I Fixed It Again!!! And This Time For Good!!

[Drewus]

Hello again,

Sorry to constantly become a nuisance on these boards, but as some of you may be aware i have been trying to fix a dead GP32 BLU+ for the past week. I initially thought i'd fixed it, posted a message declaring so, and then retracted my accomplishment when i discovered the screen started fading away after about a minute of use.

But this time it is fixed for good. And all thanks to Trooper who kindly opened his BLU and took a photo for my reference.
A via (hole in the PCB which links to other components) had been damaged when the unit initially fried, and so i had no way of tracking it to where the problem could be. I managed to track down a faulty inductor thanks to Troopers picture, and once it was replaced the screen no longer fades!!

So i'd like to give a big thanks to Trooper for his assistance. And i'd also like to re-state my initial claim that this is proof that fried GP32's can be fixed, as long as you have some soldering skill.

If ANYONE is interested in repairing their dead GP32's, then i would be glad to help. I've learnt alot during this experience, and i can even provide you with my own reference photo's and instructions on how to fix it. Just as long as you have the right equipment (fine tip pencil soldering iron) and some soldering skill.

Thanks again guys.

 

[trooper]

[Blushes]

Your too kind.

[/Blushes]

I`m just glad to be of some help and glad you finally got it fixed, I bet your relieved.

Just out of curiosity, Where are you based ?. It`s just that i have a dead Nlu GP32 that i fried (totally by accident :rolleyes when i connected the power adaptor with reverse polarity. I`d only had it a month or two by then and wasn`t used to the centre negative polarity arrangment as most things are centre positive.

Trooper

 

[DaveC]

[Blushes]

Your too kind.

[/Blushes]

I`m just glad to be of some help and glad you finally got it fixed, I bet your relieved.

Just out of curiosity, Where are you based ?. It`s just that i have a dead Nlu GP32 that i fried (totally by accident :rolleyes when i connected the power adaptor with reverse polarity. I`d only had it a month or two by then and wasn`t used to the centre negative polarity arrangment as most things are centre positive.

Trooper

​

I think there is a diode that usually fries in there when the polarity is reversed. I remember someone talking about it here. do a search on "diode" on these boards and you may find what you need.

 

[Drewus]

[Blushes]

Your too kind.

[/Blushes]

I`m just glad to be of some help and glad you finally got it fixed, I bet your relieved.

Just out of curiosity, Where are you based ?. It`s just that i have a dead Nlu GP32 that i fried (totally by accident :rolleyes when i connected the power adaptor with reverse polarity. I`d only had it a month or two by then and wasn`t used to the centre negative polarity arrangment as most things are centre positive.

Trooper

​

I'm located in Australia. If you dont mind paying for the postage fee i'd be happy to take a look at your NLU and hopefully fix it.
If you pay for postage (to and from) and throw in another 5 bucks for component cost, that's all i'd ask.

 

[Drewus]

I think there is a diode that usually fries in there when the polarity is reversed. I remember someone talking about it here. do a search on "diode" on these boards and you may find what you need.

​

Correct, the first component to fry is the diode linked directly to the power input/battery compartment.
However, the severity of the power surge can cause further problems. Like in my case the surge was large enough to cause a capacitor to fry (which also melted the via located directly next to it) and the solder pad under an inductor to completely turn to liquid therefore causing the inductor to crack in half.

Luckily from what i have been able to obtain from other messages that people have posted (from various boards) all of the problems in relation to a power surge/wrong polarity are all restricted to the one specific area of the GP32's circuit board. Therefore making the process alot easier to solve.

I'd say i had the extreme end of the surge problem, where i had multiple components ruined. However some people have been lucky and only had the diode fry.
I'd say the most extreme thing that could potentially happen from a power surge is that the LTPG chip (located right next to the diode that dies) could also fry. The chip seems to control initial voltage inputs to all of the major components (screen, sound, memory, etc) and uses a series of inductors and resistors in order to filter out the current.
However, the chip is atleast protected somewhat by the diode and capacitors leading up to it, so you'd really have to give her some power in order to damage it.

Now that i have finally fixed the GP32, i realise how easy it really is to diagnose the problem and fix it. I'm not saying i can guarantee a fix for a fried GP32, because that would hold me liable if i couldn't fix one, however i reckon i could stand a reasonable chance at fixing a GP32 that has suffered a voltage surge from here on.

Like i said before, if anyone is thinking of attempting a fix themselves, i'd be happy to offer advice.

And trooper, If you could possibly open up your dead NLU, and take a nice close up photo (and well lit) of the same area i asked you to take a photo of before (between the speaker plug and the power adapter input) i might be able to give you some indication of what needs fixing.

Thanks.

 

[finty]

I'll buy the NLU off you trooper, what do ya say?

 

[Aiken]

Please take a look at this NLU fried by AC adaptor.

- It does not power using the AC
- It DO boot using batteries (boot music sounds, but no screen signal)
- I accidentally noticed the D11 diode is VERY hot when the pcb is powered!

It's very probable that i need to change D11 diode, BUT does this fix the screen not receiving signal problem, or is a different problem?

Which diode for D11 should i bought at shop?? i have not electronics knowledge but i think enought soldering skills to replace it

I let you a photo of the pcb so if you see another unusual thing

http://www.gp32games.com/Dcp_0700.jpg

Aiken

 

[Drewus]

Please take a look at this NLU fried by AC adaptor.

- It does not power using the AC
- It DO boot using batteries (boot music sounds, but no screen signal)
- I accidentally noticed the D11 diode is VERY hot when the pcb is powered!

It's very probable that i need to change D11 diode, BUT does this fix the screen not receiving signal problem, or is a different problem?

Which diode for D11 should i bought at shop?? i have not electronics knowledge but i think enought soldering skills to replace it

I let you a photo of the pcb so if you see another unusual thing

http://www.gp32games.com/Dcp_0700.jpg

Aiken

​

Hi Aiken,

I would first suggest you replace the diode at D11, as this is the very first component to become damaged during an AC surge.

Replace it with a 3.6V Zener diode. You can find these at any electronics store. You may not find a 3.6V Zener diode which looks indentical to the one you are removing and may instead look like one of the following:
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploade...tLarge_2807.jpg
Dont worry about it as it performs exactly the same basic function.

Make sure you solder the diode in the right way. If you notice on the diode you are going to replace, it has a black stripe on the right side of it. When you replace it with a new one, just make sure you have the new one installed with it's black stripe on the right aswell.

After you have replaced it, then please report back to me of what happens and we'll go from there.

Good Luck!

 

[Quiest]

Hey Drewus, since you documented your repairing process, how about making a tutorial with pictures and components needed, etc?

 

[Aiken]

I would first suggest you replace the diode at D11, as this is the very first component to become damaged during an AC surge.

Replace it with a 3.6V Zener diode. You can find these at any electronics store. You may not find a 3.6V Zener diode which looks indentical to the one you are

After you have replaced it, then please report back to me of what happens and we'll go from there.

Ok. I'll try to replace it and i'll let you know about

Aiken

 

[Drewus]

Hey Drewus, since you documented your repairing process, how about making a tutorial with pictures and components needed, etc?

​

Hi Quiest,

I was thinking about doing this actually, setting up a webpage with a tutorial. However the only problem is that each persons specific problem could be completely different to the last and therefore the tutorial would have to cover every single aspect of "what if". It just wouldn't be feasable to do it.

I could however set up a tutorial on how to open the unit and replace the diode, as it fries for everyone who kills their GP32.

 

[Skop]

Bravo, Trooper.

I salute you

 

[pea]

Hi Drewus,

Unless you specifically want to do it, I am happy to host your tutorial on my GP32 site if you want? I'm a NZ cousin just across the ditch We are only enemies when our teams play each other at Rugby. ok, so best wait till after the super 12

http://www.pea.co.nz/gp32/

I already have a few mods and other bits and pieces (mostly linked):

http://www.pea.co.nz/gp32/mods.php

All better to keep as much of it as possible in the same place, I say. I'd quite like to start a detailed 'repairs' section on the site

 

[Drewus]

Hi Drewus,

Unless you specifically want to do it, I am happy to host your tutorial on my GP32 site if you want? I'm a NZ cousin just across the ditch We are only enemies when our teams play each other at Rugby. ok, so best wait till after the super 12

http://www.pea.co.nz/gp32/

I already have a few mods and other bits and pieces (mostly linked):

http://www.pea.co.nz/gp32/mods.php

All better to keep as much of it as possible in the same place, I say. I'd quite like to start a detailed 'repairs' section on the site

​

Sounds really good pea, thanks for the offer.
It might have to wait until this coming weekend before i delve into it though. I'm working and studying all week, so i wont really have time to compile a detailed repairs page until Saturday.

I'll get back to you at the end of the week.

Thanks again.

 

[pea]

No problem. Don't worry about html, just a word doc and some photos is fine. I can format it up.

BTW, I have purchased www.gp32.co.nz now, so update your bookmarks
www.pea.co.nz/gp32/ is now www.gp32.co.nz

 

[pea]

Hello all,

Thanks to Drew for the tutorial. Anyone with a broken unit, find the tutorial on my GP32 site in the 'Mods and Repairs' section:
http://www.gp32.co.nz/

Or directly:
http://www.gp32.co.nz/repair_diode.php

 

[Drewus]

Hello all,

Thanks to Drew for the tutorial. Anyone with a broken unit, find the tutorial on my GP32 site in the 'Mods and Repairs' section:
http://www.gp32.co.nz/

Or directly:
http://www.gp32.co.nz/repair_diode.php

​

Glad i could help, hopefully it provides useful for anyone looking to repair a GP32 they have fried due to polarity/voltage problems

 

[Aiken]

Hi Quiest,
I was thinking about doing this actually, setting up a webpage with a tutorial. However the only problem is that each persons specific problem could be completely different to the last and therefore the tutorial would have to cover every single aspect of "what if". It just wouldn't be feasable to do it.
I could however set up a tutorial on how to open the unit and replace the diode, as it fries for everyone who kills their GP32.

​

Hi again!! :unsure: After a long while, i'm trying again to fix a fried gp32

- I have replaced the 3.6v Zener diode.

Previous to the replacement, the old diode got really HOT! so i supposed that was
the problem.

After replacing the Zener diode, the gp32 do not boot yet Now the "on" led lights red (before, it does poor, weak and not very stable (like loosing the power).


So now, I have checked ALL THE COMPONENTS MARKED IN RED in the photo GET REALLY HOT!!!! :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:

What do you think? Any idea?
Thanks, Aiken

 

[Drewus]

Hi Aiken,

Are you saying that after replacing the diode, the GP32 doesn't start, but the power light comes on?
If this is the case, does the backlight come on aswell, and does anything appear on the screen?

You have definately installed the diode properly, otherwise the power light wouldn't come on at all. So don't worry about touching the diode again, it's all ok.

This means that the fault would be related to another component, and my best guess would be a capacitor. How exactly did the unit fry? was it an incorrect polarity problem that caused it to die?
Also are there any signs of burn marks near any of the components on the lower left of the board?

My first suggestion would be to get a multimeter and test the Ohm readings on the capacitor labelled (on the board) C57 and the other one at C67.
You could also test the Ohm's on the Inductor labelled L1.

Once you have done this, could you post your findings here and i'll see if i can help you further.

Thanks

 

[Aiken]

Are you saying that after replacing the diode, the GP32 doesn't start, but the power light comes on?
If this is the case, does the backlight come on aswell, and does anything appear on the screen?

A friend tried to put a NintendoDS battery in the gp32, and his words were "the battery blew!" but there are no signs of burn in any of the components, just they get very hooot!

Before replacing D11 i got the screen lighting for once. Only light, not boot. But the
light switch on/off holding the select button!

After replacing D11 i get no light on the screen, but screen receives some power because it shows some movement (no light, but some black lines)


I have not too much experience with the multimeter, if you could give me some step by step about have i to read it with the console powered or not? Just to put the multimeter bars one each pad of the capacitor? In which mode should i put the multimeter? Sorry

THAAANK a LOT for your help, Drew,
Aiken