b1ueskycomp1ex
Open Sauce Fanatic & AMD Fanboy
After a hard life, many adventures, many triumphs, many losses... I say goodbye to my GP2X Wiz handheld console. My wiz answered Many important questions.
My Wiz has gotten me through at least 30 Different emulated games from start to finish. I've been able to use most of the software on the Wiz archive, see it work, and be amazed at the strength of it's community. With one final activation of TV-Out displaying Jacksterson's very old, very experimental black and red Wiz menu theme, I was able to say goodbye to a loyal companion that saw me through a lot of boring idle time in my life. It's put up with sustained abuse, being dropped, disassembled, reassembled, experimented with and hacked. The year wouldn't have been the same without it.
R.I.P GP2X Wiz - 8/20/2010
.
In addition to my very sad final video, I present to you what it was doing before it was torn apart for science for the final time, an example of the very nice TV-Out capabilities no one seems to want to use or support (Even though making a cable is fairly easy).
And as it's final act of providing interesting information for the community, it's finally revealed the reason why a rectangle of pixels seems to go bad on every device with a faulty or broken screen:
It seems to be a pad of some sort, not sure why it's there. In the other photos you can see that there's some sort of machine-readable barcode type thing and some backwards letters/numbers. Don't ask me what any of it is. Anyway, that's the reason for the shape of the pixels that die.
And for more pictures of it's autopsy, go over Here, where you can see (or you really can't, actually...) the extremely thin, barely-noticeable crack on the ACTUAL OLED SCREEN (rather than the touchscreen, which is what broke.)
The screen is actually comprised of a plasticy overlay and glass screen (for the touchscreen) Followed by the glass of the actual OLED screen, which is only maybe a micron thicker than a credit card. Only a very tiny, thin crack caused the screen to fail, but it's behind both the plastic sort of touchscreen cover, and some more glass. It is well protected, so you don't have to worry about small drops or things like that.
I do plan to stay active on the boards, and I hope to be able to afford a pandora soon.
- What battery life will I get with my wiz at 533Mhz? 800Mhz? 300Mhz?
- What does screen damage look like? Why do the rotting pixels form a box on the right side of the screen?
- Which games work in PCSX4ALL?
- What does TV-Out look like?
- What does the inside of a GP2X Wiz look like?
My Wiz has gotten me through at least 30 Different emulated games from start to finish. I've been able to use most of the software on the Wiz archive, see it work, and be amazed at the strength of it's community. With one final activation of TV-Out displaying Jacksterson's very old, very experimental black and red Wiz menu theme, I was able to say goodbye to a loyal companion that saw me through a lot of boring idle time in my life. It's put up with sustained abuse, being dropped, disassembled, reassembled, experimented with and hacked. The year wouldn't have been the same without it.
R.I.P GP2X Wiz - 8/20/2010
.
In addition to my very sad final video, I present to you what it was doing before it was torn apart for science for the final time, an example of the very nice TV-Out capabilities no one seems to want to use or support (Even though making a cable is fairly easy).
And as it's final act of providing interesting information for the community, it's finally revealed the reason why a rectangle of pixels seems to go bad on every device with a faulty or broken screen:
It seems to be a pad of some sort, not sure why it's there. In the other photos you can see that there's some sort of machine-readable barcode type thing and some backwards letters/numbers. Don't ask me what any of it is. Anyway, that's the reason for the shape of the pixels that die.
And for more pictures of it's autopsy, go over Here, where you can see (or you really can't, actually...) the extremely thin, barely-noticeable crack on the ACTUAL OLED SCREEN (rather than the touchscreen, which is what broke.)
The screen is actually comprised of a plasticy overlay and glass screen (for the touchscreen) Followed by the glass of the actual OLED screen, which is only maybe a micron thicker than a credit card. Only a very tiny, thin crack caused the screen to fail, but it's behind both the plastic sort of touchscreen cover, and some more glass. It is well protected, so you don't have to worry about small drops or things like that.
I do plan to stay active on the boards, and I hope to be able to afford a pandora soon.
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