now.

 

[slaanesh]

It's making an entertaining read.

Once you get your GP32 going again, you will be able to enjoy a new port that I have been working on - OpenTyrian for the GP32!

It plays rather nicely too.

 

[jmetal88]

It's making an entertaining read.

Once you get your GP32 going again, you will be able to enjoy a new port that I have been working on - OpenTyrian for the GP32!

It plays rather nicely too.

I'll be sure to check it out.

Good news! DuPont is sending me a free sample of one of their Pyralux products. In retrospect, I might have requested too thin a material, but their sample size is 6 square feet so I'll have plenty of chances to get it right. They told me I had to pay for shipping, but luckily I have a FedEx account that I haven't used for anything yet so I'm letting them charge shipping to that.

I'm excited to try this.

 

[BaDToaD]

It's making an entertaining read.

OpenTyrian for the GP32!

It plays rather nicely too.

Ooooh!

I love a vertical shmup. Checkout WarhawkDS if you have a DS. I done a bit of the graphic work on it as I was the designer of the original c64 Warhawk.

Oh and jmetal88 keep at it

 

[jmetal88]

Sweet! I finally got my copper film in!

I also got sent a roll of coverlay by mistake, but that somewhat works in my favor, as now I have professional material to insulate the leads with. I'll post an update once I have the procedure worked out enough to produce a usable circuit.

 

[jmetal88]

I tried to take some pictures, but they didn't come out right. Apparently, my laser printer actually is capable of printing directly on the copper film. I also got some etching solution at Radio Shack and it does work for etching around the toner.

I also just soldered on the LEDs, and hopefully they'll stay there while I put the thing back in the GP32. This circuit ended up being a lot thinner than the original, but I'm hoping Dupont's stuff is less fragile than whatever it was Hahotech was using.

 

[jmetal88]

Hey! It works!

Unfortunately, my soldering accuracy is just awful, though, and I've got the worst trapezoid effect you've ever seen on a front light. But hey, at least I have both sides of the screen lighting up now!

 

[jmetal88]

More great news! I managed to fix the broken GP32 I ordered a while back, finally!

Now I have two working FLUs, but unfortunately, I destroyed the lens on one of the LEDs on the second one, as it is now emitting blue light instead of white light. Since this completely distorts the GP32's colors, I'll have to order some more new LEDs and try again on this particular GP32.

 

[BaDToaD]

More great news! I managed to fix the broken GP32 I ordered a while back, finally!

Now I have two working FLUs, but unfortunately, I destroyed the lens on one of the LEDs on the second one, as it is now emitting blue light instead of white light. Since this completely distorts the GP32's colors, I'll have to order some more new LEDs and try again on this particular GP32.

Nice one jmetal88

 

[jmetal88]

More great news! I managed to fix the broken GP32 I ordered a while back, finally!

Now I have two working FLUs, but unfortunately, I destroyed the lens on one of the LEDs on the second one, as it is now emitting blue light instead of white light. Since this completely distorts the GP32's colors, I'll have to order some more new LEDs and try again on this particular GP32.

Nice one jmetal88

Thanks.

I've actually made the second GP32 my primary unit now, 'cause I discovered I can overclock it up over 200mhz. I printed up and etched another flex circuit and beefed up my hot air pencil so I could do a better job soldering on the LEDs, and now have the light working flawlessly. I took apart the first GP32 again and will be using it to test out mods, I think. I might put it back together eventually.

I'm fairly sure now, though, that the LEDs I ordered are much brighter than the originals, as they wash out all the dark colors on the screen. I'm gonna work on building a circuit to adjust the brightness now. I tried just adding in a potentiometer, but the one I had didn't dim the LEDs much, it just shut them off at a certain position, so I'll have to build a PWM like this: http://www.robotroom.com/PWM.html