Weird Screen/graphics Issues

[Viral18]

I seem to have weird multicoloured graphical glitches/dots on everything on my Pandora. I tried a reflash and the issue's still there so my screen may be broken Has anyone else experienced this on Pandora or any other screen? Any ideas/ answers... I get the feeling I may have to invoke my Warranty already...

 

[mali]

You "tried" to reflash or did you complete the reflash? Sounds like an LCD(cable) fault, indeed. Does the effect vary when you tilt the screen in different angles?

 

[Viral18]

You "tried" to reflash or did you complete the reflash? Sounds like an LCD(cable) fault, indeed. Does the effect vary when you tilt the screen in different angles?

Yeah the reflash went fine. The Pandora seems fully working, just that the screen seems to have problems. You're probably right that it's a cable fault, as mine was one of those with a bowing bezel, so that probably greatly increases the risk of screen problems. I'd take it apart and try and clean it but i'd rather keep my warranty. Doesn't seem to change based on screen tilt angle, though guess I should contact OP sales and see about getting it repaired.

 

[mali]

Yes, contacting OPT is the best you should do.

 

[Viral18]

Yes, contacting OPT is the best you should do.

Thanks for the advice
Just sent them an email so hopefully it won't be an awkward matter to get fixed From the things i've read on these forums regarding OPT's customer support I feel fairly positive it'll be ok.

 

[daeleo]

I seem to have weird multicoloured graphical glitches/dots on everything on my Pandora. I tried a reflash and the issue's still there so my screen may be broken Has anyone else experienced this on Pandora or any other screen? Any ideas/ answers... I get the feeling I may have to invoke my Warranty already...

I had the same damned problem, looked like some sort of glitchy dithering effect, that happened to me about 5 days ago...
Intermittently it would fix itself, only after it had been off a while I noticed.

Now the problem has evolved and the screen fizzles out entirely after a few minutes of use, I even made a video of it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xILW9KAESGE

Sure doesn't look like the firmware as it affects the boot-loader too, overheat perhaps? (I've taken delicate care of this thing.)

On an unrelated note, my battery never charges past 81%, (perhaps it sits there trying to charge it in low power mode and cooks it?)

 

[Mofokubik]

Now the problem has evolved and the screen fizzles out after a few minutes of use entirely, I even made a video of it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xILW9KAESGE

That video reminds me of mario paint.

ahem.. sorry to hear about your pandoras dae and viral hope you get replacements soon.

 

[EvilDragon]

Well, it could be as simple as the cable isn't properly placed in the connector.
That happened to two of my customers in Germany..

This can be fixed by opening up the back case and carefully open the connector, put the cable in all the way down and close it again.

Be careful to not break anything though (as usual)

 

[daeleo]

Well, it could be as simple as the cable isn't properly placed in the connector.
That happened to two of my customers in Germany..

This can be fixed by opening up the back case and carefully open the connector, put the cable in all the way down and close it again.

Be careful to not break anything though (as usual)

You're right! jiggling the screen around does seem to have an effect and occasionally correct the issue (sort of, if I hold it at a twisted angle against the hinge, the desktop either comes back partially or in that dithered state)

I think I'll give it a shot! Did you mean unplugging and plugging the cable into the main board or the screen itself?

Will my warranty remain intact?

 

[Prometheus]

On an unrelated note, my battery never charges past 81%, (perhaps it sits there trying to charge it in low power mode and cooks it?)

This sounds like your battery isn't quite aligned correctly with the contacts inside of the battery compartment - in fact, it's a common symptom of that. Try taking it out and re-seating it.

 

[MWeston]

I just want to make some general statements to anyone taking their unit apart with or without permission. I guess the warranty thing is ED's call if you are his customer.

If you are going to remove the LCD cable from the connector, the smartest plan is to over do everything. For example, use two fingernails to pop the black tab up so it is supported on both sides. Don't just flick it up in the middle because it is hinged at the edges. Use two finger tips to push the black tab down after the cable is fully inserted. There will be about a millimeter of gap between the two side tabs and the body of the connector when it is fully inserted. Don't try to keep pushing it in if it is that close or you will break the side tabs.

Back the cable out slowly and evenly. Use the two tabs on the side of the cable to push it out but don't use a lot of force because it's not that strong. It's important to take it out (and put it back in) very evenly (ie. don't let one side sit way in while the other side is almost completely backed out) because there are metal barbs inside the connector that scrape against the cable. This is how it makes the solid connection. It's usually low friction when moving the cable in and out but I have found that large angles can cause more friction because the cable can lift up on a side inside the connector.

You will have to lift the PCB out a bit to totally free the LCD cable from the connector and also the same thing when putting the connector back in. Don't lose your power switch and be very mindful of the small white post of the switch itself. It's very fragile and I don't see anyone covering that under warranty if you snap it off. To just push the connector in tighter like ED suggests here, you won't have to lift the PCB up at all.

Further to anyone who does lift the PCB out, pay attention to the microphone element on the other side when moving the PCB. The two leads are soldered onto the PCB with their lead length preserved which makes them fragile. They don't break off at the Pandora side but the soldering done by the mic manufacturer to add those wires to the mic element is pretty weak and they snap easily. Again, that might not be considered a warranty approved breakage for obvious reasons.

Finally, find a way to ground yourself out before ever touching the bare PCB anywhere. Touch the side of a metal lamp or the screw on an electrical socket or even better, wear a static strap! This kind of damage would be the one reason I don't like anyone taking their unit apart at all. There have been returned units expecting warranty repair that clearly show signs of being opened and it has been honored but I don't know what level of skill these customers have and how careful they were.

 

[daeleo]

Thank you kindly MWeston, I shall heed your advice to the letter [IF I attempt this, *wink*]... while I'm in there, any advice on how to reseat a nub? One of the nubs on my unit was installed with the top terribly crooked and is a bit of a hindrance. ( maybe I can even steady that damned R trigger)...

Also, thank you Prometheus, I'll take a closer look

You guys are awesome!

 

[gruso]

Great post MW, added to Hacker Manual thread.

 

[daeleo]

Alas, to no avail my friend, it was indeed a smidge crooked, say by nearly 1mm, but correcting (even going in again to gently tug it out further and reseat it) hasn't changed a thing, it still responds in exactly the same way as the video, like some over-charging capacitor or overheat failure.. it's very curious..

I appreciate everyone's efforts :/