Joystick Mod

[Willei]

Be very careful with a Dremel - the blade moves so fast that you often end up melting the plastic away rather than cutting it. You could mess up the shape of the hole in the stick that way, which is why I went for a small serrated knife instead.

 

[Kayday]

Actually that's how I removed the plastic stem. With the sand paper attachment on the dremel. Melts it away. Just don't do it on high speed. Use low speed and take your time.

My only problem is doing dragon punches when facing left in any of the fighting games. It always registers as a fireball. Very easy to do when facing right. I'm not sure if a new improved joystick from GHP will fix it though.

 

[Turambar]

My effort...

I used a scalpel. Craft/stanley knife is probably the best way to go.

Now all it needs is some rubberiser...

 

[nubie]

I had to raise my pad as it was being prevented by the casing from registering left. As the thumbpad was pushed to the left it was coming into contact with the case, preventing further movement, before the switch was being activated. If I tried this fix on mine I would be back where I started.

​

If you have that, it is just an issue of the circuit board shifting, loosen all the screws, then tighten in a star pattern, a few turns at a time per screw, works every time for me.

I tighten down, check by moving the stick while looking to see if it contacts the faceplate, then tightening all the way if it is in place.

Interestingly enough, I find that too far Right makes right and Up right crappy, and there is the screen thing with the dark spot that changes when I move the stick.

Too far Left makes the stick contact the faceplate.

Like I said, tightening down the screws slowly in different patterns while shifting the circuit board will eventually get it to where it is perfect, I haven't had any problems with down, like DaveC reports, but I would be sure to make the stick centered in the face hole Up/Down, as well as Left/Right.

 

[codesmith]

I had to raise my pad as it was being prevented by the casing from registering left.  As the thumbpad was pushed to the left it was coming into contact with the case, preventing further movement, before the switch was being activated.  If I tried this fix on mine I would be back where I started.

​

If you have that, it is just an issue of the circuit board shifting, loosen all the screws, then tighten in a star pattern, a few turns at a time per screw, works every time for me.

I tighten down, check by moving the stick while looking to see if it contacts the faceplate, then tightening all the way if it is in place.

Interestingly enough, I find that too far Right makes right and Up right crappy, and there is the screen thing with the dark spot that changes when I move the stick.

Too far Left makes the stick contact the faceplate.

Like I said, tightening down the screws slowly in different patterns while shifting the circuit board will eventually get it to where it is perfect, I haven't had any problems with down, like DaveC reports, but I would be sure to make the stick centered in the face hole Up/Down, as well as Left/Right.

​

Actually, I do have problems with thew down direction too (sometimes it doesn't register so I have to press down a few times), I assumed it was a bug in the ebook reader, it's the gp2x program I use in which the down direction gets used the most. When you say 'the screws', you mean the case screws holding the unit closed right? won't messing with those void your guarantee?

 

[nubie]

Actually, I do have problems with thew down direction too (sometimes it doesn't register so I have to press down a few times), I assumed it was a bug in the ebook reader, it's the gp2x program I use in which the down direction gets used the most. When you say 'the screws', you mean the case screws holding the unit closed right? won't messing with those void your guarantee?

​

I don't think so, the info floating around says GPH recommends, on advice from an engineer, to loosen screws for fixing of screen spot problem and direction glitches.

 

[Thraka]

I donno I just hate the stick much more than i hated the Gp32's stick.

Will it ever be possible to do a pad on it? When I use the firmwares butten tester I find it's so easy to hit a cornor when you're trying to go up or side. And so easy to hit up\side when you go for a cornor.

If I cannot get some sort of fix for it, I'll gladly sell it to a dev for 75% stock price, and be done

 

[CoinOp]

I donno I just hate the stick much more than i hated the Gp32's stick.

Will it ever be possible to do a pad on it? When I use the firmwares butten tester I find it's so easy to hit a cornor when you're trying to go up or side. And so easy to hit up\side when you go for a cornor.

If I cannot get some sort of fix for it, I'll gladly sell it to a dev for 75% stock price, and be done

​

Just hold on there buddy. I hate the stick more then anyone. It's frustrating and unnatural. However, the GP2X is BAD ASS. This is the hand held that will rule them all. I TRULY belive that someone smart will create an aftermarket joystick/pad replacement that works.

From my recent experience "trying" to do the retrocon mod, I can attest that a replacement stick can do wonders for the feel of the unit. Before I fucked my first retrocon stick beyond repair with a hot screw I experienced RESPONSIVNES! Go figure. I would give it a bit of time before you offload it.

Now back to waiting for my dremel so I can do the second stick right...

CoinOp

 

[Thraka]

Thanks for the encouraging words.. It's just hard because literally I cannot play anything.. Especially older console games are hard.'

Do you thinkt he GP2X guys are listening to us crying? I hope they improve it and send me a free conversion mod hehehe.

I'm just impatient and I want a handheld to play games with. My wife has a DS which means I get DS games and GBA games, I just need to see how easy it becomes to hack\crack to get emulators to run on it. It doesn't seem so good yet though

But I do agree I've always thought the Gp2X would be the king and be really awesome, but the joystick thing is killing me...

 

[Quiest]

That fix totally messed up my stick <_< Thanks Craig...

Now the stick is too far in, and NO direction is registered.
Now I`ll have to search a way to repair it or make a replacement stick...

 

[sam fisher]

UMMMMM its craig and you seem to be the only oen with that problem. WHy did you do it anyway. Im gonna keep mine teh way it is!

 

[Mr. Anderson]

My effort...

I used a scalpel. Craft/stanley knife is probably the best way to go.

Now all it needs is some rubberiser...

​

You cut off the whole shaft? and it's better now? Doesn't the stick fall out too easy???

 

[Turambar]

Hasn't fallen out once so far (this might be different for someone that is a little more heavy on the stick edges) and its better for me. I suspect it will only help if youi have a problem with the shaft hitting the gp2x casing.

 

[Bleeg]

I tried it, using a sharp x-acto knife while holding the plastic piece with a wrench (I wouldn't try it holding it with just your fingers - the wrench slightly damaged the edges, but better than slicing myself.) The hole in the "mushroom cap" is deep enough to keep the piece fairly secure onto the shaft after the operation. Sorry no pics; I don't have a camera on me.

I for one am happy with the shorter throw distance now. Between this and loosening the shaft a bit (turning it counter-clockwise a number of times with some pliers) I think it's a much better stick than how I received it. Next I'll pick up some black rubberiser to help fix the slipperiness (thanks for the reminder, Mr. Anderson.)

Edit: er, I mean thanks Turambar

 

[matt goode]

My favourite joystick was the neo geo pockets, that ruled in fighting games! (about all the ngpc had)

Edit: typos...as usual

 

[Julius]

I don't get it... even after close inspection of my stick I can see no way this is going to improve the stick problem, as the plastic-shaft of the stick does not touch anything, and the metal stick is the limiting factor for height...
Or am I just to stupid to see the obvious?

 

[Mr. Anderson]

I don't get it... even after close inspection of my stick I can see no way this is going to improve the stick problem, as the plastic-shaft of the stick does not touch anything, and the metal stick is the limiting factor for height...
Or am I just to stupid to see the obvious?

​

I guess it lowers the distance the D-Stick is out of the system, that way altering the deathzone a little bit. However I won't do that mod, not until I find a way to get a better stick on there that has a bit more grip...

 

[jkgamer]

I had to raise my pad as it was being prevented by the casing from registering left. As the thumbpad was pushed to the left it was coming into contact with the case, preventing further movement, before the switch was being activated. If I tried this fix on mine I would be back where I started.

​

I had to do the same thing. However, I found that the tip of a Nintendo DS stylus was the perfect size to fit into the control knob's shaft. I just cut the tip off of the DS stylus and carefully dropped it in to the knob's shaft. I then replaced the knob onto the joystick rod and have been enjoying DrMD ever since. No more problems. B)

 

[chris_r]

That fix totally messed up my stick <_< Thanks Craig...

Now the stick is too far in, and NO direction is registered.
Now I`ll have to search a way to repair it or make a replacement stick...

​

I never seemed to have any problems with the joystick having a dead zone before because my stick was reletively low, but recently it got so low that it hit the edges and didnt move far enough to register.

So I rolled up a bit of card about 1mm wide and put that inside the joystick cap and thats raised it just enough to stop it hitting the edges.

Maybe you could be having the same problem?

 

[Paradox]

well, im getting fed up with my joystick so i thought i'd try the only mod possible with what i have, which is the stock cap..

so basically, all im doing is cutting off the shaft, like this?:

i cant really see how this will do anything though?

is this only for peoples who's cap shaft touches the sides of the case? because mine doesnt, but the head of the cap does