Thinking Of Getting A Gp32

[tekt5]

well i've been hanging around these boards for probably half a year now.
I've finally gotten a job so can start saving for one ( gp32_console ) but I have some questions on where to get one.

i live in the US in New York...

the places i was thinking of getting one from would be either lik-sang gbax and gp32z.

i've heard a lot of good stuff about gbax and some not so good stuff about lik-sang. And if I remember correctly isn't gp32z in america.. as in cheaper shipping for me?

SO basically does anyone have any suggestions on where I should get it from?

Thanks

- Tekt5

EDIT: Also would it be worth paying an extra ~$15 for the 166MHZ version?

 

[dr_other]

Hey man, I gotta recommend checking out this sites very fine F.A.Q. section. It will help out very much. And FYI, 166 is a very good idea.

 

[scarface]

Pm me about mine.im selling my non-lit one for 129.99 to raise money towards a Blu unit.It is overclocked somewhere between 166 to 190.

 

[Lethe]

a non-lit for $130??? i think thats a rip-off... these days you can find a non-lit for less than a $100 and a flu for around $130. i was thinking about selling my flu for around $120

and i really suggest gp32z cuz 1. its in the states 2. jr2swiss is easily contactable throught these boards 3. he sells 166mhz guaranteed 4. i think he is doing a glass mod for $5.99 if you buy a gp32

 

[Alpha2]

Hey, I'm from NY as well. I got my FLU from Lik-Sang mostly because when I checked shipping from GBAxit was ridiculous, but as I understand it they might try to fix the price if you discuss it with them, I dunno, I wasnt under the impression I could haggle at the time.

But anyway I didnt have much trouble at all with them and shipping was decent, it took maybe a week to a week and a half to get to me, they've got a lot of experience shipping to the US.

 

[DaveC]

well i've been hanging around these boards for probably half a year now.
I've finally gotten a job so can start saving for one ( gp32_console ) but I have some questions on where to get one.

i live in the US in New York...

the places i was thinking of getting one from would be either lik-sang gbax and gp32z.

i've heard a lot of good stuff about gbax and some not so good stuff about lik-sang. And if I remember correctly isn't gp32z in america.. as in cheaper shipping for me?

SO basically does anyone have any suggestions on where I should get it from?

Thanks

        - Tekt5


EDIT: Also would it be worth paying an extra ~$15 for the 166MHZ version?

​

Jr2Swiss is in the US, I bought 2 BLUs from him, no problems. Also forget FLUs and non-lit units, get the backlit BLU the screen is so much nicer and the colors deeper than a FLU. Also pop for the extra $15 for the 166 you won't miss the $15 as much as you will the 166. There are a few Genesis emus being worked on and they work better at 166. Also go for the glass screen, the plastic one that comes on it is shite it scratches and streaks easily.

 

[thecheat]

i am mad that they didnt have glass screens when i got mine.
i have a neoprene (sp) case and even THAT scratchs the screen
but not badd enought that a little shirt-buffing cant help

 

[WarmFluffyUK]

Handy Hint:

If you got little scratches on your plastic GP32 screen, then they can be removed by using a soft cloth and some brasso. This also works for CDs that have scratches on them, heres what to do.

Get a soft cloth, a duster will do. put a small ammout of brasso on the cloth and rub the screen in a circular motion until the scratch has gone. Wipe the rest of the brasso off with another section of the cloth.

So how does it work?
Brasso is a very fine abrasive, and it actually takes a fine layer off the top (and I do mean fine), this has the effect of smoothing out the scratch.
On the GP32 screen it will make an annoying scratch appear to dissapear . You may think on a CD taking off a very fine layer on the suface would kill the data, not so, as the data isn't on the top of the CD, it's actually on the bottom. A CD is made up of the following:
1. Label
2. Data area
3. a thick layer of plastic protecting the data area
What you're doing is buffing up the plastic surface allowing the laser to correctly read the data without being scattered by the scratch that's no longer there.

So there you have it, a handy hint to get rid of annoying GP32 scratches and to revive CDs. That's gotta be worth a Toffe Crisp .

Clare.

 

[cozmic]

techno techies

 

[bringoutthegimp]

sorry what's this "brasso" youre talking about?

 

[kknd_cf]

lol Clare, it sounds like you were created for the gp32 alone
I'll try this soon.
btw bringoutthegimp, I think it's this:

 

[DaveC]

I wouldn't bother with trying to polish the plastic screen. Plastic is terrible THROW IT OUT it is garbage. It is so easy to put a glass screen it would probably take you less time to do that then it would to try to salvage the shit plastic one. The glass is clearer too making the colors look better.

 

[tekt5]

thanks to the people that helped me .

srry scarface but i'm looking into a new blu unit.

i think i'll probably go for a 166mhz blu with a glass screen from gp32z.com
plus if i order fast enough i'll get gloop deluxe with it!

thanx again and i hope to be joinging you guys soon!