Are Pandora Components Available?

[chame]

Today I broke my pandora audio chip. I think it is the DA converter, or maybe the amp. Send the pandora to repair will have 2xshipping cost, plus the repair itself. I have some experience with solder, and if I could get the correct parts...

So I would like to know if the pandora parts are available. there are many other parts that break and could be great to have: L-R buttons, D-Pad stick (mine lost the paint already), LCD, etc...


(fried circuit on the right and left of audio jack)

 

[cosam]

How did you manage to fry it like that? I guess at least it's obvious which part bit the dust!

There has always been talk of spare parts being made available eventually, but I'm not sure it goes down to this sort of level. You could try contacting your distributor - you might just get lucky. Otherwise, maybe you can at least get the part number from them, or from one of the photos floating around. I doubt it's anything exotic but the trick is of course finding a supplier who'll sell it to you in low quantities.

 

[chame]

I connected it to my car audio. I was working great, listening some nice genesis tunes, and then some kind of overvoltage

I fell really stupid, at least the unit works well, except the audio...

I already emailed pandoraorder to ask about the repair

 

[urjaman]

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-10843-5-ND

Source of data that its a TPA6110A2 is unknown (somebody in the lets label this mofo thread), thus not 100% reliable, but if you're going to try, that would be my guess.

EDIT: I think the hardest part of the repair is to remove the old chip, since it seems this chip is also soldered down in the middle (I think for heat transfer). See: http://gs113.photobucket.com/groups/n213/I0S2J7KION/?action=view&current=final_board_1.jpg

 

[chame]

it could be great to know the exact one, mweston u there?

anyway, the small chip on the right seems to be also fried. I can only see those two compenents affected.

if someone know where to buy the chip on the right, I will definetly try and replace them both

thanks

edit:thsnk for the advice. the fried one is already lost, so I will put the solder directly over it

I forgot to say, headphones doesnt work, either the speakers

 

[urjaman]

it could be great to know the exact one, mweston u there?

edit:thsnk for the advice. the fried one is already lost, so I will put the solder directly over it

If you mean U20, then Dont (!!!). (I didnt notice that it was also fried at first, if it is that is). That looks like some kind of a transistor*, but MW will need to fill you in on that.

*EDIT: Not a simple transistor, some chip in SOT23-5 package (if I'm correct). Dont solder over it, I'd guess it has both a power supply and ground attached => some other thing will blow.

EDIT2: Obvious that the speakers dont work, they're driven by that same blown amp that drives the headphone output (putting in headphones into the socket cuts out the speakers).

 

[MWeston]

U13: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-10843-5-ND
U20: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-21694-1-ND

You'll need to remove both parts. I wouldn't be putting a new part over top of the old ones. That ESD diode could be fused to ground now. You can remove U20 and not put a new one on and you will just be more susceptible to static damage unless you can find the part somewhere else. U13 is going to be tough to remove without some careful hot air reflow. The metal pad underneath it is soldered to the board.

What the heck did you do to blow it up like that!? That looks like you tried to wire the speaker outputs of your amp to the Pandora's headphone output. Poof!

 

[chame]

seems that my car radio has some kind of voltage issue ...

many thanks MW, I will post the results here

 

[gruso]

Damn. So you were running it into a 3.5mm input jack on the front of the stereo? I wonder how many car stereos present hazards like this.

 

[Tom`]

Damn. So you were running it into a 3.5mm input jack on the front of the stereo? I wonder how many car stereos present hazards like this.

I hope one of those tape adapters won't present any issues - that's what I use.

 

[chame]

I removed U13. It was easy, didnt feel like soldered to the board, and also it was broken in small (burned) pieces

bought the parts and will arrive in a couple of days. I will try just replacing the U13, I think to solder the tiny U20 will be impossible with a normal solder and a cutter, maybe will work just replacing the amp...

burned U13 removed

 

[sehs33]

Call me paranoid, but is there anything we can add to the 3.5 mm m to m cable connecting Pandoras to stereos to prevent such thing from happening? I didn't dare to connect mine yet, but I might do it some day and would love to have a cable with a fuse like thing ready.

 

[Prometheus]

^ You're not the only one wondering that. It's a bit worrying (with regard to the stereos, not with regard to the Pandora, so to speak) if this isn't a lone freak occurrence and there are a number of stereos out there that could do that to a Pandora.

 

[urjaman]

A pair of http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=507-1004-ND these inline (in the signal lines) in the cable could help if one is paranoid about this, but be noted that they have a measurable resistance thus will cause some drop of signal quality, and not good for headphones, but in a pandora <-> some nonloading input-cable i could consider them.

 

[chame]

I received the amp and soldered. it works somehow...

in case something like this happens o you:

- it is impossible so solder U20 with standard solderer. to remove it didnt affect to the audio, as MW said
- it is difficult to solder U13 with standard solderer. damm, it is the most difficult thing I ever did...
- the amp was not the origin of the damage. something else related with right sound line was screwed (resistor, transistor I dont know..). connecting the amp to Rin or/and Rout resulted in amp burning again. so I soldered only Lin Lout, and made a bridge to Rline.

so now I have a mono sound mandora, but at least sound works again. thnx all of you for the support