Grench
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Vertical offset is as good as a gap though.
Move volume 3 left by esc.
F5-F6 can then be next to F4 but 1/2 row back.
F9-F12 move left 1 key.
Simple.
Adding Trackpoint to Keyboard
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Move volume 3 left by esc.
F5-F6 can then be next to F4 but 1/2 row back.
F9-F12 move left 1 key.
Simple.
levi
Still fresh, damnit!
That could work, although looking at the design now, I see they're keen on having a pair of six key clusters to the top right. Also, I kind of appreciate the benefits of having Esc as an island, when I'm wildly stabbing towards it to get out of whatever crazy vim mode my touchpad has gotten me into now. Accidentally muting the system can be a difficult debug sometimes.
I've been playing with this guy https://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/input_devices/anidees_prismatic_bluetooth_keyboard_review/1
It's a nice candidate for a laptop keyboard imo, but i cannot unscrew the 10 phillips screws on the front... they turn, but they don't come out!
What black magic is this? How do i get the case open for trackpoint addition?
Cheers.
It's a nice candidate for a laptop keyboard imo, but i cannot unscrew the 10 phillips screws on the front... they turn, but they don't come out!
What black magic is this? How do i get the case open for trackpoint addition?
Cheers.
levi
Still fresh, damnit!
It may be they're not actually screws, but instead bolts with an associated nut on the other end. That'd be highly unusual if it's the only way in, but if it's also got a melted plastic seam or clips, I wouldn't put it past them.
If you can get under the head at all, lifting it while unscrewing using a screwdriver might get you in, but if it's recessed, you might be out of luck getting in that way.
Edit: Looking at the video, that's likely to have plastic to plastic seams all over the place. Get a nylon guitar pick and try stressing it locally and seeing if it shifts.
If you can get under the head at all, lifting it while unscrewing using a screwdriver might get you in, but if it's recessed, you might be out of luck getting in that way.
Edit: Looking at the video, that's likely to have plastic to plastic seams all over the place. Get a nylon guitar pick and try stressing it locally and seeing if it shifts.
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Screws into plastic often do that. Even one of my Pandoras did. I got the Pandora screws out with some wiggling, but I think there have been other items where I had to resort to more destructive methods.
Drilling into the centre of the X breaks the head off the screw allowing the case to be opened, but might also take the plastic that was holding the screw head; and then you have a metal screw stem stuck into plastic, and good luck ever getting that out without making a huge hole
. No good if you want to put the thing back together the same way! I think I ended up with a sticky tape repair on whatever it was.
On "wiggling": If the case can be moved a little bit after turning the screw, then maybe keep turning it while pulling on the case with various different amounts of force...
Drilling into the centre of the X breaks the head off the screw allowing the case to be opened, but might also take the plastic that was holding the screw head; and then you have a metal screw stem stuck into plastic, and good luck ever getting that out without making a huge hole
. No good if you want to put the thing back together the same way! I think I ended up with a sticky tape repair on whatever it was.On "wiggling": If the case can be moved a little bit after turning the screw, then maybe keep turning it while pulling on the case with various different amounts of force...
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levi
Still fresh, damnit!
Hmm, yes it's possible to round out the heads, but using my static screwdrivers I've never done that by accident*. If you were using some motorised set then maybe it's possible to do it accidentally, I wouldn't know.
If you haven't done that then the screw should at least advance, although it may end up trapped in the recess that it slots into. Or, if you pushed down super hard and ended up deforming the plastic around the threads, it should still be possible to pull the screw out by lifting the case edge.
* I did that after a lot of effort on a couple of my Pandora screws that seemed to get trapped in the tunnel to such a degree that I couldn't turn them to advance them without applying enough torque to deform the head. In the end I drilled them out and replaced them.
If you haven't done that then the screw should at least advance, although it may end up trapped in the recess that it slots into. Or, if you pushed down super hard and ended up deforming the plastic around the threads, it should still be possible to pull the screw out by lifting the case edge.
* I did that after a lot of effort on a couple of my Pandora screws that seemed to get trapped in the tunnel to such a degree that I couldn't turn them to advance them without applying enough torque to deform the head. In the end I drilled them out and replaced them.
Thanks for the suggestions! I've seen the occasional screw-into-plastic not want to come-out, but usually some coaxing or pressure gets the job done. Never seen 10 screws do this though. I can get a 'pick' under the edge of the case but it does not pop off...
I did actually mean screws that turn without coming out. And I have read that it's possible to drill out screws in a replaceable fashion, but I guess I didn't manage it! Can't even remember what the thing was. I guess it was a cheap one and I didn't care that much.
