20*C Cooler, and now with water resistance!
- Thread starter Asaggynoodle
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Asaggynoodle
Long Term Lurker
I think to start, I'm just going to wire them to a rail, but as thing progress and I figure out how the GPIO works, I might weasle in something that does PWM based on CPU temp to set fan speed. There are 3 pin versions for all of these fans.
It might be a sacrileg for some of the still waiting Pyra Preeorderers, but on the other side, these Modding Reports are quite entertaining, and remind on the early days of the Community, some are putting a USB HUB in there GP2X or something..
Or when i opened up my Pandora to fix the Shoulderbutton (which was actually quite simple).. and nobody dit moan because i opened up my own Toy..
Other "Toys" dosnt let you simply screw open, and you lost the Warranty..
Or when i opened up my Pandora to fix the Shoulderbutton (which was actually quite simple).. and nobody dit moan because i opened up my own Toy..
Other "Toys" dosnt let you simply screw open, and you lost the Warranty..
Asaggynoodle
Long Term Lurker
Would love to do that with the LCD! Could put some cool radio/SDR receiver dongles in there off one of these:
I just hope these projects inspire people to want to get involved in the Pyra platform and community; an "adult rubrics cube" if you will.
Once we get full case models, and schematics, I've already considered having a copper bottom shell case CNC'd. Might cost me $1-200 for a one off run, but would be pretty cool.
Anyways, I've thrown a mockup at my current setup together. There will be a "slight" amount of material removed from the case, but that's mainly going to be the baffling/structural channels. The plastic on this thing is so thick, I have a hard time believing that it will make much of a difference. I might just drill lots of small holes in them too. Either way, it should be pretty easy, but is needed as those cellularize the airflow, and we need little restriction outside of the heatsink itself. We want as much air cycling in and out of the device as possible.
There will also be a downward facing inlet for the left blower fan, and a slit for the exhaust on the opposite side of the device. Then a helper fan in between the USB ports/heatsinks to create as much pressure and flow as possible.
Not much I can do on that right side baffle, as it has the screw there.. technically I could cut out the screw funnel, but I'm not sure if that's the best solution yet..
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What schematics do you mean ? They're linked from the wiki. Maybe you want masks or gerber files or something ? Or the same but more up to date?
Also, interesting work. I don't think I could replicate it, too clumsy, but keep it up.
Also, interesting work. I don't think I could replicate it, too clumsy, but keep it up.
Asaggynoodle
Long Term Lurker
I have no idea how I didn't see that, thank you for mentioning that. I'd love to have a gerber file of the PCB, that way I could print out a mask on paper to cut a heatsink with and measure properly!!
There are pads for an 8 pin SOT package that's unpopulated on the PCB I've been eyeing up, it would amazing to see where those pins are routed to.
Git1
Very Active Member
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No sacrilege felt here mate. Although I only recently signed up, I've followed these pages for years, as I love these kind of 'people-power projects' to take back the internet and computing.
I hoped to order a unit a couple of years ago, but unfortunately life led my fortunes in a different direction.
Now, I'm just loving hearing about the success of ED's endevours, and the enginuity of the people that are helping transform the vision into a reality.
There are a lot of stuff Early Preeorderers do to there Pyra whyle other still wait..
Im no expetation: I carry my Pyra in my Pocket every day, its gets hot under a Bed Cover, the Case gets pressure when i carry a big Palette or something, and when i had this E-Bike Incidence, i think it was the Pyra that causes this Damage to my Leg.. when the Leg came between Pyra, E-Bike Frame and the Street..
Im no expetation: I carry my Pyra in my Pocket every day, its gets hot under a Bed Cover, the Case gets pressure when i carry a big Palette or something, and when i had this E-Bike Incidence, i think it was the Pyra that causes this Damage to my Leg.. when the Leg came between Pyra, E-Bike Frame and the Street..
An unpopulated SOT package ? What can that be ? The tiler chip that was made redundant by some contribution ? I wish I remembered who to credit now... 8 pin sound like too few for a tiler but what do I know...
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Tiler chip would have lived on the PCB board that sits behind the LCD screen.
Can't say for sure yet, but there was an abandoned idea to have a similar audio system as the Pandora it shows X'd out in some revisions of the schematics, I think the board was designed to try both configurations, but if I recall from conversations the other audio circuitry just wouldn't work out.
If i remember correctly, at first they wantet to have this Tiler Chip on the LCD Board, but then they figured out that the CPU Omap also have this funktion (TILER), so they ditnt put the Chip in but now there might be a space for it..
I ditnt opened my Pyra and i want open the LID Part, as its too difficult for me..
Or maybe whe can say: Open Up is quite Easy, but to close it so that it continue to work might be on another sheet of paper..
I ditnt opened my Pyra and i want open the LID Part, as its too difficult for me..
Or maybe whe can say: Open Up is quite Easy, but to close it so that it continue to work might be on another sheet of paper..
levi
Still fresh, damnit!
Yes, according to my recollection the original solution was termed the rotation chip. Tiler is part of the OMAP chip as far as I know, and eliminates the need to have that chip. So there was no tiler chip, tiler is the solution to needing to use that chip.
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Yeah I blanked on that, which is funny I spent a good deal of time playing with the TILER features on the OMAP5 Devboard.
Although it's a shame the rotator chip didn't pan out as there is a little bit of an overhead with TILER, and essentially CPU free scaling would have been a nice feature.
Although it's a shame the rotator chip didn't pan out as there is a little bit of an overhead with TILER, and essentially CPU free scaling would have been a nice feature.
mrpalmtop
Very Active Member
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- Mar 14, 2014
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This is an interesting project but I really don't understand why you would want to have a fan and lots of holes in a pocket device that frequently is exposed to the elements.
The idea of having a fan accidentally putting pocket lint into a motherboard is pretty undesirable from my standpoint.
TeDaDeS
Forum Addict!
You would never know for sure if you didn't try. And when you do find a flaw, you can try to improve. Eventually you might find out what the best solution is.
I wouldn't expose my handheld to the elements much anyway, I don't expect the Pyra to be weather proof. And it's clear opening up the unit, which would be required for cleaning, isn't a problem for Asaggynoodle.
If you use the Pyra mostly indoors and it goes up to 2GHz, you might find this trade-off not that bad.
Asaggynoodle
Long Term Lurker
The Pyra, as I've stated earlier.. to me is an adult mental gymnastics device. Break things, fix things, improve things, play with it, etc. It's a dream machine for people who love to tinker, and having the rare privilege of owning one of these devices, I intend to leave something for the preorders or something fun to keep them interested in while they wait thier turn.
Anyways, I haven't figured out the 3/3.3v source yet for the fans, but... I now have this!
I managed to break the audio on my OS installation, so I'm now in the process of copying over all my files and reflashing.. though, this time I put the image on my 128GB Sandisk Extreme Pro SD card, and used that as a bootable SD install.. holy cow is that faster than the eMMC. Looks like SD technology has come a long way since 2012's NAND! I might consider using the SD going forward as the OS drive. I'd like to try those new 300MB/s SD cards, but man are they are crazy expensive.
I cut all the baffles out of the bottom Case, God that plastic is hard to work with. You can't snip, or trim, it's like glass. One snip and a 2 inch crack with show up in the plastic. So I dedicated a soldering iron tip to melting out the areas. Not too bad, but it's a mess.
From my initial testing, I will say, passively, the new heatsink is sufficient to essentially run at 1.5Ghz pretty much indefinitely.
Progress is being made!
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Letalis Sonus
Advanced Member
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The bus is limited to 104 MB/s. UHS-II changed the physical interface by introducing a new set of contacts and lowering the signal levels, that's simply not supported. Ironically, eMMC has a faster interface because it uses an 8bit bus instead of the 4bit bus of UHS-I SD cards.
There are proprietary extensions that increased the bandwidth of UHS-I up to 180 MB/s, but I doubt the OMAP supports any of them.
spud42
Very Active Member
those heatsinks look good for thermal mass but you wont get much airflow through them. I doubt those fans have enough static pressure to get enough flow to transfer heat to the air and get it out of the case quickly.
Asaggynoodle
Long Term Lurker
One can dream.. even if we are limited via physical bandwidth, I'd hope one of the high end UHS-1 cards would have a much higher IOPS memory chip. So things like random reads and writes would still be substantially improved hopefully.. who knows.
One can try, but I've been pretty surprised with what I can do just blowing air into the USB ports. It's better than nothing, by a huge margin.. because nothing means the device throttles down to 250Mhz and becomes unusable until it cools down.
So far everything has met or exceeded my expectations on this project. I don't think the fans will be any less. As I've mentioned earlier, until I have STL files or models of the case, I can't have a copper bottom Case CNC'd. So this is my route!
