Opening It Up?


Mjlink

ithic.com
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May 13, 2008
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Bernie Sanders' Land
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So I'm going to remove the battery and the bolts around it on the back. Anything I need to be concerned with when opening this thing up to see if my A button is seated properly?

Thanks in advance!

Peace & Pandora,

Link
 
So I won't thank anyone for the help on this issue. My A button was wonky as some folks put it. My A button wouldn't rest in the same position, it felt unstable, unhappy, not like the rest.

Anyway I decided to tear into this puppy to see what was up. Hell, I used to rip into M1A1 tanks back in the day, and random people 486s & Pentiums a little after that.

Issue was quite obvious to someone who has some attention to detail. When the A button came out of the mold, there was some plastic burl that was nestled up in the back of the A inside the back of the button. To me this leftover burl seemed like it came from the button detaching from the mold. This is quite possibly an issue that others may experience as production continues.

I simply used a regular head screwdriver, small, brand new, & sharp to scrape away the plastic to smooth out the inside of the button like the rest of the BYX clan. I will say the button isn't necessarily 100% right now, but it is much better than it was upon arrival. I totally missed this issue because I wasn't using the A button with MAME or SNES initially. In my excitement for the Pandora I didn't notice this was a problem with the control. Anyway, I can't stress enough that if buttons don't feel right, don't be afraid to have a look see.

My biggest problem in opening the unit was the power button: it is a BITCH, so take note the position it is in upon opening so you can put the button back in that position when closing it up. This sucked really.

Also my shoulder buttons fell off, which I assume is normal, they also had some plastic burls that I removed in a similar fashion to the A button, however nowhere near as bad a presence of excess, just some cosmetics to smoothen up play control ideally. Overtightening some screws will cease the movement of the L/R shoulders I've found. There is a happy medium.

*Realize that the screws aren't all the same size, so keep them in the right holes.
** There is a cable that is for the speakers I'm assuming that has its own happy little gap that it needs to be replaced in, when removing the board, be sure to be gentle around this cable & be sure of its proper replacement.

So problem is somewhat fixed. I'd be happy to pay for some unpainted ABXY buttons at some point. Properly shaven of course.

Peace & Pandora,

Link
 
thanks for the advice, I will take into account when opening my pandora

shouldnt "opening tips" be part of the wiki?
 
A video or photo tutorial would be nice. Someone will do it sooner or later, I'm sure.
 
chame said:
shouldnt "opening tips" be part of the wiki?
I would advice against it, not without a lot of disclaimers, at least. I think OPT wants to discourage people from opening their Pandora as much as possible. Putting a how-to on the wiki may be seen as an invitation by some. And then there are lawsuits, and stupid people win. Do you want the stupid people to win? How communist of you.
:p
 
Last edited by a moderator:
how does the forum differ from the wiki? none of it is private.

What does need saying is that the WiFi antenna cable is probably rated for approximately ONE mate/unmate cycle. Any more than 10 cycles, and it is likely to suffer in performance. (I haven't looked up it's data sheet, just speaking from experience of these small push-fit coax connectors)
 
^ The wiki implies to be somewhat official or at least blessed by the company, else it would have to be called "unofficial Pandora wiki" or something similar, imo. The boards are recognized to be independent.

Good point on the durability of the antenna connector.
 
Not sure what´s better, a gravedig or a new thread. One way or the other, I´d like to thank Mjlink for the solution. My A button was weird as well and this method fixed it to be exactly the same as the others.

Are there any other cases of gaming buttons that feel like they have a little extra play?
 
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