This hinge would have to be custom machined out of metal. It's going to require some extremely precision work to make sure the hinge is stiff enough to prevent the display from wobbling but still be able to fold and rotate without butting undue stress on the device.
Speaking of undue stress on the device, you're going to have a difficult time mounting it to the base in a sturdy enough fashion. All the cantilever forces from the display will be concentrated in one spot - the middle of the base - which was not designed from the start to handle those forces. Anything simply glued/screwed onto the existing base would eventually cause stress cracks and failure of the plastic.
Last and probably least, is the display cable. The cable used in the current design is of the flexible plastic ribbon type (seen
here). Ribbon cables like this do not take well to being twisted and folded, and it certainly wouldn't fit through the hinge anyway. You would have to cobble together a custom cable out of very fine wire that could fit through the hinge and deal with the rotating / bending.
A mod of this magnitude is not
impossible, but it would require some serious engineering. Do not expect a commercial aftermarket kit to do something like this. The first market is barely large enough to support design and manufacturing costs, the aftermarket certainly isn't. This is a Benheck-caliber mod, and I wouldn't suggest even attempting it to anybody without significant experience in this area.
Is THAT ribbon cable really the final one? How would that work? Sitting on the edge, where the two halfs of the device are attached to each other. I would suppose, that the inner tubule of the hinge is hollow and the non-ribbon cable is fiddled through.
I'm planning to design a custom convertible-hinge myself from brass or stainless steel, small parts can easily be connected with silver hard solder. To deal with a ribbon cable would make things harder, I would have to cut it and solder other wires on the contact bar, because those cables don't have male/female separate connectors to solder the wires. (A good wire would be like the one used for notebook mice, multi-vein enameled(don't know the real name in english))
Enough rigidity for the case would be accomplished by adding a stripe of sheet metal from the inner side. You can drill small holes in it, heat it and then press it into the plastic. Btw thermoplastics can be welded with an ordinary soldering iron, that is not too hot. This is done with plastic bumpers of cars that got cracked for example. I did it myself and it works great. You have just to be sure to use the same plastic (PE, PP, ABS or whatever is used).
Could someone of the developers please confirm, how the feed-through of the cable is made in the real Pandora?