Guide: How To Build Your Own D-pad (& Centre-push)

[bacteria]

Only at thinking stage at the moment, any ideas "from those in the know" would be appreciated.

I was thinking of doing away with all the buttons on the GP2x, connecting the 2 connectors for each button onto wires, these wires can then work with commercial buttons (Maplins). The issue is that the top of the GP2x needs to be at the top of the modded case (SD card access) and the screen needs to be in the same place; but the rest of the unit I was thinking could be completely stuck in place by hot glue and blu-tac (in more sensitive areas of the motherboard). Do I need airflow, or is this ok?

This means it would be easier to mount the motherboard into a new case - it would be stuck permanently in place. All you need to do then is to make the case longer to left (for GameCube joystick and D-pad) and to the right (A,B,Y,X,Select,Start,on/off buttons). It would look a bit like a Lynx GameGear (only slightly bigger and with a bigger screen - you get the idea).


I had another design idea; rather than having a D-pad on the front of your existing GP2x (as it is at the moment), you could easily use your large finger on your left hand, on the REAR of the GP2x (by the battery compartment area) as a larger D-pad. You have plenty of space for this inverted D-pad, plently of space to make a large one (like on the Intellivision), 8 directions if you want - or buttons. Try it yourself - hold the GP2x as normal, but pretend you have buttons on the back of the GP2x - it would work!!

 

[Epicenter]

Heh, that's a funny concept; I kind of like it. However it does not afford enough control, a D-Pad is natural to use because your thumb can cover a large surface area and allow wide, sweeping movements, sliding from one direction to the next. With your index finger you must make precise calculated movements and button presses that don't allow for much fluidity of control. I'd find it almost impossible to get used to, especially after over 19 years spent using D-Pads that rest under my left thumb and nowhere else!

 

[bacteria]

Heh, that's a funny concept; I kind of like it. However it does not afford enough control, a D-Pad is natural to use because your thumb can cover a large surface area and allow wide, sweeping movements, sliding from one direction to the next. With your index finger you must make precise calculated movements and button presses that don't allow for much fluidity of control. I'd find it almost impossible to get used to, especially after over 19 years spent using D-Pads that rest under my left thumb and nowhere else!

Yes, I agree, it was just one of my quirky ideas - the thumb is better for a D-pad! Mind you, Epicenter, it would ensure you could finally mount your D-pad into the GP2x, pain free! :lol:

Anyway, any thoughts on whether my thoughts of a paper mache GP2x case, with the motherboard glued and blu-tac'ed permanently into the right space (with trailing wires for the other buttons) would cause any issues (eg heat, etc)? I doubt it would, but thought I would confir with others incase they had any input! If this is ok, the rest of the case build would be straightforward; at least in theory.

I was trying to think of any other material I could use for the new case; plastic of course is preferred, but it needs to be easy to get hold of, very tough and rigid (no give), and easy to buy in small quantities. Anyone used PolyMorph (which Radek used) on a thin (2mm?) fairly large piece; if not, I remember from my early schooldays (a long time ago) making plate shapes with paper mache and painting them - it was very rigid, tough, strong and light - that is why I thought of it this time around. Material is very cheap - only discarded strips of newspaper and a flour and water paste... :wacko:

 

[chunkyktr]

@bacteria

i use polymorph quite a bit- it's possible to use it at 2mm by rolling it out with a rolling pin, but it becomes very difficult to work with as it cools down very quickly. the best way to work it is by moulding it on a negative or a positive (or sandwich between the two).

it all depends on which way your thinking of using it?

 

[bacteria]

@bacteria

i use polymorph quite a bit- it's possible to use it at 2mm by rolling it out with a rolling pin, but it becomes very difficult to work with as it cools down very quickly. the best way to work it is by moulding it on a negative or a positive (or sandwich between the two).

it all depends on which way your thinking of using it?

"the best way to work it is by moulding it on a negative or a positive" ? sorry, don't know what you mean.

Is PolyMorph as strong as the GP2x plastic outer case, for example at 2mm thick, or is it not as rigid/strong/inflexible? If it isn't robust and rigid, paper mache might be the only choice available!

 

[chunkyktr]

polymorph is a different type of plastic to the 2x casings- so has different properties, but it's still a plastic and the basic attributes are the same depending on the form it takes.

polymorph is essentially like nylon- it can be strong when thick and flexible when thin with 'some' memory (it goes back to shape if you bend it) and its hard wearing. put this with how easy polymorph is to use...perfect for so many things!!

positives and negatives...

a positive is what your moulding from and a negative is the mould you have created from the positive. you put stuff into the negative you have created and make a duplicate positive.

and a sandwich...

take an item(the positive) with an inner and outer side and make a negative of both sides, then use both negatives to make a positive by 'sandwiching' your material between them. for example... say you have stripped your 2x out of its casings and you have the front casing at hand- you take a lump of polymorph and mould it into the inner side of the case, let it harden and pull it out, then you mould another lump of polymorph on the outside of the case, harden and pull off. take your two moulds and sandwich some thin polymorph between the two moulds and press together and let harden. there you go, replacement front casing(in theory!!)

i hope that explains it for you, its the best i can do at the mo' cos its late and i'm fried!

 

[bacteria]

polymorph is a different type of plastic to the 2x casings- so has different properties, but it's still a plastic and the basic attributes are the same depending on the form it takes.

polymorph is essentially like nylon- it can be strong when thick and flexible when thin with 'some' memory (it goes back to shape if you bend it) and its hard wearing. put this with how easy polymorph is to use...perfect for so many things!!

positives and negatives...

a positive is what your moulding from and a negative is the mould you have created from the positive. you put stuff into the negative you have created and make a duplicate positive.

and a sandwich...

take an item(the positive) with an inner and outer side and make a negative of both sides, then use both negatives to make a positive by 'sandwiching' your material between them. for example... say you have stripped your 2x out of its casings and you have the front casing at hand- you take a lump of polymorph and mould it into the inner side of the case, let it harden and pull it out, then you mould another lump of polymorph on the outside of the case, harden and pull off. take your two moulds and sandwich some thin polymorph between the two moulds and press together and let harden. there you go, replacement front casing(in theory!!)

i hope that explains it for you, its the best i can do at the mo' cos its late and i'm fried!

Thanks for the comments. Looks like paper mache is going to be stronger and more suitable - end result needs to be fairly thin, totally inflexible, tough and light.

 

[thumpgun]

could you not just snip the joystick stem shorter and sand the black caps edge so that it fits and sits nearly flush

 

[Shadowsithe]

"The goal of any MOD is to allow the device to appear and operate as if it were never modified." - StarkGray.net

Yours gets the job done. It's just... an obvious mod. Does that make sense? Still cool.

 

[prairiefire]

could you not just snip the joystick stem shorter and sand the black caps edge so that it fits and sits nearly flush

"The goal of any MOD is to allow the device to appear and operate as if it were never modified." - StarkGray.net

Yours gets the job done. It's just... an obvious mod. Does that make sense? Still cool.

Has anyone actually just done this alone? If so, how did it rate compared to the regular stick?

 

[quadomatic]

http://www.gp32x.de/board/index.php?showtopic=43361

Bacteria, could you help me out?