quadomatic
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DittoPrometheus said:Only if someone's not careful with their things. I've *never* had an LCD break. Ever.
Be more careful y'all
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DittoPrometheus said:Only if someone's not careful with their things. I've *never* had an LCD break. Ever.
palmertech said:No need to worry! The Archos 605 uses the same screen. Now there used to be a place that sold them, but not anymore. However... This is one of the few situations where the Pandora benefits from a stupid copy protections scheme! Every Archos 605 hard drive is locked to the player it came in, so it is impossible to replace or fix. What does that mean? It means we can buy broken ones for under $150! And while you cannot replace the hard drive in the Archos, you are able to make it into a general purpose 1.8" usb hard drive! So when you buy a broken archos, you get a new screen, and/or a 160gb mini hard drive! Pretty good deal, if you ask me.
The key, I believe is in those two little words - depending on what gets broken of screen, hdd or something else - you either get a hdd, or a screen or possibly both, respectively.
But I could easily be wrong too.
That is a possibility of what you could do. But I think he was saying that if one essential part fails (either hard drive or screen) it will be up on ebay for a good price, so you can get the other part for cheap by purchasing it.chad78 said:From the way I read it, let's say the Archos 605 broke in such a way that neither the hard drive nor the screen were harmed, but it no longer functioned as a PMP, (which, what else is there to break? The software, surely it's unbrickable. The buttons? Power supply? Battery? Aren't those replaceable? But anyway...)
I think what was being suggested is that you could take the screen and use it for the Pandora - and use the "headless" Archos as a USB hard drive.
But I could easily be wrong.
quadomatic said:DittoPrometheus said:Only if someone's not careful with their things. I've *never* had an LCD break. Ever.
Be more careful y'all
In 20 years of gadgets, I've only ever had one LCD break, on my palm pilot. <random-anecdote>This was about 6 years ago, probably about -40 or so out. It was only a 10 minute walk to the office so I bundle up warm and trudge out. Get there, and no one has opened the door yet. So I pull out my Palm to find the number for the building super, only to find the screen cracked. It had taken far more abuse over the years than I put to it that morning, so I can only assume it was the cold that did it.
Turns out it was one of the coldest days in recorded history and no one in their right mind was coming in.
</random-anecdote>
Megamixman said:Also from the pictures I have seen, it uses a ZIF Cable, so I can't see how it would be physically locked.
nubie said:I would actually like a bare PCB....
I understand what you are saying, and the economic reasons that make you ask. I am curious as to why you would want the pcb rather than going the BeagleBoard route, especially as the kernel/firmware etc would be optimised for the Pandora hardware which would not be present. If you don't use that kernel/firmware etc, the Pandora compatibility goes. At which point the BeagleBoard with HDMI/DVI out etc becomes a better option. Curious as to the logic as I was thinking of a BeagleBoard early next year.
TaG said:nubie said:I would actually like a bare PCB....
I understand what you are saying, and the economic reasons that make you ask. I am curious as to why you would want the pcb rather than going the BeagleBoard route, especially as the kernel/firmware etc would be optimised for the Pandora hardware which would not be present. If you don't use that kernel/firmware etc, the Pandora compatibility goes. At which point the BeagleBoard with HDMI/DVI out etc becomes a better option. Curious as to the logic as I was thinking of a BeagleBoard early next year.
Well, I figured that it would still have the dual SD, TV-Out and the single USB 1.1 host (not that it is worth much).
I would use the Kernel/firmware as though it was a TV connected Pandora with USB interface devices.
If I had to I would use the onboard buttons, perhaps wired to the face of the old A/V equipment.
It might be cheaper, the Beagleboard seems to have a few extra chips (although the Pandora has Wifi and dual analogs).
On a hardware level I think I could use the Pandora firmware as-is (maybe with just a patch for S-Video output all the time), because of all the stuff it would be a lot more compatible with the homebrew here.
I think that we will see a lot of people setting up their beagleboard to use Pandora applications/OS, as the base hardware is so similar, consisting in the main of an OMAP. If that is the case then a BeagleBoard may work fine too.
I started a thread on it already: http://www.gp32x.de/board/index.php?showtopic=43597&hl=
LOLpeca said:NUBIE: So make a deal: PCB for You, LCD for Viking and rest is mine
nubie said:lets see, $40-50 for the LCD, $40-50 for the case, that is $110-130 for me to spend (+shipping of course). I like it!
Shouldn't that add up to $330? You are between $100-$140 out.
I was going to discuss your board idea but I'll do that in the other thread.
TaG said:nubie said:lets see, $40-50 for the LCD, $40-50 for the case, that is $110-130 for me to spend (+shipping of course). I like it!
Shouldn't that add up to $330? You are between $100-$140 out.
I was going to discuss your board idea but I'll do that in the other thread.
Exactly, we should be able to purchase the spares from Craig to avoid all this confusing math