christo930
Well-Known Member
Despite the age of my GP2X, I still love using it to play my favorite older games and some of the homebrews as well. But I seem to be having some sort of power problem. I estimate that the GP2X uses about 1.2 watts. I haven't done it in quite a while, but there is a power program that your can run that displays a fire on the screen and writes to the card every 10 minutes or so and it consitently lasted about 5 hours on a freshly charged set of 2500MAH cells. So it's not really taxing the cells with a 500ma draw. Lately I have been having the problem of the machine not wanting to start up, it makes the chime and then switches to the loading device screen and then starts having a quirky screen and fails to boot. It will do this on a freshly charged set of cells.
For a while, I though it was the battery connectors. On the top battery I installed a spring and on the bottom battery I put cardboard behind the (terribly designed) 'leaf' type spring connector to get a tighter fit. I also rubbed on the connecters with aluminum foil to remove any surface defects on the connectors.
I have an old Colecovision and it does the same thing and the fix is to open it up and spray electronics cleaner into the on/off switch. It makes me wonder if my problem is in the switch and not in the battery compartment. Also, once I get it to successfully boot, the red light will sometimes blink on when it's writing to the card. Is the GP2X F100 known to have a problem with the power switch? Is this something worth pursuing? I've never opened it up and I don't have an anti-static wristband handy and I don't want to open it if it's most likely not the problem.
Also, the machine came with 4 batteries and I never bothered with them because I had other ones. Thinking my batteries (despite them being relatively new, less than a year old) might have been damaged in another project, I took the (gp2x branded) batteries out of the box and they are totally dead. I put them in a charge and the charger doesn't even know they are there. Is this normal for NIMH cells? I have Ni-Cad cells that are 20 years old and still work fine. Is there a way to fix them (like how you fix internally shorted Ni-cad cells)? Would it be worth hitting them with 9V (which is what I do with Ni-cads that short or won't hold a charge) to see if they can be brought back to life?
If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.
Chris
For a while, I though it was the battery connectors. On the top battery I installed a spring and on the bottom battery I put cardboard behind the (terribly designed) 'leaf' type spring connector to get a tighter fit. I also rubbed on the connecters with aluminum foil to remove any surface defects on the connectors.
I have an old Colecovision and it does the same thing and the fix is to open it up and spray electronics cleaner into the on/off switch. It makes me wonder if my problem is in the switch and not in the battery compartment. Also, once I get it to successfully boot, the red light will sometimes blink on when it's writing to the card. Is the GP2X F100 known to have a problem with the power switch? Is this something worth pursuing? I've never opened it up and I don't have an anti-static wristband handy and I don't want to open it if it's most likely not the problem.
Also, the machine came with 4 batteries and I never bothered with them because I had other ones. Thinking my batteries (despite them being relatively new, less than a year old) might have been damaged in another project, I took the (gp2x branded) batteries out of the box and they are totally dead. I put them in a charge and the charger doesn't even know they are there. Is this normal for NIMH cells? I have Ni-Cad cells that are 20 years old and still work fine. Is there a way to fix them (like how you fix internally shorted Ni-cad cells)? Would it be worth hitting them with 9V (which is what I do with Ni-cads that short or won't hold a charge) to see if they can be brought back to life?
If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.
Chris