Beta Pandora Hotfix 3 - Beta 2

[EvilDragon]

With this speed, there will be already Hotfix 5 or 6 out when I have my Pandora. As more is fixed, that better it is.
But the Bug tracker still seems to be "frozen" and the "Network Manager - Wifi Can't Reconnect" is still there at place one (if you sort by Severity). Will this be included in this (next) Hotfix or is this Problem more complex? I guess it is the only bigger issue, that was left from the beginning (HW Acceleration here and there not counted as Bug) ^^

Well, most firmware devs are taking some (really deserved) time off - as they worked nearly 24/7 during the months before release. Until then, only small fixes (or fixes I can do) or badly broken stuff (like the sound problem on some units) will be fixed.

 

[sebt3]

really deserved

+1000

By the way, for the second time today my pandora when out of low-power mode without setting the cpu speed back to normal.
After waiting a minute to get the menu displayed, I used [pnd]-[power] combo to restart my device. I'm not sure that this is realy related to beta 2

 

[mali]

^ I still fail to see a reason why it has to be _that_ slow in low power mode. Something like 150MHz would be better, imo. It would be great to get instructions how to change the clock speed setting. It's a nice field for some experimenting.

 

[God Ginrai]

^ I still fail to see a reason why it has to be _that_ slow in low power mode. Something like 150MHz would be better, imo. It would be great to get instructions how to change the clock speed setting. It's a nice field for some experimenting.

Well hopefully we can just chuck low power mode all together when we get Suspend to RAM.

-God Ginrai

 

[SomeGuy99]

Low power mode has always been buggy for me. Sometimes it will come out of it when I open the lid and stay locked at 150mhz. Sometimes the LCD just comes back on for no reason.

I don't even bother with it.

 

[mali]

^ It's actually clocked at 14MHz, afaik. If it was clocked higher it wouldn't be necessary to reset when it fails, I suppose.

 

[SomeGuy99]

^ It's actually clocked at 14MHz, afaik. If it was clocked higher it wouldn't be necessary to reset when it fails, I suppose.

Ah, my mistake. Well whatever low number it uses, the thing never works for me.

 

[sebt3]

^ It's actually clocked at 14MHz, afaik. If it was clocked higher it wouldn't be necessary to reset when it fails, I suppose.

Still not "needed", but you'll need way more patience than I'll ever have

 

[God Ginrai]

^ It's actually clocked at 14MHz, afaik. If it was clocked higher it wouldn't be necessary to reset when it fails, I suppose.

Ah, my mistake. Well whatever low number it uses, the thing never works for me.

Well, I have yet to use Low power mode, and I don't plan to, especially with all of these bugs I see people reporting. However, I will use Suspend to RAM a lot when we finally get it working.

-God Ginrai

 

[MooTheKow]

Low power mode has always been buggy for me. Sometimes it will come out of it when I open the lid and stay locked at 150mhz. Sometimes the LCD just comes back on for no reason.

I don't even bother with it.

I see the same behavior. If I open the lid while it is in low power mode - the LCD will turn back on but the entire unit is unresponsive because it seems to be still clocked extremely low. I am not sure what's going on .. also seems that maybe sometimes it responds to pressing the shoulder buttons when it's supposed to be in low power mode -- though not sure on that one. I noticed I put it in low power mode this afternoon (or so I thought) - and 3 or 4 hours later it dropped from 68% battery life to somewhere in the 30s...

 

[WolfpacKxx86]

I think that setting the CPU to 14 MHz is what's causing this huge drop in battery percentage over a short amount of time. With the CPU clocked down to 14 MHz, wouldn't that cause the it to crunch hard at full power in order to maintain all the background services running? Is there any way it can be clocked down to maybe 150 or 200 MHz. I think that may produce a much better result IMO.

 

[God Ginrai]

Low power mode has always been buggy for me. Sometimes it will come out of it when I open the lid and stay locked at 150mhz. Sometimes the LCD just comes back on for no reason.

I don't even bother with it.

I see the same behavior. If I open the lid while it is in low power mode - the LCD will turn back on but the entire unit is unresponsive because it seems to be still clocked extremely low. I am not sure what's going on .. also seems that maybe sometimes it responds to pressing the shoulder buttons when it's supposed to be in low power mode -- though not sure on that one. I noticed I put it in low power mode this afternoon (or so I thought) - and 3 or 4 hours later it dropped from 68% battery life to somewhere in the 30s...

Opening the lid is not supposed to bring you out of low power mode. You must manually flick the power switch to the right again. (Oh heaven forbid we have to actually flick a switch! [/sarcasm])

-God Ginrai

 

[MooTheKow]

Opening the lid is not supposed to bring you out of low power mode. You must manually flick the power switch to the right again. (Oh heaven forbid we have to actually flick a switch! [/sarcasm])

-God Ginrai

Yeah - I wasn't trying to imply that it was supposed to. I'm merely reporting what is _actually_ happening for me. I would much prefer it worked bug-free and would wait until I flick a switch .

 

[God Ginrai]

Opening the lid is not supposed to bring you out of low power mode. You must manually flick the power switch to the right again. (Oh heaven forbid we have to actually flick a switch! [/sarcasm])

-God Ginrai

Yeah - I wasn't trying to imply that it was supposed to. I'm merely reporting what is _actually_ happening for me. I would much prefer it worked bug-free and would wait until I flick a switch .

You are calling this a bug, but it is not. The screen turns on because the function for closing the lid is to turn the screen off and the function for opening the lid is to turn the screen on. Even in low power mode, the system runs the same. The only difference is that when you enter low power mode, the system disables some services (like WiFi) and downclocks the CPU.

-God Ginrai

 

[wdt]

Wolf & Mali:
You might try something like this setspd.sh 120
I don't yet have Pandora so NOT debugged or optimized
!! Two months
Feel free, let us know results
chmod 755 setspd.sh
____________________
#!/bin/bash
#Usage setspd.sh NNN
if [ -w /proc/pandora/cpu_mhz_max ]
then continue;
else chmod +w /proc/pandora/cpu_mhz_max;
fi
if [ $1 -lt 50 ] || [ $1 -gt 900 ]
#replace 50, 900 as desired
then
echo $1 out of range
exit 2
fi

echo $1 >/proc/pandora/cpu_mhz_max
#exit 0

#below lines for debuging, comment out as desired
if [ $1 -eq `cat /proc/pandora/cpu_mhz_max` ]
then echo OK
exit 0
else echo CPU speed `cat /proc/pandora/cpu_mhz_max`
exit 1
fi
#or with 4 chosen speeds a, b, c, or d
#let a == 250
#let b == 500
# ...
#if [ $1 -ne a ] || [ $1 -ne b ] || ...
#echo TYPO, try again
#let 'a' == '
#let 'b' == '
# ...
#exit 3
#else echo $1 >/proc ...
#exit 0
#fi
_________
dave

 

[Azure]

Hmm...Windows 7 still doesn't recognize my Pandora (is there a setting I have to choose on my Pandora after I hook up the USB cable?), and my Pandora doesn't recognize my USB DAC (April Music Stello DA100)...

 

[Pleng]

Hmm...Windows 7 still doesn't recognize my Pandora (is there a setting I have to choose on my Pandora after I hook up the USB cable?), and my Pandora doesn't recognize my USB DAC (April Music Stello DA100)...

Yes, you need to run the Mass Storage driver from the system menu.

 

[Azure]

Hmm...Windows 7 still doesn't recognize my Pandora (is there a setting I have to choose on my Pandora after I hook up the USB cable?), and my Pandora doesn't recognize my USB DAC (April Music Stello DA100)...

Yes, you need to run the Mass Storage driver from the system menu.

Ah, that's the ticket! Thanks! Now to just get it to recognize my DAC...

 

[todd]

I was amused to discover that the "low power mode" switch seems to make a good "pause" button when listening to music. Often when I hit it again, the music will pick back up where it left off (using Exaile). Occasionally it won't.

Also, I need to experiment further, but I believe Wifi is getting switched back on when coming out of low power mode: even if I had switched it off manually (via the menu) earlier. When I'm listening to music at work, I don't need the Wifi chewing through the battery all day. What I really need is a USB cord to charge the battery a little...

 

[doublebeta]

I think that setting the CPU to 14 MHz is what's causing this huge drop in battery percentage over a short amount of time. With the CPU clocked down to 14 MHz, wouldn't that cause the it to crunch hard at full power in order to maintain all the background services running? Is there any way it can be clocked down to maybe 150 or 200 MHz. I think that may produce a much better result IMO.

AFAIK what uses power is the clock being HIGH, all this does would be to stop the pandora from ever using the HLT (or whatever it is in ARM ASM) opcode, which puts the system into halt (how intuitive) for a cycle. Linux does the HLT to essentially downclock unused cycles, so, when put down to 14MHZ, you're just using all of the cycles, instead of having unused cycles where the cycle is used to halt, so you're running at 14MHZ anyway, in effect.

I was amused to discover that the "low power mode" switch seems to make a good "pause" button when listening to music. Often when I hit it again, the music will pick back up where it left off (using Exaile). Occasionally it won't.

Also, I need to experiment further, but I believe Wifi is getting switched back on when coming out of low power mode: even if I had switched it off manually (via the menu) earlier. When I'm listening to music at work, I don't need the Wifi chewing through the battery all day. What I really need is a USB cord to charge the battery a little...

I lol'd . That's the kind of abuse of hardware I like to see . Don't read that wrong, there's very little chance that's bad for your Pandora, perfectly safe.